Correct, no intercooler, just extra air.
Builds Mail Order Ride - My HDJ81
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Correct, no intercooler, just extra air.
But once you add an intercooler and a turbo running 19 psi... oh baby! 
third gear lockup helps haha
third gear lockup helps haha
Welcome to the club. You got a good deal on it assuming it wasn't rolled back. I would have a hard time getting one that cheap even here in Japan... I would always want to see the last JCI (Shaken) form. Enjoy..!!
I would recommend the Madman from South Africa. It's not analog. But you can monitor, engine hours, voltage, EGT, 1 pressure, and oil and coolant temp. Also have inclinometer. I got my display, two temp senders, the pressure sensor, and a thermocouple probe shipped from South Africa for around $400 CAD. They even shipped me a new thermocouple at no cost when my original was faulty, no questions asked.
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- Thread starter
- #45
Interesting, not terribly flashy looking, but this might be easier to tuck away/hide somewhere than a normal gauge would be. Can the screen display multiple measurements at once, or just one at a time?
Yeah it's super not flashy. Smacks of Atari which might be right around your age bracket anyway.
And yeah I leave mine set to the multiple display: engine hours, volts, egt, turbo boost, oil temp (which I use for veggie oil fuel temp), and coolant temp (so I know how hot my heat exchanger is).
And yeah I leave mine set to the multiple display: engine hours, volts, egt, turbo boost, oil temp (which I use for veggie oil fuel temp), and coolant temp (so I know how hot my heat exchanger is).
- Thread starter
- #47
I
I'm assuming there probably no reason the oil temperature couldn't be used to measure the tranny oil temperature instead. $400 for the whole kit is tempting.
I'm assuming there probably no reason the oil temperature couldn't be used to measure the tranny oil temperature instead. $400 for the whole kit is tempting.
I think you can do conventional gauges X 3 cheaper than that, but the madman does more, and has a very compact package that you could find lots of places to mount.
Yeah for sure it can measure any fluid temp you want. You set the scale and when you want an alarm to go off as well.
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- #50
Finally got around to finishing up what needed doing on the old ZR2 and got it listed for sale. Now the waiting/answering stupid questions game until someone serious actually comes and looks at it. Here it is in all its glory for any who are interested.
With that all done with, back to the Cruiser.
Pulled out some more janky Japanese wiring. There was some sort of card reader that was probably for a parking garage, some wiring for the second backup camera that fed to the oversized rear view mirror/LCD screen thing, some of the other stuff that fed the TV unit, and a lighting switch. Most of it's garbage, but I think I'll hang onto the LCD screen thing just in case, and definitely hanging onto the two LED bars for future somewhere. Still have a GPS antenna to take out.
While pulling out wiring, took a bit of a look at the remote start situation. There's a Viper unit installed in the truck; the base unit is a Viper 4X04, the remote is a RPN-7652V, and the antenna says SST Responder Technology on it. Doors unlock and lock fine with it, but I haven't been using it because I don't like the way it operates the starter for a couple reasons.
1 - It only takes ONE short button push on the remote to get it to start. I don't like that, I would rather have to hold the button or something. I see myself accidentally pushing buttons way too easily, so I gotta find out if that's a setting I can change.
2 - Once started, you can just get in and drive the vehicle, and don't need to put a key in the ignition. Then, when you've stopped driving, the only way to shut it off is to use the remote again. I haven't tried a long term drive, but I'd be worried that the truck would stop while driving after its 12 minute or so timer is done. And, the whole "thieves could just drive away" thing bothers me too. Looking at the wiring diagram I found online, my first guess is that the "Brake Interrupt" switch might not be connected properly. I think that input should have the unit shut off when the brake is pushed, which would then require the key be put in place before you hit the brake.
Remote start is not terribly important to me right now, but its nice knowing its there, and that it might be able to work the way I want to with a little bit of digging (and then cleaning up some of the wire connections to be a bit more secure).
With that all done with, back to the Cruiser.
Pulled out some more janky Japanese wiring. There was some sort of card reader that was probably for a parking garage, some wiring for the second backup camera that fed to the oversized rear view mirror/LCD screen thing, some of the other stuff that fed the TV unit, and a lighting switch. Most of it's garbage, but I think I'll hang onto the LCD screen thing just in case, and definitely hanging onto the two LED bars for future somewhere. Still have a GPS antenna to take out.
While pulling out wiring, took a bit of a look at the remote start situation. There's a Viper unit installed in the truck; the base unit is a Viper 4X04, the remote is a RPN-7652V, and the antenna says SST Responder Technology on it. Doors unlock and lock fine with it, but I haven't been using it because I don't like the way it operates the starter for a couple reasons.
1 - It only takes ONE short button push on the remote to get it to start. I don't like that, I would rather have to hold the button or something. I see myself accidentally pushing buttons way too easily, so I gotta find out if that's a setting I can change.
2 - Once started, you can just get in and drive the vehicle, and don't need to put a key in the ignition. Then, when you've stopped driving, the only way to shut it off is to use the remote again. I haven't tried a long term drive, but I'd be worried that the truck would stop while driving after its 12 minute or so timer is done. And, the whole "thieves could just drive away" thing bothers me too. Looking at the wiring diagram I found online, my first guess is that the "Brake Interrupt" switch might not be connected properly. I think that input should have the unit shut off when the brake is pushed, which would then require the key be put in place before you hit the brake.
Remote start is not terribly important to me right now, but its nice knowing its there, and that it might be able to work the way I want to with a little bit of digging (and then cleaning up some of the wire connections to be a bit more secure).
- Thread starter
- #51
Ignoring the remote start for a bit, it's gauge time.
Found a company called CPP Diesel that was selling the GlowShift 3 in 1 unit I wanted for $170US. Then, in addition to that, FREE SHIPPING! So, a total of $230CAD to my door, with all probes and sensors required included.
I took some inspiration from the way @70sguy put his gauges in. Took out the heater vent, removed the adjustable louvers from the back, then I marked out a cutting template. He said he used a drill press EXTREMELY slowly with a hole saw, but I ended up using a dremel to cut it (I felt safer that way), then cleaned up the cut edges with a knife. The gauge was fitting very snug, and I almost just used pressure to hold it there, but ended up using the mounting bracket on the back to help hold it in there solid. I also put on the sun shade because I think it looks neat.
I notched both the vent housing and the vent in the dash in one corner to allow the wires to get through. Then I wrapped the wires in some pipe insulation so it plugs the hole and protects the wiring.
The probes have been run through the firewall and are waiting under the hood, but I just have to finalize where I'm installing them. I'm going to make some EGR delete plates, so I'm going to install the pyro sensor in that, the tranny I need some fittings to put it in the outgoing line, and for the boost, I think I'm going to drill a hole into the air intake connector right beside (or tap off) the boost compensator line. haven't decided yet for sure where.
With the gauge wired up, I think it looks pretty cool so far. Most of the colors are bright and I don't like them, but the white color option is pretty close to the gauges already. Hopefully I have the probes figured out and installed in the next couple days.
Found a company called CPP Diesel that was selling the GlowShift 3 in 1 unit I wanted for $170US. Then, in addition to that, FREE SHIPPING! So, a total of $230CAD to my door, with all probes and sensors required included.
I took some inspiration from the way @70sguy put his gauges in. Took out the heater vent, removed the adjustable louvers from the back, then I marked out a cutting template. He said he used a drill press EXTREMELY slowly with a hole saw, but I ended up using a dremel to cut it (I felt safer that way), then cleaned up the cut edges with a knife. The gauge was fitting very snug, and I almost just used pressure to hold it there, but ended up using the mounting bracket on the back to help hold it in there solid. I also put on the sun shade because I think it looks neat.
I notched both the vent housing and the vent in the dash in one corner to allow the wires to get through. Then I wrapped the wires in some pipe insulation so it plugs the hole and protects the wiring.
The probes have been run through the firewall and are waiting under the hood, but I just have to finalize where I'm installing them. I'm going to make some EGR delete plates, so I'm going to install the pyro sensor in that, the tranny I need some fittings to put it in the outgoing line, and for the boost, I think I'm going to drill a hole into the air intake connector right beside (or tap off) the boost compensator line. haven't decided yet for sure where.
With the gauge wired up, I think it looks pretty cool so far. Most of the colors are bright and I don't like them, but the white color option is pretty close to the gauges already. Hopefully I have the probes figured out and installed in the next couple days.
- Thread starter
- #53
Yeah, there is still some air flow, but i rarely use those vents on any vehicle. In the summer I'm a windows down type, and i basically leave it on the defog/floor setting all winter.
And yeah, looks like all the pictures stopped working. Hitting edit on each post, the pictures show up just fine, and then saving the changes seemed to have fixed it, so the links are good. Wonder why that would happen?
And yeah, looks like all the pictures stopped working. Hitting edit on each post, the pictures show up just fine, and then saving the changes seemed to have fixed it, so the links are good. Wonder why that would happen?
arnott1t
SILVER Star
saw you yesterday and thought…. nice rig!.. I was in a dark blue hdj81 and waved at your passenger…
Nice clean truck, Checkout the clubhouse section under the Oil Country Cruisers…. we have a beer and wing night this week even… usually wednesday at 6 in St Albert.
Lots of diesel 80's in town here and usually a pretty active club. We have a website somewhere too… oilcounttrycruisers.ca I think.
Anyway great truck and don't be a stranger!
Nice clean truck, Checkout the clubhouse section under the Oil Country Cruisers…. we have a beer and wing night this week even… usually wednesday at 6 in St Albert.
Lots of diesel 80's in town here and usually a pretty active club. We have a website somewhere too… oilcounttrycruisers.ca I think.
Anyway great truck and don't be a stranger!
- Thread starter
- #55
Yeah, i saw you too, truck looks good with the snorkel and bumpers on it. I've been meaning to try to make it down for one of the wing nights, with summer ending should be easier to find time now.
- Thread starter
- #56
Got the boost sensor installed.
First test drive shows a max of about 10psi normally, but I did manage to hit 11 for a split second up around 3500+ rpm while doing a really hard pull and leaving it in 2nd gear.
First test drive shows a max of about 10psi normally, but I did manage to hit 11 for a split second up around 3500+ rpm while doing a really hard pull and leaving it in 2nd gear.
- Thread starter
- #57
Then I left the truck for a while to let it cool off and started pulling off the EGR system. The top ones on the intake came off nicely, but once they were loose, there was play in the entire EGR unit, as if the exhaust manifold connection was loose or something. Those two bolts on the exhaust manifold were particularly nasty, with one of them giving up almost immediately. I mean, REALLY giving up. 3/8" wrench, next to no effort and it just twisted right off. The other bolt has the top threads (the exposed ones) just mangled. I'm pretty sure I let it cool down enough, as I was able to hold my hand on the ex-manifold indefinitely. It was slightly warm, but not hot by any means.
Looking at the manifold/gasket/stud of the one that broke, it's blackened on that side of the opening. That makes me think it was loose for whatever reason, and there was an exhaust leak, possibly weakening that stud.
So, now that I've effed it up, either being my own dumb ass fault, or something else that was wrong beforehand, I guess I gotta figure out what to do about it.
My current plan is to pull the whole manifold off, cut the tops of those studs nice and clean, put a die on them and clean the threads where they are. Then, put on a 1/4" blanking plate over the hole, and I should have more than enough threads showing on the short one to still nut it down tight.
Then, I suppose since I have the manifold pulled anyway, I can drill and tap my EGT sensor hole without worrying at all about anything getting in there.
Anything else that should be done at the same time? Try to find and replace the exhaust gasket even if it looks OK?
See the black on the bottom of the top stud?
The connecting face of the EGR pipe, all black on the left side. Looks like a leak to me.
Looking at the manifold/gasket/stud of the one that broke, it's blackened on that side of the opening. That makes me think it was loose for whatever reason, and there was an exhaust leak, possibly weakening that stud.
So, now that I've effed it up, either being my own dumb ass fault, or something else that was wrong beforehand, I guess I gotta figure out what to do about it.
My current plan is to pull the whole manifold off, cut the tops of those studs nice and clean, put a die on them and clean the threads where they are. Then, put on a 1/4" blanking plate over the hole, and I should have more than enough threads showing on the short one to still nut it down tight.
Then, I suppose since I have the manifold pulled anyway, I can drill and tap my EGT sensor hole without worrying at all about anything getting in there.
Anything else that should be done at the same time? Try to find and replace the exhaust gasket even if it looks OK?
See the black on the bottom of the top stud?
The connecting face of the EGR pipe, all black on the left side. Looks like a leak to me.
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Well that sucks, but I agree that if you're already pulling the manifold, drill for the EGT probe just above the collector.
Could you just clean up the threads on on the broken studs then put a hole in the block off plate for the EGT probe and bolt the block off plate down with the probe in it and be done?
- Thread starter
- #60
I'd like to, sure would mean a lot less work for now, but the top of the broken stud is pretty twisted and mangled. Is a tough spot to get to so i don't have room to spin my die to clean the threads with that. I could try cutting just a sliver off the top with the dremel and then try a new nut before taking everything apart. Last thing i need is more studs breaking while I'm taking off the manifold.
