Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (3 Viewers)

[Michael B]

Try grounding the left turn signal locally.

 

[Tank5]

I sorted out issues 1, 2, and 3 from the prior post. In the end I had to undo what I had done and work through it again. I found that the brake light circuit runs through the turn signal switch after which I had incorrectly wired into the taillights. Fixed that and solved all three issues.

During that process I managed to lose my hazard lights. Now they come on but stay solid. Turn signals all work as they should, so the lights are good, flasher relay works, and the grounds are good. I am hoping my switch didn’t quite on me.

Three steps forward and one backwards.

 

[Tank5]

The hazards have stumped me so far. The reason I had them working before is because of the way I had them running through the tail lights, which I fixed and as a result cannot figure out how to get them functional again. I have cleaned the contact on the plug and all the grounds have been checked. I think I may need to take the switch apart to look and clean the inside. Before I go through that I would like to bench test the hazard switch. I have looked on the forum but have not found what I am looking for. I am not 100% sure how the circuit in my switch is supposed to work.

Anyone know how it works or where I can find that information?

This is the switch I am working with.

 

[mrboatman]

Maybe try this thread post #23 has a diagram of the switch

 

[Tank5]

Thanks @mrboatman the continuity sketch you directed me to that @archie73 shared helped me understand the the switch a little better and I was able to get my hazards working. I appreciate the help guys.

Finally the headlights with high/low beams, running lights, brake lights, turn signals and hazards all work as they should. Next I will need figure out the backup lights, center diff locker, shifter wiring, and take a stab at the speedometer wiring.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Great resilience Dennis. Nice. Rewarding. I need to figure out center diff locker wiring for fj140 build I am working on. Would appreciate you posting any insights on this.

 

[jomelo]

This is my favorite thread on Mud. Just knocking it out in your garage. Pretty soon to startup at this point?

 

[Bripars40]

Thanks @mrboatman the continuity sketch you directed me to that @archie73 shared helped me understand the the switch a little better and I was able to get my hazards working. I appreciate the help guys.

Finally the headlights with high/low beams, running lights, brake lights, turn signals and hazards all work as they should. Next I will need figure out the backup lights, center diff locker, shifter wiring, and take a stab at the speedometer wiring.

Let me know what you figure out with the center differential lock. I haven’t had any luck with how Tim wired my harness. I’ve thought about switched to some type of manual dial/knob to switch it at the transfer case to eliminate some of the electrical

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Great resilience Dennis. Nice. Rewarding. I need to figure out center diff locker wiring for fj140 build I am working on. Would appreciate you posting any insights on this.

I have the diff lock ECU, but reading to see a a way not to use it. I am trying to do triple locked without ECU.

 

[Tank5]

@ceylonfj40nut and @jomelo
Thanks for the kind words. Parts of this build have been a grind, like wiring, but when they come together and work it is exciting and a relief. I can’t wait until it is drivable.

@jomelo considering all the cool projects you have going on I am honored to be your current favorite.

@ceylonfj40nut and @Bripars40, I expect I will have to retain the center diff lock ecu to make it work. I recall reading @UZJ40’s build thread and was under the impression that the center diff lock ecu activates but also limits the movement of the actuator, so I think you have to use the ecu with it as the relay for this function.

I will start working on mine soon and will share what I learn.

 

[UZJ40]

@ceylonfj40nut and @Bripars40, I expect I will have to retain the center diff lock ecu to make it work. I recall reading @UZJ40’s build thread and was under the impression that the center diff lock ecu activates but also limits the movement of the actuator, so I think you have to use the ecu with it as the relay for this function.

I will start working on mine soon and will share what I learn.

You don't need to keep the ECU. It will probably be easier without it. You'll need two relays and a double pole, double throw switch. You'll basically be using the relays to tell the motor when to stop rather than the ECU. It is a bit complicated, but in the end, probably less work and more reliable than the ECU.

I think I did a wiring diagram for someone else at one point. I'll see if I can dig it up.

 

[Bripars40]

You don't need to keep the ECU. It will probably be easier without it. You'll need two relays and a double pole, double throw switch. You'll basically be using the relays to tell the motor when to stop rather than the ECU. It is a bit complicated, but in the end, probably less work and more reliable than the ECU.

I think I did a wiring diagram for someone else at one point. I'll see if I can dig it up.

That would be amazing! I have the center diff lock ecu wired in and it clicks when I shift into low range but nothing works at the center diff. I’ve tried to follow your pictures from your old build thread but I’m at a loss right now.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

You don't need to keep the ECU. It will probably be easier without it. You'll need two relays and a double pole, double throw switch. You'll basically be using the relays to tell the motor when to stop rather than the ECU. It is a bit complicated, but in the end, probably less work and more reliable than the ECU.

I think I did a wiring diagram for someone else at one point. I'll see if I can dig it up.

That would be fantastic!! Sure @Tank5 woukd appreciate it as well. We are bombing his thread

 

[Tank5]

That would be fantastic!! Sure @Tank5 woukd appreciate it as well. We are bombing his thread

Absolutely, I appreciate all contributions.

I played with my CDL after work long enough to wire in what I expect should work and believe it is working. I am using a 6 pin pull hazard switch with the stock ecu. I only had to cut three of the wires off of the 80 oem harness plug and attach them to the pull switch. I can hear it working when I use the switch to activate it. I need to wire the indicator light to confirm it is engaged. If it is actually working, it was super easy. If you don’t want to use the 80 ecu, I think @UZJ40 relay option is probably your best bet. I will post up some pictures later after I figure out the indicator light, so I am confident my solution works.

Edit: since I am using an 80 series harness as my base all I had to do was swap out the 80 switch for a proper pull switch. The majority of the 80 series circuit is still intact.

 

[archie73]

Thanks @mrboatman the continuity sketch you directed me to that @archie73 shared helped me understand the the switch a little better and I was able to get my hazards working. I appreciate the help guys.

Finally the headlights with high/low beams, running lights, brake lights, turn signals and hazards all work as they should. Next I will need figure out the backup lights, center diff locker, shifter wiring, and take a stab at the speedometer wiring.

Glad that diagram helped someone and congrats on getting all your lights working. Whatever is wrong with mine is likely my fault, but I’ll keep plugging away.

 

[Tank5]

I think my pull switch is working to activate the CDL but it is a little different. I can only get the the CDL indicator light to come on if I activate the CDL with the switch high/low position doesn’t matter. The indicator light is wired up separate of the switch. If I shift the tcase into low it does not activate the CDL indicator but if I pull the switch it comes on.

I have another earlier 80 series in my driveway and when I shift it into Low the CDL indicator comes on.

If my tcase were actually a 1HFA would this function of the tcase make more sense? I ask because I bought this tcase as a 1HFA but was later told it is a 2HFA. I still believe it is a 2HFA, just not sure why it is behaving like it is.

Here is the hazard pull switch temporarily wired into the harness. If I got it write there are three wires (Black, Yellow, and Red/Black) from the 80 switch that wired to the pull switch. I am reusing the 80 harness and tcase relay, so I don’t have to mess with anything else except the CDL indicator light. Here is a picture of the mess.

Edit: If it helps anyone else the hazard switch I am using for the CDL is from and early 80s Toyota Hilux.

 

[2fpower]

I wonder if this is the 7 pin delete thing.... meaning the late years 80 series is setup to always have CDL when you go into low... however, there is a 7 pin mod that allows you to put a switch in the dash to control it and turn it on and off in low or high.

Only other note.... To use the lockers, you have to first have the CDL engaged.

Center Differential Lock Pin 7 Mod - Slee Off Road

This modification does not have anything to do with the CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK SWITCH (CDL) directly. You do not have to do this, if you just install a CDL

sleeoffroad.com

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I wonder if this is the 7 pin delete thing.... meaning the late years 80 series is setup to always have CDL when you go into low... however, there is a 7 pin mod that allows you to put a switch in the dash to control it and turn it on and off in low or high.

Only other note.... To use the lockers, you have to first have the CDL engaged.

Center Differential Lock Pin 7 Mod - Slee Off Road

This modification does not have anything to do with the CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK SWITCH (CDL) directly. You do not have to do this, if you just install a CDL

sleeoffroad.com

Above is due to locker ECU in the mix as I recall. Does not apply if ECU is not used.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

When I was adding hazards I found i had tapped into the brake circuit on the incorrect side of the brake pedal switch. Took me a while to get them to function properly. Just an idea to trace down

 

[Bripars40]

You don't need to keep the ECU. It will probably be easier without it. You'll need two relays and a double pole, double throw switch. You'll basically be using the relays to tell the motor when to stop rather than the ECU. It is a bit complicated, but in the end, probably less work and more reliable than the ECU.

I think I did a wiring diagram for someone else at one point. I'll see if I can dig it up.

I think my pull switch is working to activate the CDL but it is a little different. I can only get the the CDL indicator light to come on if I activate the CDL with the switch high/low position doesn’t matter. The indicator light is wired up separate of the switch. If I shift the tcase into low it does not activate the CDL indicator but if I pull the switch it comes on.

I have another earlier 80 series in my driveway and when I shift it into Low the CDL indicator comes on.

If my tcase were actually a 1HFA would this function of the tcase make more sense? I ask because I bought this tcase as a 1HFA but was later told it is a 2HFA. I still believe it is a 2HFA, just not sure why it is behaving like it is.

Here is the hazard pull switch temporarily wired into the harness. If I got it write there are three wires (Black, Yellow, and Red/Black) from the 80 switch that wired to the pull switch. I am reusing the 80 harness and tcase relay, so I don’t have to mess with anything else except the CDL indicator light. Here is a picture of the mess.

Edit: If it helps anyone else the hazard switch I am using for the CDL is from and early 80s Toyota Hilux.
View attachment 3114384

Can I pick your brain some? The picture below shows the two wires Tim marked for the CDL from my 1998 100 series harness. I do not currently have them wired up, but when I shift into low range I can hear the CDL ECU click, but I'm not sure it's engaging the harness.

Could you or @UZJ40 draw a quick sketch of how to wire this in using the hazard switch like you've done?