- Thread starter
- #481
neat, today I learned!
and that does make sense, the interior did feel a bit more "airy" with the doors sound insulated, a bit hard to describe
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and that does make sense, the interior did feel a bit more "airy" with the doors sound insulated, a bit hard to describe
I tracked subs for 20 years so we dealt with sound pressure a lot
- Thread starter
- #483
Finally, after many moons of putting my mountain bike on the inside, I have installed a bike rack
Bumper: Dobinsons with dual swingouts
Rack: 1up USA heavy duty rack
Hitch: found this on etsy: High Clearance Hitch - Etsy - https://www.etsy.com/listing/877793399/high-clearance-hitch
The rack took a little bit of modification to allow the swingouts on my bumper to still work
The problem:
The right arm in this position cannot rotate any further to the left, which blocks the spare tire from swinging outwards
The solution is to remove this corner with a hacksaw:
That allows the right arm to move just far enough to the left so the rear tire carrier can swing outwards, and the trunk can be accessed
Bumper: Dobinsons with dual swingouts
Rack: 1up USA heavy duty rack
Hitch: found this on etsy: High Clearance Hitch - Etsy - https://www.etsy.com/listing/877793399/high-clearance-hitch
The rack took a little bit of modification to allow the swingouts on my bumper to still work
The problem:
The right arm in this position cannot rotate any further to the left, which blocks the spare tire from swinging outwards
The solution is to remove this corner with a hacksaw:
That allows the right arm to move just far enough to the left so the rear tire carrier can swing outwards, and the trunk can be accessed
- Thread starter
- #484
Finally installed a new winch, the old one gave up the ghost at Relic Run (saving a beautiful aqua 40 series)
Replaced the old winch with a Warn Evo 12k
Ended up needing to get some spacers made up via send cut send (Needed 3/4" of spacing from the front bumper, so got 6x 1/4" spacers cut there)
Actual install of the electronics box was a bit more of a PITA than anticipated, ended up needing to loosen the front trim piece by the winch.
Replaced the old winch with a Warn Evo 12k
Ended up needing to get some spacers made up via send cut send (Needed 3/4" of spacing from the front bumper, so got 6x 1/4" spacers cut there)
Actual install of the electronics box was a bit more of a PITA than anticipated, ended up needing to loosen the front trim piece by the winch.
- Thread starter
- #485
lets see here
for reasons I will be soon finding out, one of the rear axle seals that I have resealed previously has failed, curious to see what that is
while I am in there, will be redoing the rear brakes, and actually trying to bleed the system better this time
other than that, not much new to report, just oil changes
I supposed at some point I should stop being lazy and actually get a new windshield, since I have had a gasket sitting in the house for a few years
and while I am at it, suppose I should bite the bullet on a bathroom remodel
and it would be good to fix my slice
for reasons I will be soon finding out, one of the rear axle seals that I have resealed previously has failed, curious to see what that is
while I am in there, will be redoing the rear brakes, and actually trying to bleed the system better this time
other than that, not much new to report, just oil changes
I supposed at some point I should stop being lazy and actually get a new windshield, since I have had a gasket sitting in the house for a few years
and while I am at it, suppose I should bite the bullet on a bathroom remodel
and it would be good to fix my slice
Sense the spindle is none replaceable on the rear axle most likely there’s a wear spot where the seal rideslets see here
for reasons I will be soon finding out, one of the rear axle seals that I have resealed previously has failed, curious to see what that is
while I am in there, will be redoing the rear brakes, and actually trying to bleed the system better this time
other than that, not much new to report, just oil changes
I supposed at some point I should stop being lazy and actually get a new windshield, since I have had a gasket sitting in the house for a few years
and while I am at it, suppose I should bite the bullet on a bathroom remodel
and it would be good to fix my slice
@roflbox time to delete the LSPV
I picked up my union from Autozone M10x1.0 double flare (I think)
Here's my notes from a previous thread in 2017:
There are really two hardlines coming from the front to the LSPV and one line that goes out. The bottom line in the LSPV is the sense line, the top line is the pressure line. I removed the sense line and put the union between the pressure line and the output line to the rear brakes. At the T hear the master cylinder, I removed the other end of the sense line. I cut the sense line and removed the fitting. I welded up the hole in the fitting and reinstalled it into the T.
Now I have full line pressure to the front and the back with nothing to adjust. Others that have installed manual proportioning valves found that 50/50 works best. This makes sense because the front calipers are much larger than the rear. There was originally some concern about the rear locking up and possibly causing the truck to rotate. This method keeps the ABS so if the rear brakes do lock up, ABS will control the stop.
I tested this with panic stopping on an empty road. While I came close to ABS engaging it never did. 35" tires weigh quite a bit more than the factory spec tires. Braking performance with EBC Greens on Toyota rotors was and is nothing short of amazing. I now have no interest in removing the ABS pump.
BTW, I was forced to either replace the LSPV or get rid of it. Mine was starting to leak from the bottom. I tried to rebuild the LSPV but eventually gave up and threw it in the trash.
Deleting the LSPV was easy.
Deleting ABS was a bit more involved and required pushing and pulling brake hardlines. Making them look somewhat good afterwards was a challenge.
At the time I couldn't find a M10x1.0 double flare plug. That's why I saved the fittings from the brake line and welded up the hole in the center.
I picked up my union from Autozone M10x1.0 double flare (I think)
Here's my notes from a previous thread in 2017:
There are really two hardlines coming from the front to the LSPV and one line that goes out. The bottom line in the LSPV is the sense line, the top line is the pressure line. I removed the sense line and put the union between the pressure line and the output line to the rear brakes. At the T hear the master cylinder, I removed the other end of the sense line. I cut the sense line and removed the fitting. I welded up the hole in the fitting and reinstalled it into the T.
Now I have full line pressure to the front and the back with nothing to adjust. Others that have installed manual proportioning valves found that 50/50 works best. This makes sense because the front calipers are much larger than the rear. There was originally some concern about the rear locking up and possibly causing the truck to rotate. This method keeps the ABS so if the rear brakes do lock up, ABS will control the stop.
I tested this with panic stopping on an empty road. While I came close to ABS engaging it never did. 35" tires weigh quite a bit more than the factory spec tires. Braking performance with EBC Greens on Toyota rotors was and is nothing short of amazing. I now have no interest in removing the ABS pump.
BTW, I was forced to either replace the LSPV or get rid of it. Mine was starting to leak from the bottom. I tried to rebuild the LSPV but eventually gave up and threw it in the trash.
Deleting the LSPV was easy.
Deleting ABS was a bit more involved and required pushing and pulling brake hardlines. Making them look somewhat good afterwards was a challenge.
At the time I couldn't find a M10x1.0 double flare plug. That's why I saved the fittings from the brake line and welded up the hole in the center.
- Thread starter
- #488
I finally got around to pulling the axle out / ordering parts.
The axle does not have any grooves or wear marks where the seal rides out by the flange, going to pull the hub housing off and take a look at what else is going on.
I was expecting to find a nasty groove in the axle where the seal sits, but did not
The axle does not have any grooves or wear marks where the seal rides out by the flange, going to pull the hub housing off and take a look at what else is going on.
I was expecting to find a nasty groove in the axle where the seal sits, but did not
Have you considered running no seals and lubing the wheel bearings with gear oil.
- Thread starter
- #490
hokay so
made some further progress, and made it to where the inner hub seal sits
There is a groove that I can feel with my fingernail, and it gets deeper the further out from the vehicle one goes.
Based on what seems like the slow build up of crapola inside of the brake shield, this seems to have been going on for a little while.
I was eyeing up the terrain tamers kit:
www.terraintamer.com
"WBK3HP"
That seems to be the best solution here other than finding another rear axle to swap out?
thoughts?
made some further progress, and made it to where the inner hub seal sits
There is a groove that I can feel with my fingernail, and it gets deeper the further out from the vehicle one goes.
Based on what seems like the slow build up of crapola inside of the brake shield, this seems to have been going on for a little while.
I was eyeing up the terrain tamers kit:
WHEEL BEARING KIT HIGH PERFORMANCE REAR
WHEEL BEARING KIT HIGH PERFORMANCE REAR
www.terraintamer.com
That seems to be the best solution here other than finding another rear axle to swap out?
thoughts?
That’s a significant groove. Are those the grease seals that rotate around themselves? Might be worth trying them. If it were my 80 and I had no thoughts of selling, I’d probably start shopping for a better housing.
- Thread starter
- #492
yeah, these are the ones where the seals rotate around themselves
I will probably install those just this side for now, and then see if I can find a set of axles to stash in the crawlspace
Speedy sleeves
yeah, these are the ones where the seals rotate around themselves
I will probably install those just this side for now, and then see if I can find a set of axles to stash in the crawlspace
Looks like the Terrain Tamer seals are the long term solution. I would go ahead and pick up seals for both sides (while you're in there).
- Thread starter
- #495
I ended up pulling off the brake shield today to measure for a speedi-sleeve, and the measurement of the spindle I came up with was 62mm diameter, and 33mm long.
Looking on the SKF website, they only have 62mm dia x 15mm long, going to do some more digging around to see if I can find a longer one.
Might need to go with terrain tamers as a backup, though I like the speedi-sleeve as a simpler solution.
Looking on the SKF website, they only have 62mm dia x 15mm long, going to do some more digging around to see if I can find a longer one.
Might need to go with terrain tamers as a backup, though I like the speedi-sleeve as a simpler solution.
- Thread starter
- #496
also rounded a bolt off in one of these 
, thankfully not NLA (nor too expensive to need to try and drill out the broken bolt)
47629-60010
also need to order:
90249-08075 *1
90213-06013 *4
90468-14004 * 4
90249-08075 *2
47625-60022 * 1
47634-60010 * 1
2x WBK3HP from terrain tamer
90116-08325 * 6
42323-60010 * 6
47491-22020 * 2
90201-08042 * 6
90170-08204 * 6
and while I am *ahem* in there:
might as well re-seal the pinion for the rear diff
90311-38047
41252-35020
90201-22007
, thankfully not NLA (nor too expensive to need to try and drill out the broken bolt)47629-60010
also need to order:
90249-08075 *1
90213-06013 *4
90468-14004 * 4
90249-08075 *2
47625-60022 * 1
47634-60010 * 1
2x WBK3HP from terrain tamer
90116-08325 * 6
42323-60010 * 6
47491-22020 * 2
90201-08042 * 6
90170-08204 * 6
and while I am *ahem* in there:
might as well re-seal the pinion for the rear diff
90311-38047
41252-35020
90201-22007
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