jomelo
SILVER Star
Wow
Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tank5
- Start date
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Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #642
I have been working on the wiring and looking for grounding locations. I am using a thread cleaner and tap to clean the threads as best I can. I was wondering while hooking up the ground connections if there is a product like dielectric grease or something that one can apply to ground locations to improve the connectivity and prevent corrosion? Please share if you know of something that works well for this.
Thought I would share these battery terminal connections I am using. The plan is it to keep the battery terminals clean and run all of my positive connections through a junction box. These OJOP quick disconnect terminals are nice for a vehicle that does not get used daily if you want to easily disconnect the battery while it sits. They look pretty clean too.
Thought I would share these battery terminal connections I am using. The plan is it to keep the battery terminals clean and run all of my positive connections through a junction box. These OJOP quick disconnect terminals are nice for a vehicle that does not get used daily if you want to easily disconnect the battery while it sits. They look pretty clean too.
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Hopefully you know that OPTIMA is the shortened version of the original name for those batteries. The long version is "OPTIMA SUCKS".
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #644
Hopefully you know that OPTIMA is the shortened version of the original name for those batteries. The long version is "OPTIMA SUCKS".
The first Optima battery I bought lasted 9 years in my Tacoma. I replaced it with another and it died in a year and a half, so yeah I know. That said I put an Odessey battery in my Tundra camper and only got 2 years out it which was disappoint as well.
The Optima pictured is out of my plow truck and hopefully will get me through the testing phase. After I have the truck driving and usable I will spend money on a new battery for it. I am not sure what I will go with but I have been researching lithium batteries.
Open to suggestions?
Hopefully you know that OPTIMA is the shortened version of the original name for those batteries. The long version is "OPTIMA SUCKS".
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Well, I just retired an 11-year-old Interstate marine battery from my boat because the lame bastard quit holding a charge.
Oh, the 9-year-old starting battery in that boat is good-to-go still.
I'm sold on Interstate wet lead-acid batteries. The only reason you would need an Optima is if you intend to roll your truck.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #648
@cruiserdan Is there compound that Toyota used to apply to the thread for grounds at the chassis or body?
Not that I am aware of. Everything I have ever taken apart has shown no evidence of residual coatings.
OEM True Start Batteries are made by Interstate ............
to a slightly higher reserve capacity too .....
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Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #652
Awesome day!!!
I started the morning by making a run to the parts store. I bought new fluids and replaced everything that I could. Then hooked up the battery and turned the key. The engine cranked and I heard a waterfall at the back of the truck. Hummm, I missed tightening the banjo bolt on the fuel line, so I fixed that and cleaned it up. Attempt two it fired up after the fuel made it to the engine. It ran pretty smooth.
Second Start Video
I was excited and went to find my wife, she amused me and said she was proud, then asked when I was going to sell it. Ha never I said.
I am still using the 80 harness as my base, which threw me a few challenges but I got through it. This is the mess as it sits to confirm function for the first start. Next I will continue figuring wiring the accessories then clean up for the final wrap. I won’t make it to Ouray but still pretty happy at the moment.
I can’t figure out how to post a video but if someone will tell me how I have a 30 second video of the second start I will post.
I started the morning by making a run to the parts store. I bought new fluids and replaced everything that I could. Then hooked up the battery and turned the key. The engine cranked and I heard a waterfall at the back of the truck. Hummm, I missed tightening the banjo bolt on the fuel line, so I fixed that and cleaned it up. Attempt two it fired up after the fuel made it to the engine. It ran pretty smooth.
Second Start Video
I was excited and went to find my wife, she amused me and said she was proud, then asked when I was going to sell it. Ha never I said.
I am still using the 80 harness as my base, which threw me a few challenges but I got through it. This is the mess as it sits to confirm function for the first start. Next I will continue figuring wiring the accessories then clean up for the final wrap. I won’t make it to Ouray but still pretty happy at the moment.
I can’t figure out how to post a video but if someone will tell me how I have a 30 second video of the second start I will post.
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Nice Dennis, huge milestone!!! It’s easier if you upload the video to a YouTube channel linked to your email then you should be able to upload a hyperlink here.
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I can’t think of a more cushy life for a battery. LolWell, I just retired an 11-year-old Interstate marine battery from my boat because the lame bastard quit holding a charge.
Oh, the 9-year-old starting battery in that boat is good-to-go still.
I'm sold on Interstate wet lead-acid batteries. The only reason you would need an Optima is if you intend to roll your truck.
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
Awesome! Nothing better than that first start to confirm your havnt made a complete catastrophe of the wiring 
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #657
Ok, I figured it out. I added a link to the engine start in that post above but for those that don't want to scroll up I attached it here as well.
Second Start Video
Second Start Video
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #658
After the successful start I found the radiator was leaking at the drain plug. I had used a 3/8 thread plug originally but after a call to Ron Davis I learned it needed to be a 3/8 NPT thread. I ordered a new plug but couldn’t get it to seal. I may have damaged the threads with the incorrect plug first, so I had the drain welded up.
Final fix
Working through the body wiring really isn’t that fun, so I take breaks to bolt some pieces on here and there to make it feel like I am making progress.
I was looking at the original hood hinges that were really loose and the holes had been elongated from years of abuse. I had a set of hood hinge pins that @SMG makes for the later hood hinges.
I wanted to retain the old hinges for their patina and decided to experiment.
I drilled the hinge pin hole out with a 3/8 bit.
I used 4 bushings per hinge, one on each side of each half.
There’s a small gap in the center to accommodate the bushings but the hing is tight and functions as it should. I ordered more bushings to do the second hinge and will bolt them on to make sure everything lines up. I am happy with the results.
I am still chipping away at the little things, which seem to take time.
Final fix
Working through the body wiring really isn’t that fun, so I take breaks to bolt some pieces on here and there to make it feel like I am making progress.
I was looking at the original hood hinges that were really loose and the holes had been elongated from years of abuse. I had a set of hood hinge pins that @SMG makes for the later hood hinges.
I wanted to retain the old hinges for their patina and decided to experiment.
I drilled the hinge pin hole out with a 3/8 bit.
I used 4 bushings per hinge, one on each side of each half.
There’s a small gap in the center to accommodate the bushings but the hing is tight and functions as it should. I ordered more bushings to do the second hinge and will bolt them on to make sure everything lines up. I am happy with the results.
I am still chipping away at the little things, which seem to take time.
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Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #659
Wiring the headlight, taillight, hazard, turn and dimmer switches is making my head hurt. My original approach is not working.
The 80 series harness I am using for the chassis with all the relays and wiring to the switches doesn’t communicate with the 40 and 55 series pull switches as is. The 80 series switches all go to ground it seems while non of the 40/55 switches do that all the grounding is at the lights, so they don’t function to activate the relay or at least I can’t make them do what I want.
I think my plan now is it to start pulling all the extra relays from the 80 harness that don’t exist in the 40 harness. I am thinking I need to shape the 80 harness to replicate the 40 harness to use the pull switches.
Anyone know we’re I can buy the harness side plugs and terminals to fit 40/55 pull switches? I would prefer to build it myself but I would also buy the plugs as complete pigtails if that is how they come.
The 80 series harness I am using for the chassis with all the relays and wiring to the switches doesn’t communicate with the 40 and 55 series pull switches as is. The 80 series switches all go to ground it seems while non of the 40/55 switches do that all the grounding is at the lights, so they don’t function to activate the relay or at least I can’t make them do what I want.
I think my plan now is it to start pulling all the extra relays from the 80 harness that don’t exist in the 40 harness. I am thinking I need to shape the 80 harness to replicate the 40 harness to use the pull switches.
Anyone know we’re I can buy the harness side plugs and terminals to fit 40/55 pull switches? I would prefer to build it myself but I would also buy the plugs as complete pigtails if that is how they come.
@ToyotaMatt sells new and refurbed switches and plugs
