the DSRTRDR is getting some TLC . . .

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New bling! Hitit66 made this for the project, very nice!:cool:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/795186-landcruiser-custom-label-emblem.html

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:lol: I posted about his emblems in the 80 section, too :D
 
Does it look like this? Trying to decide if I am brave enough to glue it on, or should I have opted for the magnetic backed one? John

Double stick tape, the 3M stuff at the shop will work perfect.
 
Does it look like this? Trying to decide if I am brave enough to glue it on, or should I have opted for the magnetic backed one? John

I got the exact same one from him for the 80 - not sure yet where I will stick it - thinking inside :hhmm:

the one for the 40 will go inside, too - either on one of the window vents or the dash :cool:
 
Back to the '40, got some stuff done, lots of fiddly, fitting type stuff that isn't worth pix.

The trans mount crossmember is a "kit" from Dave/Lcwizard/4+Plus. Just basic parts that require some massaging, finishing. They came flat, so, bent/dented/trimmed them into a shape that will work. Stuck some tabs on the ends to bolt to the frame brackets, them stuck them together.

Made mount tabs with backing plates to weld onto the frame. Stuck it all in.:hillbilly:

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loving all the fab work :bounce:

wait a second, that thing is leaking ? :bang:
 
Now that the trans/transfer are sitting where they will live, time to make the shifters fit.

The trans shifter just needed some straightening in the press to get it out of the seat.

The transfer needed a little more, was way too far forward.
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wait a second, that thing is leaking ? :bang:

Hope not, it doesn't have any oil in it!:hillbilly: It has all new seals, so, shouldn't leak, or not too badly! Haven't cleaned it yet, will happen when it comes back out.
 
Have two shifters, the vacuum one, won't work, but has nice boots and is the rubber filled type, and the solid type that is too far forward. So cut them in half and grafted the vacuum top onto the manual shift lower.

Came out pretty good, fits, shifts well.:hillbilly:
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Next up was to get drive shaft measurements. So needed to get the rear axle in position, moved back an inch and the pinion angle set. The lower plates on the flip kits were only drilled for the center hole, off they came to get new holes. Admiring the manglage, the plates and shock mount studs look like bananas. Dave builds them damn solid, just not Claudia proof!:hillbilly:

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Have to have something to bolt the drive shafts to? The flanges are the later stud type, looked into getting the later slip ends for the drive shafts, didn't find an easy path. Looked at universal flanges, but these are in good condition, so.

Pushed the dust shields and studs off. Marked and drilled the new pattern, it worked! The new pattern is much smaller, so wasn't sure there would be room for the nuts/wrench, it's close, there isn't any extra room, just enough.

Put the rear drive shaft on, and it fit! U-joint angles look acceptable, good to go. The front one will need 4" added, so, off to be retubed.

Test fitted the speedo cable extender, looks like it will work.
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I remembered to load up the spare drive shafts in my rig this afternoon. John
 
Keep in mind we're Germans. The "I can mangle anything" in her sig never was a joke.

:hillbilly:

I'm fully a believer. It takes special talent to punch a spring pin shoulder through the mount steel like this! :hillbilly:

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If the pin welds itself to the bushing - it will do just that on the thrust side when cornering . Took me awhile to figure out why a few vehicles I've worked on did that , every pin was dry and stuck tight to the bushing . I'm wondering if there isn't an issue with fitment of the sleeve to the pin ....?
Sarge
 
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I'm fully a believer. It takes special talent to punch a spring pin shoulder through the mount steel like this! :hillbilly:

can't I blame the spring pin ? :hillbilly:

:lol:

I mean, I have been wheeling this rig ever since I got it - not a whole lot of pavement driving in the past 10 years :steer:
 
Constant side loading against the spring mounts will eventually force the pin to act as a cutter , it's tough to stop this but keeping the pins lubed really good does help . Wish there was a way to create a larger surface area where the pin contacts the spring mount/shackles to slow down wear issues .
Sarge
 

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