Builds Mail Order Ride - My HDJ81 (3 Viewers)

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Joined
Jul 30, 2016
Threads
21
Messages
841
Location
Alberta, Canada
Hello all

So, I've been lurking around reading on and off here for a couple years, and finally taken the plunge. I'm going to document the process so that others know more about what they are in for when doing the whole vehicle immigration thing. For starters, I will tell the story about how it got here, before getting into what I've done with it since it arrived.

For the last 11 1/2 years I've owned a 2005 GMC Jimmy ZR2, brand new off the lot, and it has served us well, taking us many places. Having two new children however, made the practice of using a little 2-door SUV pretty much an impossibility. After our first camping trip with the firstborn, I knew things would need to change. Over the course of the next nearly two years, I had spent a long time reading about different options, trying to come up with the perfect vehicle to use as the new "Family Adventure Vehicle". A newer 4-door Tacoma was seriously considered, one of the brand new GMC Canyons would also have been a nice idea, as was a newer 4Runner, but all those would have had some problems: seriously expensive, IFS fronts and lacking in character. We are going to miss that little ZR2 when the day comes to sell, but life must go on.

I started looking at the Cruisers for obvious reasons. Something that was already local would have been miled out, and overpriced here; seriously, people are asking over $20k for something with 300,000kms, especially if I wanted a diesel. They were also popping up extremely rarely in the classifieds, so having known people who have played the import game, I started looking at bringing one in for myself.

I got in touch with William at JDM Connection, and started the process of looking through Japanese Auction sites trying to see any interior photos that would indicate the magic switch being in place. Looking specifically for something that was a 95-97, with the lockers, in decent looking shape, hopefully owned by a non-smoker, all the good stuff if possible. Made a couple of bids on vehicles, but didn't hit their reserve prices, eventually seeing this gem roll up, and ended up winning the bid.

Final auction sale price: 1,014,000 JPY. Roughly $12,000CAD in today's market.

Paid that up via a wire transfer, paid for some shipping costs (which are high, thanks to the size and weight of the vehicle), and eventually I found out the vehicle was loaded onto a RO/RO ship called the Dalian Highway.

Shipping is an interesting thing, there is actually websites that track different vessels, so once you know what boat the vehicle is on, you can watch it online as it's GPS location gets updated. I watched it float to San Diego, then on up the coast stopping a few times on the way before being unloaded on July 1 in New Westminster - Vancouver.

At this point it had been around 6 or 7 weeks since I had "purchased" the vehicle, but let me assure you waiting 4-5 business days for customs feels like an eternity. I get the email stating that customs has been cleared, and I am given contact info for a company named WWL - Wallenius Willhelmson Logistics. This is on a Tuesday, I arrange for my vehicle pick up on Friday the 8th. Hop onto a loyalty points redemption website and purchase a single one-way ticket to Vancouver from Edmonton for 6AM Friday morning. Go get me some insurance papers and an In Transit registration.

Friday morning I leave home at 3:45AM for the long drive to the airport, and all the fun that is involved with travel. Make sure to stop at the little pub in the airport that serves alcohol 24 hours a day and put back a pint at 5:00AM because the novelty of such a thing is too good to pass up. Get onto my FIRST CLASS seat (which comes with free checked baggage for my big duffle bag of tools, filters and assorted bits), and enjoy the complimentary breakfast and OJ that the rest of the flight doesn't even have the ability to purchase, and before I know it I'm landing at Vancouver International. Hail a taxi, who ends up being a really friendly guy, who drives me to the Annacis Island port location of WWL and drops me off at the door, for a cool $55.

I'm a little early, so hang around and marvel at the INSANE AMOUNT OF VEHICLES. Seriously, look this up on google maps:

Google Maps

That little star is exactly where the vehicle was waiting for me, but look at the massive lot around it. Imported vehicles all over, from all sorts of Asian manufacturers as far as the eye can see. The RO/RO ships are insanely big as well and really cool to see up close. I wanted to take a bunch of pictures of the area, but security told me that was a no-go.

So, at this point I have keys, I have my paperwork, I can hop into my new truck and drive it away. Turn the key over: the batteries are completely, 100% dead. The lot does not provide a boosting service officially, but one worker came over and suggested I try their battery cart; a dolly with one battery and a little solar pack on it. For lack of other options, I hook it up, and leave it for a while to hopefully charge up both batteries enough to turn it over. Try calling a roadside service company, he won't come past the security gate, try getting ahold of extended family living in the area, they are busy at work on a Friday. Then, thankfully, Ben from Fraser Valley Imports shows up to pick up a vehicle of his own, and offers a spare battery to help me out. Using the charger pack and his battery to boost it, the beast fires up immediately.

If you are doing the import game, have boosting arrangements figured out ahead of time. One of the dock workers told me that out of 180 used vehicles on the boat, 105 of them were completely dead. He suggested that it looks like the Japanese exporters put in garbage batteries on purpose to get rid of them without paying disposal fees. Almost every vehicle needs to be boosted, will work long enough to drive off the boat, then parked and repeat.

I head to the closest Wal-Mart to buy batteries, but they had nothing. Luckily, the short drive charged me up enough to start the vehicle again, and off to the closest Ukranian Tire I can find and purchase two new batteries, the 27 and 27F. I grab those, along with many, many liters of Shell Rotella, ATF Fluid, Coolant, Brake Fluid, some diesel conditioner and other things I couldn't put on the plane, swap the batteries in the Cambodian Tire parking lot, go buy some fuel, and hit the highway. You guys aren't kidding when you say these vehicles are slow, but I'll get into that more later.

Drive mostly non-stop, having a couple breaks for meals, and some pictures along the way, back to Edmonton. The stereo in the vehicle, being for Asian markets, won't pick up any local radio stations, won't play any of my MP3 CDs that I burned for it, doesn't have an AUX in or USB port, but has a HDD built into it that just happens to be loaded up with music.

So, I listened to Japanese Pop music for 12 hours.

Walked in the door at home at 3:15AM the next day. My 23 1/2 hour journey to get it home was complete.

And now, since everyone loves pictures, and most of you probably skipped that whole pre-amble, here's what it looked like during the drive home:

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Much more to come...
 
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So, now for some details, both in progress and original.

As Received:
1995 HDJ81
116,000kms
315/75R16 Yokohama Geolander I/T winter tires
16x10, -24mm Mickey Thompson Classic III wheels

4" Lift (I think, based on what I'm looking at)
Adjustable LCAs
Adjustable panhard bars
ProComp front shocks
Rancho rear shocks - Leaking
Rear-View Camera hooked up to a Sony Asian Market TV tuner
Oversized rear view mirror/LCD screen hooked up to SECOND back up camera

Dark tinted windows all around - Removed tint on front windows
Sonar headlights - DOT approved, but bad beam pattern - - Fixed beam pattern
LED taillights - Not sure the brand
LED backup lights - Again, not sure the brand, probably just Chinese RIGID knockoffs
LED interior lights
LED license plate lights
"Dual" cat-back exhaust
K&N oiled-up cone style open air filter
Rotted/leaking rear heater lines
- NOW FULLY REMOVED!
Horn non-existant

What I Gone And Done Did:
New batteries
Oil Filter/Fuel Filter/Coolant Flush/Brake Flush
New brake pads, shoes and rotors all around
Birf service and front axle drain/fill
New rear calipers
Pioneer AVH-X4800 Head Unit - with backup camera working
Fixed light beam pattern
Pitiful weak sounding horn installed
Bypassed rear heater lines
OME rear shocks (will need to eventually swap out for long travel ones though)
315/70R17 Wrangler Duratracs x5
Black Rhino Warlord 17x9, -12mm offset wheels
Removed Japanese toll road card reader thingamajigger
EGR pipe removed, remaining EGR stuff coming out in time
Glowshift 3in1 gauge installed - Boost, Pyro and Tranny Temp
Dome Light Mod - Both dome lights turn on from any opened door
Proper stock airbox with new clean filter to replace the K&N junk
Modified exhaust for now, removed premuffler/resonator thingy
Installed grounding strap from intake to exhaust
Installed Zerostart 600w lower rad hose heater
Grimmspeed Manual Boost Controller put in
Rear heater lines FULLY removed
Custom sliders built and installed
Rear axle drain/fill - FINALLY
Homemade rear bumper and tire carrier
New front shocks - Icon 2.0s
Installed Tekonsha P3 brake controller
Another oil change
Replaced failed alternator with 80amp unit - *temporarily permanent*
Hit 123456kms on the odo
Upgraded alternator, ground and battery cables to 1/0awg
Morimoto 35w 4500k HIDs put in the low beam holes
Changed thread title to reflect the name that's been adopted for the vehicle
3" Stainless exhaust with new custom dump pipe
Injector rebuild
Valves adjusted
Timing adjusted
Painted valve cover
Another oil change
Replaced boost compensator diaphragm
Begun tuning injection pump
Built and installed attic rack
Another oil change
150A Sequoia alternator
Oil change
Rebuilt power steering pump
Replaced rear hatch lift struts
Oil change
Installed auxiliary transmission cooler
Redone the leaky front brakes and added 100 series pads
Tire rotate
Repaired some rust and Raptor lining
An oil change
Built some sway bar mounts and did sway bushings
Built two battery boxes and added a pair of Odyssey group 34/34r
Built a relay box mounting panel
Built a mother ****ing front bumper!
Put a Warn VR10k on it!
Added some Chinesium lights to it!
Sprayed it with some rattle can!
Oil, air and fuel filters done again
Rear hub service
Ujoints all around again
Extended diff breathers
Built jerry can mount for rear bumper
Gutted/super cleaned interior
Found Japanese money
Ripped out more Japanese wiring
Sound deadened all over
Wired for sound and power
Front seat foam refresh
New window runs and clean/lubrication of associated stuff
ABS rebuilt door cards
Usb power ashtray inserts in the rear doors
New speakers and amp
12v starter swap
New rear brakes after royally ****ing these ones
New upper/lower rad hoses
Coolant Flush
New steering reservoir
Front sway bar link bushings, still ****y
 
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So, first things first: get this puppy road-legal.

I start with headlights. The aftermarket lights that the PO put on the vehicle are kinda blingy, but I suppose I like them. They also have the advantage of being DOT approved already, even though the light pattern was totally wrong. They are projectors that shine up and to the left, and during the later part of the drive home, I kept getting flashed from people thinking my brights were on, even on a divided highway.

The headlights are made by a company named SONAR, but some Google-fu leads me to believe they are one in the same as a company named Spyder that makes cheap looking blingy stuff for vehicles. The part number that was on them appears to be for headlights for an Audi, which is weird. Honestly, I couldn't find these again if I tried.

I pull the headlights out, take off the clips and screws and hit the edges with a heat gun, warming up the black roofing tar like glue that keeps them together. Eventually, after separating the light housings, I have access to the low-beam projectors inside.

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Take apart the projector housing, and then you can see the little flap that dictates the light pattern. Fun fact: the projector actually flips the image, kinda like looking at your reflection in a spoon, so the little flap is actually covering the top of the light, but it comes out the other way. Two screws hold it in place, super easy to flip over, but the little extra flap that stops the glare in the middle doesn't fit quite perfect, due to the angle on one side of it. I put it in anyway, and it seems to work just fine.

Before:
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After:
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Result:
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Not perfect, but totally acceptable. With the DOT and light pattern taken care of, hook up daytime running lights. I installed a relay under the hood, used the power wire for the fuel heater (which this apparently doesn't come with) as a trigger to say when the vehicle is running, and ran the power from that to the marker lights, halo rings, and leds on the headlights to operate as my DRLs.

The rear lights have the LED kit from some brand, no idea what it is yet, and the 3rd high brake light was already in place. The side markers have yellow lamps in them, and everything should be good to go as far as lighting in concerned for the out of province inspection.

Fun extra, all the interior lights are also LED already. Yay for some small amount of tasteful improvements from the PO.
 
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Second step: Fluids and Filters. Oil changed with Rotella Synthetic 15w-40, new filter, new fuel filter.

As part of the rad flush, I need to tackle the rear heater hoses. The hardlines for the rear heater were heavily corroded where they pass over the catalytic converter, to the point of leaking anytime the heater was turned on. I looked up the steps to bypass it for now, cut the lines down under the vehicle, and drained and flushed everything before changing the coolant. Refilled with OEM Toyota Red.

The nastiness underneath:
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T-Fitting removed and replaced with some 5/8" heater hose. You can see the other side somewhat, but it's not important:
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Brake fluid will be done when I do the brake job, power steering fluid is, well, it's there, looks clean and same with the tranny and transfer case. I will get to those at a later date.

Looking at the front diff though, I have one leaky knuckle, another that looks dry, and some awful looking diff fluid, so next step is the front end service.
 
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This birfield service job is a tough one. I would wager it took me close to 13 hours to do the whole thing, a half dozen rolls of paper towel, tons of nitrile gloves, and 3 pairs of awfully dirty coveralls that now need cleaning. All this while sweating away in a near 30 degree celsius garage, every night after the kids get to sleep, staying out there till 1230 or 1AM, even when needing to go to work the next day. I took my time, going slow and reading stuff about it as I went, cleaning parts out nicely, and trying to do a good job. Honestly, this job is nearly as much of a PITA as the heater core on an S10 (but that's a job I never want to touch again in my life if possible) Got it done though, and looks good. Preload set to around 15 lbs worth of pull on the fish scale, because I read somewhere that people like them being a wee bit tighter when dealing with larger tires. I used the Terrain Tamer rebuild kit that was sold by a local 4wd shop called 4Wheel Auto, they specialize in Cruisers of all sorts, and while I might get stuff cheaper on the internet, it's nice having a shop nearby that actually stocks things in the city.

The outer wheel bearing on the right side was in pretty rough shape, and the left side was only a bit better. It looks to me like someone did a brake job on the truck, but didn't have an axle socket, so they knocked it off with a big screwdriver, then likely never set the preload properly after replacing it all. Grab new Koyo inner and outer wheel bearings and replace them while I'm in there. Used Lubriplate 3000Winter moly grease for the birf, Mobil1 synthetic for the bearings, and Lucas Oil 75W-90 synthetic to fill the diff.

Changed the brake rotors, pads, shoes all around while I was at it. The parking brakes in the rear didn't work at all because the bellcranks were seized, so I took them apart as best I could, soaked in penetrant, kept working them until they moved, then lubricated the crap out of them. When doing the parking shoes, I struggled like a madman to get the new ones to fit. Everything seemed just so tight, I couldnt' figure out the problem. Embarassingly enough, it was because the shoes were completely wrong, and I hadn't compared them to the originals when I pulled them out. I just kinda thought it had been so long since I dealt with a brake drum that they were always that lousy. Got the right shoes, and it set up really easy and nice.

I think this is the first time I've owned a vehicle where the parking brake REALLY worked, and wasn't just there for show.

Onto more pictures.

The diff fluid/moly soup that was leaking out right away:
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A not entirely healthy bearing:
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The stuff to be installed, since everyone LOVES their "Look at the pile of money" pictures:
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Obligatory "look how clean my knuckle is" picture:
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Random picture of a new rotor. Whatever, you all know what they look like.
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Next stop: Out of Province.
 
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This is now two weeks later. I get the truck into the out of province inspection, and mostly looks good, but for a couple more things that failed it. When you fail these, you have 10 days to get it re-inspected, or you start from scratch again. I started on a Friday, so I couldn't arrange any orders of parts during the weekend, limiting my time, and the last three days of my re-inspection period are a long weekend, so, I had a total of about 4 days after the weekend to get everything up to snuff.

I mounted up the CURT trailer hitch during the weekend though, since I was going to need it eventually. Won't be building a custom rear bumper for a while.

I have a broken exhaust hangar - Weld it back up. The rest of the exhaust passed, even though it's so loud. It looks stock from the turbo to post-cat, but then they upped it to 3", went to a muffler, then have a backwards Y-pipe installed after the axle, so one side doesn't do much really. It's dual output, it's decently loud and rumbly, looks deadly, but I will need to change that eventually.

I need a heat shield between the exhaust and the fuel tank - Bend one up out of some scrap stainless from work and install.

Reverse light didn't work - turned out to be some minor corrosion on the bulb base, stopping it from working sporadically. Clean it up and good to go. (I forgot to mention earlier, those LED light bars on the back of the truck were wired into the reverse lights to work EVERY time you put it into reverse, I removed those, but put them on the shelf for now. They may come in handy)

Rear shock is leaking - Bought a pair of OME Nitrocharger that are built for the 2.5" lift because they happened to be what was in stock in town, and what I could even get in less than a week. Their travel is actually pretty much the same as the Ranchos that were on it, and they ride nice and will work for now, but I only get about an inch of down travel when I flex it out. They will need to go eventually, but for now, I will survive.

Rear lower left side control arm bushing at the axle side is bad - Needs to be replaced. I read those are a bitch to get out, and I didn't have easy access to a good press, so I pulled the control arm and gave it to the inspection shop to press out. Ended up being $70 worth of shop labour to do it. OUCH!

Rear brake caliper had a leak - Bought a couple of the higher end refurb'd units from NAPA and installed.

Wheel alignment - Got the shop to do it during re-inspection. JDM vehicles are aligned to wander a bit left, or at least this one was, so they fixed that up so i wander to the right instead. I guess they want you to drift off the road if you fall asleep, instead of into oncoming traffic.

The day before re-inspection, my new head unit shows up in the mail. FINALLY, I can listen to something other than J-Pop. I went with the Pioneer AVH-4800BS: Nice 7" display, I've been happy with Pioneer before, and the price was reasonable. No navigation built in, but I had other ideas for that. See, I was looking into something that would link with the phone nicely, I wanted to be able to run Backcountry Navigator on the screen if possible. I would get topography maps, the ability to save and record new trails, all sorts of cool stuff, but using offline downloaded maps, and no data for it. Pioneer advertises the AppRadio function, and there's a version of AppRadio for rooted phones called AppRadio Unchained. In theory, you can run absolutely ANY app on your phone on the screen then, but I'm having trouble getting it to work. I think it has something to do with the custom ROM I'm running on my phone; I have a Galaxy S4, that I'm running a version of CM13 on, and I've always had a bit of trouble with bluetooth and other connectivity stuff. I'm able to get the phone calls and handsfree to work on the head unit, but it won't access my music, or allow this Appradio stuff to work. Regardless, it's a cool head unit, and I'll be happy with it, I'd just like it to work BETTER if possible.

Fun bonus - the backup camera that was installed plugged into the new head unit and worked perfectly right away. The quintessentially Japanese oversized rear view mirror which had a screen in it to play TV and use a different back up camera was also removed. It made things too dark anyway, i hated it.

Fancy Heat Shield:
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Installed:
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New shocks:
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Out with the old:
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In with the new:
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Now, after July 28, the vehicle was registered to be legally driven as I damn well please. Nearly 2 years of decision making, almost 3 months of waiting after purchasing, and after a good many late sweaty nights of labour, I'm on the road and trying to figure out what I'm doing next.
 
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Jealous!
 
:flipoff2:
Very Nice. Great price as well. A local just purchased one out east and has it for sale in Ottawa area for $8500. A buddy just purchased a 94? locally with lockers for around $12K, but roof needs a repaint.
 
I am currently running those napa reman callipers, I have heard good things with them!

Nice story too!
 
Nice writeup. Someday I hope to have a turbo diesel 80.
 
Nice write-up!! Those are some impressively large drop down brackets for your front lower control arms!!
 
Incredible! Congratulations! Looks beautiful, my first choice in color!
 
Thanks guys.

Finally getting it on the road and legally driveable, I've been trying to put a bunch of time behind the wheel to get to know it some more and see what's needed.

So yeah, EGR delete and EGT gauges are definitely on the list. I'm currently considering the Glowshift diesel 3 in 1 gauge, so one gauge will show the boost pressure with a sweeping needle, then two digital displays to show EGT and tranny temps. Then, I figure when doing the EGR delete, use the cap on the exhaust manifold to mount the EGT probe. The big wonder is where to install the gauge: I don't like pillar pods, I'm a firm believer in keeping the windshield area as uncluttered as possible (no satellite radio or GPS doohicky's hanging off the glass for me) and I don't want something that will just be screwed to a dash somewhere. Gotta spend some more time thinking about that.

A tranny cooler is going to have to go in eventually. Anytime we go camping, we do a lot of mountain roads, and I want to be pulling a small tent trailer, and I'd rather have nothing to worry about in that regard.

But, wheels and tires have to be next. These are winter tires, and there isn't a spare o_O So, do I either pick up another Mickey Thompson Classic III wheel, and then sell the tires, or do I grab a whole new set of everything, and either keep these for winters, or sell them as a set? I'm leaning towards all new stuff right now. I know I'm going to go 315 Duratracs, I've been really happy with them on the other vehicle, but wheels I'm still undecided.

Does anyone ever have any concerns about buying something with a larger centerbore and using the hub centric ring adapters? No issues with strength or stability or highway vibrations, as long as the adapter fits good and snug?

IroncladLou - Yeah, they're beefy all right. The control arm is dropped down 4" so far, which makes me think it's a 4" lift on it, but I don't have any stock measurements to compare to, and there's another hole to drop it to 6" if I wanted to. I have no idea what kit this was part of though. The springs don't seem to have any information on them, although they're pretty stiff and keep it high, the front shocks are ProComps, and the rears were Ranchos. The rear control arms are adjustable, which is cool. It looks kinda like a pieced together kit that some Japanese shop threw in, but I guess I gotta do more digging to find out.
 
I like the idea of bright white lights in theory.

Toying around with the idea of ordering a set of LED headlight bulbs to replace the high beams in these housings, a co-worker let me know that his brother had a set laying around I could try out and maybe buy for cheap. This set was by a company named Glare LED, but they don't seem to exist anymore, so it looks like it's one of those Chinese companies that pop up, make some knockoff stuff, sell as much as they can online, then disappear, only to reappear someday under a new company name. It was a set of H1 bulbs and drivers, and they claimed to have a output of 2200 lumens, which should be pretty great compared to the 1550 lumen output of a standard 55w halogen bulb, it's like a 50% increase in output. There's a little bit of futzing around to get them to fit nicely because of the cord coming off the side of the lamp, and not the back.

I installed one of them and it looked kinda like this:
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At this point I'm suitably impressed, like I said I like the white look to the lights. Back out of the garage, and against the garage door it looks REALLY bright, I'm liking them.

After driving, however, the white light doesn't go much further than about 30 feet down the road, while the yellow would shine on down the road for hundreds of feet. Maybe it had to do with needing to back the bulb holder out as far as possible to accommodate the cord coming out the side, but it's like the light is so scattered and unfocused it just doesn't project anywhere.

Add to that the fact that the bulbs have a little fan on them, and you can hear the vibration around the entire vehicle, not so much noticeable once the vehicle is running, but when it's off and the lights are on, it's a REALLY loud noticeable noise.

Needless to say, I pulled them out, put the normal halogens back in, will look at maybe HID or HIRs later on down the road, and thanked my coworker for the opportunity to save some money from eBay.
 
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Depo lights, Philips bulbs... That is all
 
Nice truck! Looks like you've banged out a bunch of maintenance on it already. I didn't see that you've addressed the BEB's, is that not an issue on the 1HD-FT engines?

I'd seriously consider an analogue gauge for EGT over a digital display, much easier to glance at and know what's happening. The mountain roads that will give you issues have lots going on where you don't want to be taking your eyes off the road longer than necessary, especially when towing.
 
As far as I've heard, the BEB isn't really as much of an issue on the 1HDFT, but some people still go ahead and do it anyway. There just isn't all the horror stories about it online like there is with the 1HDT. I was figuring I would get around to that sometime during the winter.

Good call on the gauge, I'll keep it in mind, maybe do the analog EGT, with the digital boost and tranny temp or something if I stick with the 3in1. That's going to take a bit because I honestly cannot BELIEVE the price of a decent set of gauges, it's just scary. When I looked closer at the Glow-shift 3 in 1, the price itself doesn't seem so bad, but I can't seem to find ANYWHERE that will ship it for less than $125, in addition to the almost $200 for the device itself. If I find a set of 3 ISSPROs, it ends up being over $600. Our dollar up here isn't helping things.

For this weekend's maintenance though, front U-Joints need doing. I took the front shaft out last night and the axle joint had some notching in it, and driving without the front shaft was a night and day difference.
 
Front U-Joints are replaced. I did the job using one of the Princess Auto/Harbor Freight/whatevertherestoftheworldcallsaplacethatsellsthosecrappy"usethemonlyoccasionally"toolkindaplaces C-Clamp style UJoint remover/installers. I can't justify the quadruple-priced Tiger Tool for this job. The whole "use some vice grips and pull the bearing cups out" thing did NOT work whatsoever. I couldn't get a single bearing cup out, just too damn tight, so I ended up having to use the cutoff disc on a grinder and cut both joints out of there. I can't imagine trying to do this on the side of a trail, I'd be limping home in 2wd and calling it a day. They went in nice and easy though.

If doing U-Joints, I would just make sure to have a grinder handy and get cutting early.

Went with GMB - Made in Japan U-joints from the local place because he had them in stock, I assume they'd be better than the NAPA stuff, and they are still half the price of the true Toyota ones. Here's a thoroughly uninteresting picture.

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