Blinker / Hazard Issue 1973 Fj40

Coolerman

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You can try using a heat gun to heat both halves of the connectors. Don't get it so hot the plastic deforms, but you need to get it hot throughout. I have found this to work on stubborn connectors.

Just keep in mind you can replace the connector with the older style 9 pin connectors. If you get to the point you are going to cut them off write down the wire colors so you can match them up with the replacement connector.

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Good news- it came apart nicely-ish. I warmed it up with the heat gun, per @Coolerman and then was able to wiggle it apart with a couple pairs of channel locks. The only reason for the “ish” I broke a small amount of plastic off one corner. Honestly, I usually cause more damage then that anyway.
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Good news- it came apart nicely-ish. I warmed it up with the heat gun, per @Coolerman and then was able to wiggle it apart with a couple pairs of channel locks. The only reason for the “ish” I broke a small amount of plastic off one corner. Honestly, I usually cause more damage then that anyway.
PicsView attachment 3101529

The contacts looked to be in good shape and showed zero resistance on the multimeter.
View attachment 3101530I don’t know if this will make sense to anyone else, but I made a chart up of what pins had connectivity in on and off positions of the switch. According to the wiring diagram, what I thought was blue should be purple.

View attachment 3101532
I tested the multimeter and registered .02, subsequently all the other connections showed the same. This leads me to believe all the connections are good. With that knowledge, I decided not to tear the switch down- if this seems like a mistake let me know.

Just for clarification, since this a single year thread, mine is a March 1973.
 

Tank5

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@archie73 I am trying to trouble/test my hazard switch, the same switch you posted above. I can’t figure out how it is wired or functions. Could you translate your drawing testing process for this switch. I am still learning as I try to wire my project.
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@archie73 I am trying to trouble/test my hazard switch, the same switch you posted above. I can’t figure out how it is wired or functions. Could you translate your drawing testing process for this switch. I am still learning as I try to wire my project.
View attachment 3112342
So the colors are the different pinouts. All the wires are green with whatever is indicated by the chart - except the solid green wire. If there is a line going from one color to another, then my multimeter showed continuity in the indicated switch position.
In my case I believe I have a functional switch. I was hoping it was going to be the hazard switch, but no luck. I have functional hazards again (cleaned up my wiring), but no turn signals. Part of my issue is I have leds in the back and oem in the front. If I apply the brake and cycle the turn signal wand, I can simulate turn signals. This indicates the the turn signal switch is working and the hazards are operational, so I’m lost. I’ve tried led flashers and now a resistor- no dice. I’ll keep picking away at it…
 

Tank5

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Thanks for explaining your process. I will test mine and see what I learn.

I wish I could help you with your issue. My only guess would be maybe the LEDs don’t draw enough current to cycle the flasher. Have you tried swapping in some none LED lights to see if the hazards would work then?

Thanks
 
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Thanks for explaining your process. I will test mine and see what I learn.

I wish I could help you with your issue. My only guess would be maybe the LEDs don’t draw enough current to cycle the flasher. Have you tried swapping in some none LED lights to see if the hazards would work then?

Thanks
Unfortunately my taillights are a sealed unit, so I can’t swap them. Biggest problem is I don’t seem to allow enough time to really dig into it. I’m not complaining, though, I have driving cruiser built my way that just doesn’t happen to have blinkers. I mean it’s mostly legal….
 

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