Wow glad the hood worked out, I am still confused though, your Pig goes 60mph??
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Ahhh yes… the inevitable knuckle rebuild. Cruiser Outfitters has all the parts you’d need and any nut and bolt hardware you might need to replace can be gotten fromSince I’m in limbo on the hood waiting for it’s turn to be painted and few small repairs to be done, I figured I’d go to knuckle college today…
I’m sure glad I decided to tear into this. The spindle bearings were super notchy. Lots of rags!!
Going to look into tool options.
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I watched the fella do a reseal on “The 40 channel” and he just removed and added shims at will. From the bottom stack. Still not sure why that couldn’t be done for tight knuckle.Diff soup! I wish I could tell you the centering tool was going to be satisfying…it’s a convoluted & frustrating process unfortunately. Just have to keep at it, if you’ve got an idea of where it was shim-wise to start it’s helpful. Otherwise you’ll be pretty good at pulling the trunnion pins to muck with shims![]()
When I took it apart the spindle bearings were really tight. Clicking into detents of a worn race. Replaced bearings and cone washers torqued to spec and still to tight. Can a shim not be swapped for a thicker one to reduce tightness and move on?It’s just the pins have to be pulled into the bearings, which also seats the cone washers. You want all of it there for the measurements…
ExactlyWhen I took it apart the spindle bearings were really tight. Clicking into detents of a worn race. Replaced bearings and cone washers torqued to spec and still to tight. Can a shim not be swapped for a thicker one to reduce tightness and move on?
That’s what I wanted to know. Adding .010 or .020 to the bottom doesn’t seem like it’s changing the centering of the axle. Maybe I’m wrong.Exactly
Ive also seen folks mention the shims changes the wear on the inner axle shaft seal. That part I don’t follow.