The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (14 Viewers)

[Magic Spool Bus]

Howdy Gents! At this point I'm no stranger to fiddling with these pumps, however recently in the last year I have went to a slightly larger turbo than most do and have gotten the bug to find a sweet spot for fueling. It runs well as it is but my EGTs are pretty cold most of the time 450-550F pre turbo cruising and its rather difficult to even get the thing to hit 1100F pulling an incline under substantial load so this has me wanting to add some fuel in different areas than at peak boost. This turbo likes to operate around 4-8psi under normal flat driving conditions and does not come on hard until 2000 rpm ish. Because EGT is so cool here it has been a back and forth messing with spring tension attempting to get the EGT up a bit in the cruising range at 4-8psi.

My fuel screw is already in a lot and I cant adjust my idle down anymore so this has to be left out of the picture. My issue that maybe someone can expand on is when I go to as lighter spring under the diaphragm in an attempt to add more fuel earlier under 10psi boost pressure the truck is much more sluggish than when I have a a lot of tension under the diaphragm. My brain can not comprehend this. If I'm adding more fuel down low I would expect a little more heat and power there as well. There isn't much smoke to be seen either.

I have this fancy air regulator so that I can fine tune the spring tension and see exactly where I am on the follower pin at a given PSI but there really isn't any info out there that goes into that much detail in tuning the spring preload with such precision. Sure G Turbo says get the pin moving around 3psi if tuning for 25psi max but at what psi should I hit max fuel from the follower pin? 10-15-20psi?

I'm not sure some of this generic info on tuning works when the turbine is larger and only runs 7psi on average or I'm asking something from the setup that it may not be capable of.

Any wisdom is greatly appreciated.

 

[KiwiDingo]

Go for a drive with the pin completely removed and you'll know straight away if it's more low down/off boost fueling you need. Then you can decide next step

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

Go for a drive with the pin completely removed and you'll know straight away if it's more low down/off boost fueling you need. Then you can decide next step

Last time I did that it just made me want to leave the pin out for good I’ll give it a go though with this turbo and see what it feels like.

 

[Beach80]

Howdy Gents! At this point I'm no stranger to fiddling with these pumps, however recently in the last year I have went to a slightly larger turbo than most do and have gotten the bug to find a sweet spot for fueling. It runs well as it is but my EGTs are pretty cold most of the time 450-550F pre turbo cruising and its rather difficult to even get the thing to hit 1100F pulling an incline under substantial load so this has me wanting to add some fuel in different areas than at peak boost. This turbo likes to operate around 4-8psi under normal flat driving conditions and does not come on hard until 2000 rpm ish. Because EGT is so cool here it has been a back and forth messing with spring tension attempting to get the EGT up a bit in the cruising range at 4-8psi.

My fuel screw is already in a lot and I cant adjust my idle down anymore so this has to be left out of the picture. My issue that maybe someone can expand on is when I go to as lighter spring under the diaphragm in an attempt to add more fuel earlier under 10psi boost pressure the truck is much more sluggish than when I have a a lot of tension under the diaphragm. My brain can not comprehend this. If I'm adding more fuel down low I would expect a little more heat and power there as well. There isn't much smoke to be seen either.

I have this fancy air regulator so that I can fine tune the spring tension and see exactly where I am on the follower pin at a given PSI but there really isn't any info out there that goes into that much detail in tuning the spring preload with such precision. Sure G Turbo says get the pin moving around 3psi if tuning for 25psi max but at what psi should I hit max fuel from the follower pin? 10-15-20psi?

I'm not sure some of this generic info on tuning works when the turbine is larger and only runs 7psi on average or I'm asking something from the setup that it may not be capable of.

Any wisdom is greatly appreciated.

Install an AFR meter and that will tell you if you are running lean or rich. To get more fuel you may also need to grind your stock pin or (good luck) find a quality aftermarket aneroid pin. I had a local machine shop make me a pin.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

Install an AFR meter and that will tell you if you are running lean or rich. To get more fuel you may also need to grind your stock pin or (good luck) find a quality aftermarket aneroid pin. I had a local machine shop make me a pin.

I should have been more descriptive in the post. I have AFR gauge and I also have multiple pins. I can obtain max travel on any of the pins avoiding fuel cut. I have the pump setup to its near limit I suppose in terms of the main fuel screw but im more interested in the fine tuning of where and when my max fueling capability comes in. When I say “in” I mean at a certain PSI. If I set spring tension to start moving at 3psi I land at max travel from the pin on the deepest part of the grind around 15psi. My theory is since my turbo is mostly lazy until I get in it hard I would set the pin to move faster with less spring tension and reaching max travel at 10psi would get me creating more heat to drive the turbine a little sooner but for whatever reason my experience is slightly hotter EGT but a more laggy feel to the engine power curve.

So this leads me to many questions. For example should I play with a longer profile pin to where I start adding more fuel at 2-3psi from the compensator and I end at max travel from the pin at peak boost 25psi. Or do I not care about end point and have it adding fuel to max travel of the pin at around 10psi and the rest is in the foot pedal… so the main question here is what is the more optimal way to deliver the fuel with the boost compensator given a turbo that’s a bit lazy below 1800rpm?

Is it a long linear build up to max pin travel out to peak boost or should it be a quicker dump of fuel at a lower psi from the turbo because 1 it’s low on EGT and typically sees 10-12psi max under most normal and slightly excited driving conditions.

I’m wondering if there is some negative effect to the pump and how it delivers fuel if I set the spring tension up to soft and the pin allow full fuel too early… besides the obvious black smoke that can or will occur if it’s too much fuel. I guess to really know I need to just test it more I don’t believe the is any easy question to answer unless it’s someone that tunes these things on a dyno often.

 

[Beach80]

I should have been more descriptive in the post. I have AFR gauge and I also have multiple pins. I can obtain max travel on any of the pins avoiding fuel cut. I have the pump setup to its near limit I suppose in terms of the main fuel screw but im more interested in the fine tuning of where and when my max fueling capability comes in. When I say “in” I mean at a certain PSI. If I set spring tension to start moving at 3psi I land at max travel from the pin on the deepest part of the grind around 15psi. My theory is since my turbo is mostly lazy until I get in it hard I would set the pin to move faster with less spring tension and reaching max travel at 10psi would get me creating more heat to drive the turbine a little sooner but for whatever reason my experience is slightly hotter EGT but a more laggy feel to the engine power curve.

So this leads me to many questions. For example should I play with a longer profile pin to where I start adding more fuel at 2-3psi from the compensator and I end at max travel from the pin at peak boost 25psi. Or do I not care about end point and have it adding fuel to max travel of the pin at around 10psi and the rest is in the foot pedal… so the main question here is what is the more optimal way to deliver the fuel with the boost compensator given a turbo that’s a bit lazy below 1800rpm?

Is it a long linear build up to max pin travel out to peak boost or should it be a quicker dump of fuel at a lower psi from the turbo because 1 it’s low on EGT and typically sees 10-12psi max under most normal and slightly excited driving conditions.

I’m wondering if there is some negative effect to the pump and how it delivers fuel if I set the spring tension up to soft and the pin allow full fuel too early… besides the obvious black smoke that can or will occur if it’s too much fuel. I guess to really know I need to just test it more I don’t believe the is any easy question to answer unless it’s someone that tunes these things on a dyno often.

If your trying to get more out of your injection pump, perhaps upgrade components around it, such as upgraded injectors. Maybe play with timing too. I'm running 20psi on green wheel Gturbo and my pump has plenty ability to deliver fuel past safe EGT levels with stock injectors. My AFR indicates this too. The main fuel screw still has plenty of adjustment left. This leads me to believe you have either extended past the capabilities of your pump or perhaps your pump is in need of a rebuild or injectors aren't working as the should. Fuel delivery could be an issue too.
Do you have an aneroid pin that has a deeper offset from the centerline of the pin at max fueling? This will allow more fuel at top end. It will allow fir a longer slope with a steeper angle. The steeper angle will give you more fuel earlier.

 

[KiwiDingo]

I'm running 20psi on green wheel Gturbo and my pump has plenty ability to deliver fuel past safe EGT levels with stock injectors.

That's really not a hard thing to do with such a tiny turbo. It's very very easy to get unsafe EGT running very little fueling with tiny turbines/housings.

 

[Beach80]

That's really not a hard thing to do with such a tiny turbo. It's very very easy to get unsafe EGT running very little fueling with tiny turbines/housings.

My turbo prefers the term diameter-ly challeged.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

If your trying to get more out of your injection pump, perhaps upgrade components around it, such as upgraded injectors. Maybe play with timing too. I'm running 20psi on green wheel Gturbo and my pump has plenty ability to deliver fuel past safe EGT levels with stock injectors. My AFR indicates this too. The main fuel screw still has plenty of adjustment left. This leads me to believe you have either extended past the capabilities of your pump or perhaps your pump is in need of a rebuild or injectors aren't working as the should. Fuel delivery could be an issue too.
Do you have an aneroid pin that has a deeper offset from the centerline of the pin at max fueling? This will allow more fuel at top end. It will allow fir a longer slope with a steeper angle. The steeper angle will give you more fuel earlier.

I believe you are correct about being past the capability of the pump. All my pins will allow max travel from the pump. Some of them don’t even touch the follower pin at the deepest side of the ramp. The pump was rebuilt a year ago and injectors as well. I get plenty of fuel on the bottom end and top end if I were to floor it. But daily driving mid range power is what I’m trying to improve on. This could be asking too much though

 

[chelo]

I believe you are correct about being past the capability of the pump. All my pins will allow max travel from the pump. Some of them don’t even touch the follower pin at the deepest side of the ramp. The pump was rebuilt a year ago and injectors as well. I get plenty of fuel on the bottom end and top end if I were to floor it. But daily driving mid range power is what I’m trying to improve on. This could be asking too much though

What pin are you currently using? I know you mentioned before trying diffrent ones but have you done your own grind and profile?

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

What pin are you currently using? I know you mentioned before trying diffrent ones but have you done your own grind and profile?

I have 1 pin with my own grind and 2 other pins. 1 from eclipse and one that is known as the power rod. None of them have a fuel cut ramp.

 

[Lo2aY]

This is the fuel pin I got in the pump supplied by Gturbo for my FT.

I'm having excessive smoke and the EGTs fly up. I'm assuming the engine is not getting enough air. So I checked the fuel pin and this is what it looks like.

Not sure if this grind is ok for their turbo?

Drivetrain specs:

1HD-FT
Gturbo
H55F
255/85R16s
4:11 gears

 

[Shrek80]

My guess is the coarseness of that grind is catching the tip of the lower pin at the top of its travel and its stuck on full delivery.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Use a permanent marker to see the travel on that pin. If your off boost cam is set high, and your spring is set to high preload, you may not be getting much change.

The main question I have is if you adjusted the fuel load screw too much? With the FT you should breathe better than the 1HDT so make sure your air intake hoses aren't clogged or collapsing from the suck. I've seen soft hose collapse and restrict airflow with a boosting turbo before

 

[Beach80]

This is the fuel pin I got in the pump supplied by Gturbo for my FT.

I'm having excessive smoke and the EGTs fly up. I'm assuming the engine is not getting enough air. So I checked the fuel pin and this is what it looks like.

Not sure if this grind is ok for their turbo?

Drivetrain specs:

1HD-FT
Gturbo
H55F
255/85R16s
4:11 gears

View attachment 2970556View attachment 2970557View attachment 2970558View attachment 2970559View attachment 2970560

Wow, that grind is rough, not even done on a bench grinder, or a lathe

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

This is the fuel pin I got in the pump supplied by Gturbo for my FT.

I'm having excessive smoke and the EGTs fly up. I'm assuming the engine is not getting enough air. So I checked the fuel pin and this is what it looks like.

Not sure if this grind is ok for their turbo?

Drivetrain specs:

1HD-FT
Gturbo
H55F
255/85R16s
4:11 gears

View attachment 2970556View attachment 2970557View attachment 2970558View attachment 2970559View attachment 2970560

Which turbo from G Turbo are you running? If its the green wheel then you will always be plagued with high EGT's if the fuel is wound up.

s*** grind though either way. You could try smoothing it out a bit as someone else mentioned it could be getting hung up. Could also try increasing spring tension on the star wheel or adding some shims to limit max travel of the pin. Many different ways to skin this cat.

 

[torfab]

I’d start by smoothing out that grind, it’s pretty gross.

 

[KiwiDingo]

I'm having excessive smoke and the EGTs fly up.

Sounds like the typical compliant from those I know that run a gturbo It's always going to occur when you run such a small hotside on a turbo

 

[Lo2aY]

Thanks for your input. the grind is terrible but I was more concerned with the profile. I will for sure clean it up. If you drive the truck with this fuel pin. You can feel it getting sticky. Which is explained by the terrible grinds on the fuel pin.

My guess is the coarseness of that grind is catching the tip of the lower pin at the top of its travel and its stuck on full delivery.

Yup exactly. I think once I clean up the grind it won't partial stick.

Use a permanent marker to see the travel on that pin. If your off boost cam is set high, and your spring is set to high preload, you may not be getting much change.

The main question I have is if you adjusted the fuel load screw too much? With the FT you should breathe better than the 1HDT so make sure your air intake hoses aren't clogged or collapsing from the suck. I've seen soft hose collapse and restrict airflow with a boosting turbo before

You can kinda see the travel of the pin. It has a faint mark from the picture I attached. Off boost, the truck is sluggish. No power So I'd really like to improve this.

My concern was the air box. So I have an HPD top mount intercooler and factory airbox going to the safari snorkel. I'm hearing this will cause restrictions for air. But I can't imagine it collapsing the air hose from the snorkel. I did disconnect the inlet side between snorkel and air filter and no difference in EGT spike. The turbo is a green wheel with Gturbo supplied injectors. I think the injectors are 30+

Which turbo from G Turbo are you running? If its the green wheel then you will always be plagued with high EGT's if the fuel is wound up.

s*** grind though either way. You could try smoothing it out a bit as someone else mentioned it could be getting hung up. Could also try increasing spring tension on the star wheel or adding some shims to limit max travel of the pin. Many different ways to skin this cat.

Green Wheel. The pump I got from them was sourced from ADS Injection. I'll smooth out the pin and mark it with paint and let you guys know.

What do you think about the fueling profile though?

I wish it had adjustment on the fuel pin like the stock one. I guess the only fueling adjustment I can adjust is the main fuel screw?

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

Thanks for your input. the grind is terrible but I was more concerned with the profile. I will for sure clean it up. If you drive the truck with this fuel pin. You can feel it getting sticky. Which is explained by the terrible grinds on the fuel pin.



Yup exactly. I think once I clean up the grind it won't partial stick.




You can kinda see the travel of the pin. It has a faint mark from the picture I attached. Off boost, the truck is sluggish. No power So I'd really like to improve this.

My concern was the air box. So I have an HPD top mount intercooler and factory airbox going to the safari snorkel. I'm hearing this will cause restrictions for air. But I can't imagine it collapsing the air hose from the snorkel. I did disconnect the inlet side between snorkel and air filter and no difference in EGT spike. The turbo is a green wheel with Gturbo supplied injectors. I think the injectors are 30+




Green Wheel. The pump I got from them was sourced from ADS Injection. I'll smooth out the pin and mark it with paint and let you guys know.

What do you think about the fueling profile though?

I wish it had adjustment on the fuel pin like the stock one. I guess the only fueling adjustment I can adjust is the main fuel screw?

I would be less concerned about the profile and more concerned about the lumpy grind. The profile isn’t so much the problem, you can alter pin travel with shims to limit peak boost fueling for EGT and you can also effect pin travel with the star wheel for better low down response. What I mean here is if you are sluggish off idle either it’s catching the bumpy pin grind on the way down or your spring tension is so stiff your pin isn’t traveling deep enough to allow more fuel early.

The green wheel is tiny just sneezing in it makes 20psi. If I were you I would first see if I can limit max boost fuel with shims as to not get in the deepest part of the grind for EGT control and I would soften my spring tension OR adjust my cam plate on top to start at a deeper part of the pin for better response.

Chances are you can easily fix your response off boost but EGT will still be hard to control higher in RPM and high load due to the green wheels turbine side. Which will lead you taking some out on the main fuel screw and having to start this process over slightly.

With a built pump and injectors you honestly should have went with a larger turbo.

Cheers