Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

I like the smaller hurricane unit that you route hoses to. I know it is nothing like stock, but it gives you that knee room back for the passenger.

In Vera, I got rid of the hump in the firewall, so I have more depth to raise the unit up higher and it will sit about flush with the dash, maybe back a little bit.

@tornadoalleycruiser just put the standard units in his and it sits lower and sticks out more.

 

[Tank5]

I like the smaller hurricane unit that you route hoses to. I know it is nothing like stock, but it gives you that knee room back for the passenger.

In Vera, I got rid of the hump in the firewall, so I have more depth to raise the unit up higher and it will sit about flush with the dash, maybe back a little bit.

View attachment 2919587
@tornadoalleycruiser just put the standard units in his and it sits lower and sticks out more.


View attachment 2919586

That was one of the other units I was considering but I didn't like how far it stuck out, combined with the idea that I would have to put the vents in the dash, I opted for what I have. Every option seems like a compromise, so I am thinking I will use what I have and if it really bothers me over time I can revisit the other units and vents in the dash. I figure it is easier to add the vents later than deleting them.

 

[2fpower]

I too am not sure about the dash holes either.. especially in Vera with the old layout. I am going to put the vents just below my dash, using the same pods, but make a small bracket to hold them and direct air out and down mostly. Since the top will be off, I think that will be decent. They should be hidden for the most part at eye level.

 

[Tank5]

I too am not sure about the dash holes either.. especially in Vera with the old layout. I am going to put the vents just below my dash, using the same pods, but make a small bracket to hold them and direct air out and down mostly. Since the top will be off, I think that will be decent. They should be hidden for the most part at eye level.

View attachment 2919786

That is not a bad idea. I was considered the same thing (mounting the vents under the dash) I just couldn't find something that appealed to me. I might not have spent enough time searching out all the options, so I will be interested to see how your turn out. One of the features I really like about the early cruisers is the ribbed dash and I am at the point that I really had to focus on and make some decisions for how I want it to look. I have a few projects going on in the background that if they work out will cement the path forward. I will share after they are developed a little more.

 

[Tank5]

I continued mocking up the Heater/AC unit and found that 3 of the mounting points for the unit don’t align with the identified oem bolt holes. The instructions show 9 mounting points for the unit. Three of them you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the glove box and 6 others use oem mounting points with only one needing altered per the directions. I found three of the oem mounting points don’t line up at all. I will have to make some modifications to the mounts but it should all work out. I am guessing that there are slight differences between the early and later 40 series firewalls that place these oem mounting points in different places.

The unit is all mounted up and in. I need to figure out where the lines will run and the dryer will mount next.

With the heater and AC unit in I found my options for running the engine harness were pretty limited. The only place it seemed it could work was high on the passenger corner into the glove box. I ran it through there and started playing with some ideas for cleaning up what was in the engine bay. The relay and fuse box that came on the harness is configured opposite of what I need to mount it nicely in the passenger side. I may end up rewiring the relay box to something that better fits my mounting needs or/and move it into the cab.

 

[samc2447]

I like the smaller hurricane unit that you route hoses to. I know it is nothing like stock, but it gives you that knee room back for the passenger.

There are compromises to each of the units for sure. But I can tell you that unless you are over 7ft tall, your knees are not coming anywhere near the under dash unit. Yes, it visually appears that it would impact them, but when you sit in a truck that has that unit your knees are nowhere near it.

Like anything when restoring an old truck there are compromises when you want to add amenities that were not offered stock or that have better performance than stock.

 

[Tank5]

After pointing out that some of the mounting holes didn’t line up with the brackets I wanted to share what I did to correct it in the event it is helpful to someone else.

There were three holes that did not lineup as the directions showed. The first one I modified was the mount on the back top of the blower motor. This mount is supposed to use one of the oem bolt holes from the top of the oem blower mount. This would never have lined up on my 45; on my cab this bolt hole was located inside the glove box, so there is sheet metal in the way and I was not cutting a hole to make it happen. I simply cut the top of this bracket off and by doing that it allowed the smaller bracket mounting point under the glove box to line up, so this one cut sorta solved two problems. I am going with one less mounting point.

The last bracket that needed modified attach to the firewall using one of the oem heater mounting points. There was no way to get the slotted bracket whole to line up. I marked where it lined up in the firewall compared to the oem bolt hole. I cut the end of the bracket off drilled a new slotted hole and it worked out fine.

Fitting the unit was not difficult outside of these slight adjustments.

 

[Tank5]

I got distracted today with seat brackets. I ordered PRP seats back in April of 2021. I received them in August but have had a difficult time time finding some seat slides I liked to mount them on. I did not like most of the after market options. I found a set of TJ slides in the junk yard and they seemed built well enough but what I liked about them was the handle for the seat slide operation was offset toward the center of the vehicle and it connected to both rails instead of just one side.

I then spent about 4 months looking forward the PRP specific seat mounts to pair with the slides I had but they just weren’t in stock, so I ordered their universal mounts and made them fit. The universal mounts arrived today which was the last piece I needed to mount the seats.

The seats seem real nice for just sitting in them in the garage. I am excited to have them in, so that I can move on to determining the trans and tcase shifter locations as well as the center console.
Kinda sad that the stock tcase shifter location that lined up with the trans cover won’t work I think it sits back too far.

 

[Tank5]

I have spent months off and on trying figure out what I wanted to use for a center console. I initially wanted something that had a vintage look to it but couldn’t find an option I liked, so I found the next best thing and ordered it today. It won’t be here for a little bit but I look forward to fitting it between the seats, so I can find a workable location for the Tcase shifter.

 

[Bripars40]

I continued mocking up the Heater/AC unit and found that 3 of the mounting points for the unit don’t align with the identified oem bolt holes. The instructions show 9 mounting points for the unit. Three of them you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the glove box and 6 others use oem mounting points with only one needing altered per the directions. I found three of the oem mounting points don’t line up at all. I will have to make some modifications to the mounts but it should all work out. I am guessing that there are slight differences between the early and later 40 series firewalls that place these oem mounting points in different places.

The unit is all mounted up and in. I need to figure out where the lines will run and the dryer will mount next.

View attachment 2920289

With the heater and AC unit in I found my options for running the engine harness were pretty limited. The only place it seemed it could work was high on the passenger corner into the glove box. I ran it through there and started playing with some ideas for cleaning up what was in the engine bay. The relay and fuse box that came on the harness is configured opposite of what I need to mount it nicely in the passenger side. I may end up rewiring the relay box to something that better fits my mounting needs or/and move it into the cab.
View attachment 2920290
View attachment 2920291

Yep, I had the same conclusion. I moved my vin plate and ran it through the exact same location.

 

[Robs76fj40]

I have spent months off and on trying figure out what I wanted to use for a center console. I initially wanted something that had a vintage look to it but couldn’t find an option I liked, so I found the next best thing and ordered it today. It won’t be here for a little bit but I look forward to fitting it between the seats, so I can find a workable location for the Tcase shifter

I'm curious to see where you go with this issue. I'm using some Silverado seats and am also struggling with a console solution. I'm kinda at the point now that I'm leaning towards a scratch build, but am starting to get burned out on this project... taking a "winter break" for a few weeks to avoid extra heating costs and regroup mentally...

 

[Tank5]

I'm curious to see where you go with this issue. I'm using some Silverado seats and am also struggling with a console solution. I'm kinda at the point now that I'm leaning towards a scratch build, but am starting to get burned out on this project... taking a "winter break" for a few weeks to avoid extra heating costs and regroup mentally...

I will share my console solution as soon as it arrives. I want to wait until it shows up to make sure it works how I hope it will.

I have found taking some mini brakes through out the project allow me to recollect me thoughts around the various build challenges of the project and it gives me time come up with multiple options to solve each obstacle. The first idea I come up with is not normally not the direction I go. After letting possible solutions marinate for a bit I usually find one I am much happier with.

There is another part of my build that I am currently reworking as I found a new option I am much more excited about. I have been working through the fitment of it now and will post it up after I get farther into it.

My garage is not heated, so when it is real cold I avoid the garage when I can. It is not fun working in the cold, so I avoid it as much as I can to keep the project fun.

 

[Vandal FJ]

I'm in the same boat. I have a complete drivetrain to swap out, and then a wiring harness I want to replace, but it's just too cold!

 

[MOTOV8R]

I wired this up to bring the winter garage temps up. It was $130 open box on Amazon when I got it a couple years ago. I think the wiring for the garage cost almost as much. I can get it up to 60 without much problem. It’s a 3 car garage but this bay is walled off from the other 2.

Required 220V 50A

 

[Tank5]

I wired this up to bring the winter garage temps up. It was $130 open box on Amazon when I got it a couple years ago. I think the wiring for the garage cost almost as much. I can get it up to 60 without much problem. It’s a 3 car garage but this bay is walled off from the other 2.

Required 220V 50A

View attachment 2928383

The problem I have heating my garage is the ceiling is not finished, so all the heat I fill it with goes to the top and vents out before I would benefit from it. The garage needs some finish work, it came that way when we bought the place but I am happy to have it.

 

[Tank5]

My build had come to point I had to decide what I wanted the dash to look like. Originally I had planned to mix old with new such as the steering column, rocker switches for the lockers and filling holes in the dash to do away with the ash tray. Well after thinking it over I decided to try and keep as much of the old school look in the dash as I could.

The 4runner steering column had to go. I had a FJ55 power steering column with the ignition on the column that I felt would be a better fit. I needed a steering wheel to go with it and recalled drooling over the billet steering wheels that @EmanC made. I lucked out and he still had one for sale, so snatched it. It hurt the teat but I could not be happier with it. I love that I can retain the early horn button and the early style steering wheel in a modern 15” package. Emanc did an awesome job building them!

The steering wheel arrived and I found that the off set from the steering wheel cover and mounting location on the wheel were too close. I took the column apart to figure out what I had to do to make it work. Turned out to be an easy solution. The ignition assembly all rides on a bearing set in place on the shaft by two snap rings. In order to create room for the steering wheel to fit I just needed to cut two new snap ring grooves to move the ignition and column assembly back.

I measured a bunch and decided to move the assembly back 22mm. It worked out pretty easy and everything went together as it should.

The column cover I am using to mock up is broken and does not quite sit right behind the steering wheel. When it does there is an 8mm gap between the cover and back of the steering wheel. I may go back and make another set of snap rings grooves 4-5 mm closer to close that gap. For now I am super happy to see it will work out.

 

[Tank5]

I am a little ahead of having pictures but I am also working on an plan to use some oem pull switches with custom knobs to operate the Front, Center, and Rear Lockers. I am planning to swap out the vintage air unit knobs for a custom set that will give the dash a consistent old school look and tie it all together. Still waiting on parts before I will have much more to share regarding switches.

My decision in part to go this route is largely due to products offered by forum members from Mud. I love that this community continues to build and make available these little niche products. Keep it up!!

 

[UZJ40]

I am a little ahead of having pictures but I am also working on an plan to use some oem pull switches with custom knobs to operate the Front, Center, and Rear Lockers. I am planning to swap out the vintage air unit knobs for a custom set that will give the dash a consistent old school look and tie it all together. Still waiting on parts before I will have much more to share regarding switches.

My decision in part to go this route is largely due to products offered by forum members from Mud. I love that this community continues to build and make available these little niche products. Keep it up!!

What switches are you thinking about using for the lockers?

You could use a headlight switch for the F & R lockers... where you pull it out and the first position locks the rear, and the second position locks the front and rear, much like the 80 factory setup. If you wanted independent control over both that wouldn't work though.

 

[EmanC]

Glad the wheel worked out. Awesome that it lines up with the column cover too. If you hit that cover with a blow torch you may be able to get it back to black. That's what you can do with the grip part if it ever fades or gets scratches. A little bit of flame and it'll darken back up.


As for switches, you could probanly source 3 OEM Fog switches if you wanted a true on-off only switch (84162-60010)

 

[Tank5]

What switches are you thinking about using for the lockers?

You could use a headlight switch for the F & R lockers... where you pull it out and the first position locks the rear, and the second position locks the front and rear, much like the 80 factory setup. If you wanted independent control over both that wouldn't work though.

The switches for the front and rear lockers I believe are hazard Fog Light switches. I am not using the Factory 80 series lockers, I am using Harrop/Eaton electric lockers, so their switch function is simpler than the OEM switch. The switch for the center diff locker is going to have to be different. I am not sure which switch I am using for that. I have been working with Toyotamatt on this project and he has not shipped the switches yet. Last we talked I sent him a wiring diagram for the Center Diff in the 80 series, so he could see what was needed from the switch to run that circuit. I have not heard back yet. I am hopeful this idea will work, it all hinges right now on finding a pull switch to run the center diff lock.