Minus 7 - Travis builds a Troopy (80+40+3UZ) (1 Viewer)

[Scheefdog]

Awesome build! Glad to see how you placed your cowl relative to the frame as I'm facing a similar although fairly different build, 4runner chassis instead of an 80 and 1uz instead of the 3uz, although I am going R151.

Question for you, what fly wheel and clutch combo did you go with?

Cool to see that you are doing a similar build, but on a different chassis. Based on my understanding the 1UZ vvti is basically the same as the 3uz. The 3uz is just bored over for larger displacement and has some updated parts on it.

I have been waiting on a flywheel that I ordered close to 3 months ago... It is a flywheel that Northwest Toys sells that LCE Performance manufactures. It is essentially a 3vz flywheel that is heavier weight and milled to fit the UZ. Based on the reading that I have done, a good machine shop can mill a regular 3vz flywheel to fit the 1uz. The clutch I have is also from Northwest Toys and is an LCE clutch with the correct throwout bearing for the UZ - it is basically this clutch (Dual Comp Clutch Kit - 3VZ(88-95) (9 1/4'') - https://www.lceperformance.com/Dual-Comp-Clutch-Kit-3VZ-88-95-9-1-4-p/1053090.htm)

Since you are in Zimbabwe, I would see if getting a setup from Castlemaine Rod Shop in Australia is reasonable. Or it seems like a lot of 4runner/Pickup UZ swaps run the KSracing kit sold on eBay. I think the black bell housing that I have (shown in my pics) is from KS racing and Northwest Toys basically re-sells it.

 

[Vossie]

Cool to see that you are doing a similar build, but on a different chassis. Based on my understanding the 1UZ vvti is basically the same as the 3uz. The 3uz is just bored over for larger displacement and has some updated parts on it.

I have been waiting on a flywheel that I ordered close to 3 months ago... It is a flywheel that Northwest Toys sells that LCE Performance manufactures. It is essentially a 3vz flywheel that is heavier weight and milled to fit the UZ. Based on the reading that I have done, a good machine shop can mill a regular 3vz flywheel to fit the 1uz. The clutch I have is also from Northwest Toys and is an LCE clutch with the correct throwout bearing for the UZ - it is basically this clutch (Dual Comp Clutch Kit - 3VZ(88-95) (9 1/4'') - https://www.lceperformance.com/Dual-Comp-Clutch-Kit-3VZ-88-95-9-1-4-p/1053090.htm)

Since you are in Zimbabwe, I would see if getting a setup from Castlemaine Rod Shop in Australia is reasonable. Or it seems like a lot of 4runner/Pickup UZ swaps run the KSracing kit sold on eBay. I think the black bell housing that I have (shown in my pics) is from KS racing and Northwest Toys basically re-sells it.

Thanks for the info! Pretty much lines up with my own research but I always preferred speaking to some one who has actually done it rather than just going on what the Internet says.

Might need to pick your brain further down the line

 

[Scheefdog]

I debated on how to do the engine mounts. I ended up deciding to utilize the factory Lexus rubber mounts because they are in great shape and look to be a fairly substantial design. I made mounts that sit inside the frame and will get a better picture when I pull the engine out again.

 

[Scheefdog]

I have been working on getting the wiring connected and setup to test run the engine. The original engine harness is stripped down to the basics and the ECU is re-flashed to eliminate the immobilizer and automatic transmission controls. I setup a makeshift dash panel with an ignition switch, push button start, and a couple lights for check engine and oil pressure. An OBD reader is providing the rest of the vitals.

Fuel is obviously needed to test run as well so I took the factory 80 pump and dropped it into a custom fuel bottle. The 3UZ does not have a fuel pressure regulator on the engine and it is located in the fuel filter/pump assembly of the Lexus cars. I am using a fuel filter with a built in regulator and return.

 

[Scheefdog]

And it runs without any codes! Sounds like an airplane and revs like a top fuel dragster?

 

[UZJ40]

Congrats! What a feeling.... Nothing like it

 

[Vossie]

Nice! How bad was stripping down the harness to the minimum?

 

[Scheefdog]

Nice! How bad was stripping down the harness to the minimum?

Not bad... because I paid someone else to do it! I have done engine swap wiring on a Toyota in the past and found it to be time consuming. The guys that do swap wiring as a job certainly have it streamlined because of the repetition with what they are doing.

I think outsourcing the engine wiring is money well spent because I still have plenty of wiring to do on the truck.

 

[Bripars40]

Not bad... because I paid someone else to do it! I have done engine swap wiring on a Toyota in the past and found it to be time consuming. The guys that do swap wiring as a job certainly have it streamlined because of the repetition with what they are doing.

I think outsourcing the engine wiring is money well spent because I still have plenty of wiring to do on the truck.

Agreed! I did the same with my 2uz swap.

 

[Scheefdog]

The holidays were busy and I didn't get much time to work on my project, but have been slowly chipping away at a couple items.

FIrst, I want to post a picture of how the engine looks from the front sitting in the frame. I know it is always helpful to see other peoples pictures for reference.

I got a stock 40 radiator frame - thanks to @whitey45 - and mounted up my radiator. I made tabs welded to the front crossmember similar to what a 40 has to support the radiator frame. Then I modified some stock support rods and added tabs on the 80 frame for them to secure to.

I needed some bushings for the rod to radiator and found some that worked perfect from a junk FJ80 rear bumper that I still have laying around.

 

[Scheefdog]

For the battery, I have been planning to mount it where the stock heater blower goes. Then I saw what @UZJ40 did with his airbox and wanted to copy his cool use of the side vent. I didn't want to give up on my battery mount there and wanted to see if I could do both in the space.

I cut and bent a plate that bolts to the existing vent holes to act as a cover and also to support the battery. I messed around with trying to build the airbox on the bottom of that, but didn't have enough space to get the air filter in there and have the battery on top (with the hood closed)...

So I ended up making some sheet metal pieces to weld to the cowl that creates a larger airbox. The battery will still be supported by bolt on steel piece and the battery tray will be the top of the air box enclosure. I'm waiting on new AGM battery to do a final mockup before I weld and finish it all up.

This side of the cowl was tweaked from a rollover and it was good time to remove the inner vent scoop (or whatever you want to call it) and do some hammer and dolly work to straighten it out.

Does anyone know if the earlier bolt-on side vent has the same style/dimension louvers as the fixed one like mine? I'm thinking it would be really nice to graft the earlier bolt-on style to my cruiser for the access to the air filter.

 

[merbesfield]

Some great info on the 80 chassis 40 body Facebook page about everything that needs to be done.
I also prefer the look of the standard guards and was thinking about extending some 80-100mm to cover the wheels.
Love the extra length of the body, wish we could get these down under.
Coming together mate

Can someone post a link to this FB page?

 

[Vossie]

For the battery, I have been planning to mount it where the stock heater blower goes. Then I saw what @UZJ40 did with his airbox and wanted to copy his cool use of the side vent. I didn't want to give up on my battery mount there and wanted to see if I could do both in the space.

I cut and bent a plate that bolts to the existing vent holes to act as a cover and also to support the battery. I messed around with trying to build the airbox on the bottom of that, but didn't have enough space to get the air filter in there and have the battery on top (with the hood closed)...

View attachment 2896355

So I ended up making some sheet metal pieces to weld to the cowl that creates a larger airbox. The battery will still be supported by bolt on steel piece and the battery tray will be the top of the air box enclosure. I'm waiting on new AGM battery to do a final mockup before I weld and finish it all up.

View attachment 2896370
View attachment 2896357

This side of the cowl was tweaked from a rollover and it was good time to remove the inner vent scoop (or whatever you want to call it) and do some hammer and dolly work to straighten it out.

Does anyone know if the earlier bolt-on side vent has the same style/dimension louvers as the fixed one like mine? I'm thinking it would be really nice to graft the earlier bolt-on style to my cruiser for the access to the air filter.

View attachment 2896382

Nice! I like that idea that @UZJ40 did with his airbox and this idea as well. Too bad my 66/7 doesn't have the vent

 

[frankenyota]

Can someone post a link to this FB page?

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

 

[merbesfield]

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

Thanks

 

[Scheefdog]

I ended up putting way too much time into into getting the air intake/battery tray combo to work because they don't really fit in the space... but I made it work. I ended up going back to having the airbox on the plate steel battery support because of the clearance to the fender and needing a way to get the air filter in and out. The battery has to be removed (along with a plate cover) to access the air filter, but there was no other way to make it work with the space.

Lots of angles to make it all fit with the fender, body taper, and air filter - but you don't see any of it once it is mounted.

I had to create the MAF sensor mount because it is integrated into the airbox on a typical 3UZ. I bought aluminum tubing that has the same i.d. as the stock intake and TIG welded a sensor mount.

A picture with the battery in place. I still need to do the hold-down and will do something similar to what Toyota does with a rod on one side.

 

[Scheefdog]

I decided to keep tackling engine related items. Next up was getting the ECU mounted. With the 3UZ in stock form, the ECU is in the engine bay. I got a stock ECU box and fabbed up a mount for it. The stock box seals well and being a Lexus part it is very well crafted.

I mounted the engine fuse and relay box to the apron right behind the ECU box. I think it is nice having all the engine wiring together here.

 

[Scheefdog]

The 3UZ uses a drive by wire gas pedal. I utilized a 1st gen Tundra/Sequoia one and fabricated a bracket mounted to the OEM holes on the firewall.

 

[Scheefdog]

I have been debating what to do for heat and A/C. I prefer the look and function of having ducts in the dash. I was leaning towards Old Air or Resto Mod Air because of this. However, I realized it would be way less work to go with Vintage Air FJ40 kit. I still might try to add vents on the outside of the dash because I live in a cold locale - and having heat next to the windows would be nice.

I ordered the Vintage Air evaporator kit and condenser kit. I did not order their FJ40 line kit because I am planning to utilize the stock Toyota compressor if I can figure out fittings to make it work. @UZJ40 What did you do on your 2UZ build for the compressor and lines?

The other hurdle I might have is that the Vintage Air unit is setup for the A/C & heater lines to come through where my battery is. Hopefully I can route the lines to the side of that above where the stock heater lines go through.

Edit:
After more searching, I found this thread with links to fittings that will likely work to go from the UZ compressor to standard AC lines.

A/C Gurus - Fitting Question

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[UZJ40]

I ordered the Vintage Air evaporator kit and condenser kit. I did not order their FJ40 line kit because I am planning to utilize the stock Toyota compressor if I can figure out fittings to make it work. @UZJ40 What did you do on your 2UZ build for the compressor and lines?

I ended up using the OEM Tundra compressor. I sent the OEM Tundra high pressure line off the compressor to Old Air and they brazed on the fitting for the rest of the line. Knowing what I know now, pretty much any hose shop could do that brazing job.

The lines I used at the time came with the Old Air kit. But again, this time around, I'll just have them made locally.