Builds The Green Bastard (1 Viewer)

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You sir get high marks for the "garage pants" photos.:rofl: Keep up the good work!
 
Flaring tool worked nicely today!
Ended up cutting just the flared end off of the line that was on there, replacing the fitting, and then flaring the tubing again, there was just enough extra line on the line that was on there.

Other than that, got 3/4 wheels done with new brake lines / extended brake lines for the frame. Going to finish up wheel 4 tomorrow and then bleed, just in time for some supposed snow!
 
You're getting after this thing in a hurry! I like it.
I am just trying to get it roadworthy / ready to wheel. (like the condition I thought the vehicle was in)

Rough summary so far:
Upon purchase, knew that the rear axle seals needed replacing
And the power steering lines were done.
(Did not know that would entail new parking brake shoes / discovering that the rear rotors / brakes were quite bad as well)
When re-doing the rear axle seals, found that the bearings were bad as well.

Shortly after purchase discovered the snapped stud in the front knuckle.

While working on replacing the front knuckle stud, found that the brake line up there was toast, looked at all of the other brake lines and saw that they were in a similar state. Also discovered that none of the brake lines were extended to compensate for the lift.

While working on the power steering stuff, found that the paperclip was "fixed" by some of the previous owners, ended up replacing that with a derale cooler.
Replaced all of the power steering lines (now only to discover that the power steering box itself is likely leaking)

Most of the hurrying in December was trying to get things done to pass NC inspection (primarily of which was having the parking brake function enough to hold the vehicle on flat while in drive)
 
I'm caving in on mine and outsourcing a bunch of labor. I'm sick of working in the wet/cold, and I want to drive the dang truck. Some will say that's lame, but I am supporting a local business.
 
I'm caving in on mine and outsourcing a bunch of labor. I'm sick of working in the wet/cold, and I want to drive the dang truck. Some will say that's lame, but I am supporting a local business.

I weigh outsourcing things. My time is money. And I want to enjoy wrenching. If it's a miserable job or extremely labor intensive I may just pay someone.

Normally I would've bought a trans and swapped it myself. But something told me to just pay for it. That $800 I paid in labor has paid dividends.
 
Got all of the new brake lines installed today (only minor swearing)
Sheared a bleed port off of one of the rear calipers, going to try a Napa eclipse, and if that goes poorly, get a new Toyota OEM one.
 
@fourtrax was right, I popped apart the failed caliper, and the chrome was coming off of the piston.
IMG-2298 - Copy.jpg
 
Napa eclipse caliper was installed today.

With a sample size of 1:
All of the hardware went where it should
I did have to chase the threads on the 2 holes where the bracket mounts to the chassis.
Piston appears to be quite nice.

Will run this brake until it doesnt, and then probably look at Toyota brakes.

Also finally finished up installing all of the soft lines + extended chassis to axle lines to compensate for the lift.
Full brake system bleed as well.
 
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Napa eclipse was installed today.

With a sample size of 1:
All of the hardware went where is should
I did have to chase the threads on the 2 holes where the bracket mounts to the chassis.
Piston appears to be quite nice.

Will run this brake until it doesnt, and then probably look at Toyota brakes.

Also finally finished up installing all of the soft lines + extended chassis to axle lines to compensate for the lift.
Full brake system bleed as well.

Where did you get a set of extended lines?
 
A curious transmission "problem" has started cropping up.
Only seems to occur on rolling stops.
Example:
Exiting my neighborhood I take a right on to a main road, there is enough visibility that I kind of slowly slow down / roll into the stop sign.

If I re-apply the gas immediately, the transmission wont take a gear, and just revs the engine, then clunks hard into gear.

I checked my transmission fluid levels, and I appear to have overfilled it when replacing the fluid (Valvoline dex3 ATF), and the fluid level (at cold) is just shy of the hot mark starting band.

Any thoughts? This seems to only happen at rolling stops / low speed turns
 
A curious transmission "problem" has started cropping up.
Only seems to occur on rolling stops.
Example:
Exiting my neighborhood I take a right on to a main road, there is enough visibility that I kind of slowly slow down / roll into the stop sign.

If I re-apply the gas immediately, the transmission wont take a gear, and just revs the engine, then clunks hard into gear.

I checked my transmission fluid levels, and I appear to have overfilled it when replacing the fluid (Valvoline dex3 ATF), and the fluid level (at cold) is just shy of the hot mark starting band.

Any thoughts? This seems to only happen at rolling stops / low speed turns

If the problem occured shortly after the fluid swap, I recommend ensuring the level is correct and then verify operation. Anytime you work on a vehicle and have issues shortly afterwards that are related to the work you have done the first thing you should always do is reevaluate the work you did and ensure you've done it correctly
 
So those aren’t even sliders? They’re just side steps? Hmm. I really want some on my rig but I already have an ARB bumper and nice sliders.
I was talking with a friend about this, they have all this verbiage about how sturdy they are, I think they are technically side steps, but very beefy.
I will likely be posting about what they are like once Uwharrie opens up for the year.
 
Looked at the dipstick, it was around 15% over the cold range, tried to drain some out with the mittyvac, will see what the dipstick looks like after the tube drains / settles.

The fluid is quite brown still even after having drained it only ~100 miles ago, maybe another change is in order.
 
Looked at the dipstick, it was around 15% over the cold range, tried to drain some out with the mittyvac, will see what the dipstick looks like after the tube drains / settles.

The fluid is quite brown still even after having drained it only ~100 miles ago, maybe another change is in order.

Draining the pan only removes about 1/3 of the fluid from inside the transmission. You can continue to drain and cycle yourself or you can take it to a dealer and have them power flush it
 

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