Builds The Green Bastard

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on the rocks said:
Mount it to your spare instead. Your improving your departure only to gain a few inches to rip off an expensive piece of hardware.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I have considered that / thought about that, *usually* most of my wheeling with the bike on would not be in danger of taking the bike rack off.
Thinking of trying out a hitch that bolts on to the rear cross member.

If that does not go well, will figure out how to mount that up to the spare :D
 
I added a receiver hitch just to carry my 1-Up. The tailgate will open with the 1-Up folded down but if I fold it up, the tailgate just barely rests on it. It makes it sit about 1/2" higher than fully extended. I do use it like that but don't put ANY weight on it. If I need to put any weight on the tailgate, I fold the 1-Up down.

I would think moving the hitch up any at all from the receiver point wouldn't allow you to use the tailgate very much at all. Just my results, YMMV

hitch.jpg
bikerack.jpg
 
Pick said:
I added a receiver hitch just to carry my 1-Up. The tailgate will open with the 1-Up folded down but if I fold it up, the tailgate just barely rests on it. It makes it sit about 1/2" higher than fully extended. I do use it like that but don't put ANY weight on it. If I need to put any weight on the tailgate, I fold the 1-Up down.

I would think moving the hitch up any at all from the receiver point wouldn't allow you to use the tailgate very much at all. Just my results, YMMV

View attachment 2906743View attachment 2906744
Click to expand...
When you say down, are you referring to the "down" position in this PDF?

and which 1up do you have?
 
Sorry for the confusion... My "Up" referred to the "Storage" position and when I said "Down", I was referring to the "Ride" position. I have the 1.25" hitch with the 2" adaptor on it.

I keep mine in the 'storage' position all the time unless my bike is on it and the tailgate just rests on it when I lower it down.
 
Pick said:
Sorry for the confusion... My "Up" referred to the "Storage" position and when I said "Down", I was referring to the "Ride" position. I have the 1.25" hitch with the 2" adaptor on it.

I keep mine in the 'storage' position all the time unless my bike is on it and the tailgate just rests on it when I lower it down.
Click to expand...
excellent, thanks!
I *think* I might just have enough room :D
going to do some mock ups / measuring later
 
Did some measuring / guesstimating.

Bare bumper:
33 degrees of departure

With rack on bolt on hitch:
31.2 degrees of departure.


Also found some antifreeze leaking, I suspect that is an indicator that I will need to do some maintinence soon
Antifreeze was on drivers side, kind of pooled on the transmission
(heater control valve is on the list, but did not see any leaking from that area.)
Got informed of my poor life choices for trying to verify that the fluid was coolant (by tasting it) by the fiancee D:
(she schooled me on antifreeze toxicity)
 
The drivers speaker was toast, installed the Harmon Infinity slim fit speakers.

On the swing out bumper, the pins that lock the handles into place had extra bits of wire cable strands sticking out, fixed the finger poking cables:
(Had to cut the cables and install new ones, semi questionable heat shrink job)

Before:
IMG-2329 - Copy.jpg

After:
IMG-2330 - Copy.jpg
 
A/C compressor adventures.

I had removed the A/C belt since the compressor wheel was wobbling a lot. (And quite noisy when driving around)

I attempted to pull the compressor wheel off, but was unable to get in there with the snapring pliers

The vehicle is already running a R134a (HFC13a) A/C system.

I am debating just putting in a brand new unit from Denso ($200) and being done with it.

Local shops are wanting $200 just to drain and fill the A/C system, and to spend the $200 just to replace a $40 bearing doesnt seem to make the most sense when a whole new compressor is $200 in total.

 
roflbox said:
A/C compressor adventures.

I had removed the A/C belt since the compressor wheel was wobbling a lot. (And quite noisy when driving around)

I attempted to pull the compressor wheel off, but was unable to get in there with the snapring pliers

The vehicle is already running a R134a (HFC13a) A/C system.

I am debating just putting in a brand new unit from Denso ($200) and being done with it.

Local shops are wanting $200 just to drain and fill the A/C system, and to spend the $200 just to replace a $40 bearing doesnt seem to make the most sense when a whole new compressor is $200 in total.

Click to expand...
@fourtrax can help with the evac and fill.
 
I have figured out how to have the compressor be accessible without evacuating it / excessive swearing, the hopefully correct knipex locking pliers arrive today.

Local landcruiser club has posted their event schedule for the year, and I am excited! (2022 ONSC Calendar - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2022-onsc-calendar.1275820/)

Current List of to figure out (sooner than later):
  • Rear brake squeals when turning, going to see what the actions in this thread bring:
  • Need to do cooling system flush, that should be the last big flush item that is needed for a bit.
    • Will inspect / order new hoses for some of the smaller areas
  • Fuel Filter.
  • A/C clutch bearing replacement.
  • What is still leaking ATF, and from where
    • I have already replaced the high pressure and low pressure hoses, and installed a derale cooler.
    • Current leaking is seen on the gearbox, almost like fluid is being poured on top of it.
  • Get an exhaust shop to remove a bad O2 mounting point and weld a new one in, along with fixing a starting to form crack in the y pipe.
    • Probably will get an alignment while I am there
  • Anything that has a zirc fitting, grease it
  • Check grease in driver's knuckle
  • Creature comforts:
Sure I am forgetting something too, lol
 
:poop:
was leaving the local LC club meeting, and had a pretty terrible start, 1x crank over and then it died (didnt really seem to turn over all the way)
1x of cranking and nothing
1x of cranking and then it finally started, @lumbee1 noted of a lot of gas smells as I pulled away.
Lots of flickering of lights, which leads me to thinking about a bad ground in the engine, but I had used the electrics manual earlier, and fixed all of the bad grounds in the engine bay, maybe I will re-check those tomorrow.

I also got a lot of hissing when I tanked up earlier in the day, charcoal canister time?
www.autozone.com

Duralast Vapor Canister VC120

Shop for Duralast Vapor Canister VC120 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.
www.autozone.com www.autozone.com
 
Is that cruiser jinxed, you seem to have more then your fair share of bad luck with it.
Even with all the love you have be pouring into it. :doh:
 
roflbox said:
:poop:
was leaving the local LC club meeting, and had a pretty terrible start, 1x crank over and then it died (didnt really seem to turn over all the way)
1x of cranking and nothing
1x of cranking and then it finally started, @lumbee1 noted of a lot of gas smells as I pulled away.
Lots of flickering of lights, which leads me to thinking about a bad ground in the engine, but I had used the electrics manual earlier, and fixed all of the bad grounds in the engine bay, maybe I will re-check those tomorrow.

I also got a lot of hissing when I tanked up earlier in the day, charcoal canister time?
Click to expand...
Great thread! You’re getting afte...just replaced mine to get after a leak there.
 
roflbox said:
:poop:
was leaving the local LC club meeting, and had a pretty terrible start, 1x crank over and then it died (didnt really seem to turn over all the way)
1x of cranking and nothing
1x of cranking and then it finally started, @lumbee1 noted of a lot of gas smells as I pulled away.
Lots of flickering of lights, which leads me to thinking about a bad ground in the engine, but I had used the electrics manual earlier, and fixed all of the bad grounds in the engine bay, maybe I will re-check those tomorrow.

I also got a lot of hissing when I tanked up earlier in the day, charcoal canister time?
www.autozone.com

Duralast Vapor Canister VC120

Shop for Duralast Vapor Canister VC120 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.
www.autozone.com www.autozone.com
Click to expand...
I did this with my charcoal canister. I believe @fourtrax did the same.

forum.ih8mud.com

I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good!

In the past I rebuilt my canister but recently the problem popped back up and once I experience a problem 3 times I change directions and look for a final fix. The canister has 3 lines - 1 - comes straight from the tank with a one way valve at the canister < the problem 1 - goes to the VCV...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
Broski said:
Is that cruiser jinxed, you seem to have more then your fair share of bad luck with it.
Even with all the love you have be pouring into it. :doh:
Click to expand...
I am trying to un-jinx it, I dont think any of the PO's (6) showed this vehicle much love

I did do some looking / ordering of stuff, the fusible link has exposed wires, so the little fusible link junction box, and 2 fusible links are on order.
 
roflbox said:
I am trying to un-jinx it, I dont think any of the PO's (6) showed this vehicle much love

I did do some looking / ordering of stuff, the fusible link has exposed wires, so the little fusible link junction box, and 2 fusible links are on order.
Click to expand...

Where did you order links from?

I've got an order for a couple of them via Toyota, Japan that's been on back order since September.
 
mudgudgeon said:
Where did you order links from?

I've got an order for a couple of them via Toyota, Japan that's been on back order since September.
Click to expand...
It looks like Toyota Parts Deal has them in stock...they have been hard to find
 
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