Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (7 Viewers)

[4Cruisers]

I'm using a fuse panel from an '81 Toyota mini-truck in my '71 FJ40 build. See my Post #20.466 here:

What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Zjohnsonua]

That harness will be less than half of what you see there by the time you start cutting out the un-used systems (hvac, radio, air bags, etc.) I recommend going through that effort and then checking out what you have left. What will be left is largely a network of splices connecting a few junction blocks. I left it alone at that point because they all fell into handy spots in the 60 dash. You could map them out and delete much more harness if you chose.

 

[Tank5]

This is my plan for now.

 

[Vossie]

@Vossie The 4 runner fuse box is really big and would be hard to locate in the truck. I am also eliminating a bunch of systems that came in the 4runner I won’t use, so I am not looking at the 4runner fuse box as an option, sane thought applies to the under hood relay/fuse box.

Fair enough. I get what you mean as I am worried about where I am going to mount my fuse boxes from my LS400 in my 45. In my case I think it will be well worth it though as I am trying to keep a large amount of the electrical stuff in the lexus and transplant it to the 45.

 

[White Stripe]

I found a fuse box I really like I used on my fj80. Look in the last few pages of my 80 series build thread if your interested.

 

[2fpower]

When I did my VZ 75 series, I used the 80 series engine harness and used the engine side fusebox and moved the relays and fuses to it. Always easy to find room for a fusebox in the engine bay. I should be able to track down an extra one if you want...

Here is inside fuse

engine bay fusebox, looks like room for 10 fuses, plus big ones, relays.

 

[Scheefdog]

Seems like this might be a good simple option for the fuse box - or at least it is what I am considering for my harness:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/ST_Blade_Split_Bus_Fuse_Block

You mentioned your wiring harness being a different animal when you are done. Check out this guys harness:

 

[Tank5]

When I did my VZ 75 series, I used the 80 series engine harness and used the engine side fusebox and moved the relays and fuses to it. Always easy to find room for a fusebox in the engine bay. I should be able to track down an extra one if you want...

Here is inside fuse

View attachment 2893443

engine bay fusebox, looks like room for 10 fuses, plus big ones, relays.

View attachment 2893444
View attachment 2893445

I have at least two 80 harnesses with the fuse boxes I will pull out and see if everything in the cab can be placed in the engine box. I was planning to use the body harness from one of the 80 to run the lights and such, so the 80 fuse box could work out really well.

I found a fuse box I really like I used on my fj80. Look in the last few pages of my 80 series build thread if your interested.

I will check you thread and see what you used. Thanks

 

[Tank5]

Seems like this might be a good simple option for the fuse box - or at least it is what I am considering for my harness:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/ST_Blade_Split_Bus_Fuse_Block

You mentioned your wiring harness being a different animal when you are done. Check out this guys harness:

Makes me want to box all me wiring junk up and send it to that guy. Thanks for the link. I had watched that video before which is part of the reason I moved everything in the house to work rather than freeze in my garage right now. Hopefully I get it done before my wife gets tired of the junk pile in that room.

I had looked at the blue sea panel before and it is still an option I just want to see what else is out there before I decide.

I'm using a fuse panel from an '81 Toyota mini-truck in my '71 FJ40 build. See my Post #20.466 here:

What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

forum.ih8mud.com

I like the idea but I want to use a fuse panel that takes the newer style fuses.

 

[Tank5]

I wanted the share a comparison between the 4runner fuse box and 80 series fuse box. The 4runner box has relays and 5 additional big plugs on the back.

The fuse box for the 80 series is not a bad size I just wish it had a cover. I may use it in the cab.

I started out removing unneeded systems from the 4runner harness but have decided it makes more sense to cut out the system wiring and components that I need and figure out how to wire them into the 80 series body harness. I think it will be easier to work with that way.

 

[Tank5]

Here is another comparison between the engine bay fuse boxes of the 4runner and 80 series. There is a lot of crap I don’t need in the 4runner box. For me there are a lot of reasons the 80 series harness will be the better direction to go. Only down side I think is that it is older.

 

[Tank5]

Here is everything I didn’t need, so far anyway, from the 4runner dash and cab harness.

This is what I kept. Everything connected to the steering column, ignition, and transmission shifter. Some of what I kept won’t be needed either but it was easier to separate it all at this time and work through it later. I ram not sure if I will use the ignition from the 4runner. I may look into using an original 40 series ignition but keep the immobilizer set intact, so the programmed key would have to be present to start it. I think @UZJ40 built his similarly, which is where I got the idea. @UZJ40 did you have any problems with the ignition set up that way?

I looked through the 2uz stand alone wiring directions and it does not have any wiring that will reconnect the OBD2 port into the engine harness. That might be one of the draw backs to this specific standalone harness. I won’t have the port as a diagnostic option.

Edit: I went back to the directions and found I had skipped over the section that addresses wiring the OBD2 port into the harness. It shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[Tank5]

This 80 series harness is from a 1993 South American 80 series. It had a carbureted 1fz, with manual transmission no abs, air bags, or sun roof it is a pretty basic harness for an 80 series. I am goin to try and use it as a base to modify for building the 45 harness.

The 1FZ didn’t really have a ECU but it did have this box which I think probably had more to do with emissions than anything else on that engine.

Edit: I googled the part number and it turns out that is an amplifier for the ac.

 

[Vossie]

ahh the joys of wiring....

 

[UZJ40]

Here is everything I didn’t need, so far anyway, from the 4runner dash and cab harness.
View attachment 2895079

This is what I kept. Everything connected to the steering column, ignition, and transmission shifter. Some of what I kept won’t be needed either but it was easier to separate it all at this time and work through it later. I ram not sure if I will use the ignition from the 4runner. I may look into using an original 40 series ignition but keep the immobilizer set intact, so the programmed key would have to be present to start it. I think @UZJ40 built his similarly, which is where I got the idea. @UZJ40 did you have any problems with the ignition set up that way?

View attachment 2895087

I looked through the 2uz stand alone wiring directions and it does not have any wiring that will reconnect the OBD2 port into the engine harness. That might be one of the draw backs to this specific standalone harness. I won’t have the port as a diagnostic option.

I can't quite see exactly what you did there, but stripping everything you don't need is definitely the way to go.

I didn't use the 2uz ignition, only the little ring around it which should be 5 or so wires.

I don't see any reason you can't use the obd2 port. There are only a few wires it needs to operate... Power, ground, and 1 or 2 from the ECU.

 

[Tank5]

I can't quite see exactly what you did there, but stripping everything you don't need is definitely the way to go.

I didn't use the 2uz ignition, only the little ring around it which should be 5 or so wires.

I don't see any reason you can't use the obd2 port. There are only a few wires it needs to operate... Power, ground, and 1 or 2 from the ECU.

Thanks, you answered my question regarding the ignition. I will have to revist the obd2 port. It would be nice to be able keep it.

 

[UZJ40]

Something else I'll add -

I think that 80 series harness will be more work than its worth for you. It'll take longer to make it how you want than just start from scratch.

My favorite route is using 2 Blue Sea 12 circuit panels. One is constant, and the other is key switched on (via heavy CONTINUOUS duty relay). Only thing that won't really be in it is a flasher relay for the blinkers, but you can get an LED flasher relay on Amazon for about $10.

 

[Tank5]

Something else I'll add -

I think that 80 series harness will be more work than its worth for you. It'll take longer to make it how you want than just start from scratch.

My favorite route is using 2 Blue Sea 12 circuit panels. One is constant, and the other is key switched on (via heavy CONTINUOUS duty relay). Only thing that won't really be in it is a flasher relay for the blinkers, but you can get an LED flasher relay on Amazon for about $10.

I think you are right about the 80 harness. I started working on it today and removing some of what I won’t need. I took a break for dinner and started looking at harness kit options I could use instead. I may end up doing just what you said but since I have already started hacking the 80 harness I may just keep going until it has warn me out.

You were right about the OBD2 port. I found that I had passed over a portion of the instructions. It is included in there and doesn’t look difficult to wire in.

 

[Tank5]

I am considering using one of these Eaton Bussmann power distribution modules to replace the in-cab fuse and relay panels. Has anyone used one of these units before or had experience with one. Seems like it would make for a clean install, and I should have room to expand if I ever needed.

ssVEC Power Distribution Module, Weathertight, 200A | Wayek Wire

ssVEC Power Distribution Module is weathertight and has a max rating of 200A, in stock and ready to ship. Order today!

www.waytekwire.com

Eaton's Bussmann Series 31S-002-0 ssVEC Power Distribution Module | Waytek

Eaton's Bussmann Series 31S-002-0 ssVEC Power Distribution Module, 200A is in stock and ready to ship. Order today!

www.waytekwire.com

 

[Tank5]

Wiring is the crux of the build for me. I have been going through the 80 harness and it seems like everything is intertwined through splices, fuses, and relays. The systems don’t seem as isolated as I imagined they would be. I don’t think I will use the 80 harness in the 45 but I am still using it to learn from. All the blue tape are splices.

I called Eaton and talked to one of their techs about the specs. For the modules I posted earlier. I could use them but I don’t think they would cover everything and would take multiple units, so I am still on the hunt.

For now I will keep tearing through the 80 harness, reading the electrical manuals, watching Utube, and searching the internet for answers. I am trying to learn as much as I can before I start buying parts to build this.

I am thinking I may just build each system on the table top first to test/troubleshoot it. Then build it all after I feel more comfortable with it. This might change to as learn more. We will see!