Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[Vae Victus]

Ah. Good to know. Thanks for documenting. Looking forward to getting into this part of the build. (Tranny is dragging on - last 20% taking forever syndrome)

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Ah. Good to know. Thanks for documenting. Looking forward to getting into this part of the build. (Tranny is dragging on - last 20% taking forever syndrome)

I have been following! Seems like quite the PITA. Debating whether or not I want to bother with the complete overhaul when I get there, or if I would be better off resealing it if it looks OK, and calling it a day!

 

[Vae Victus]

I have been following! Seems like quite the PITA. Debating whether or not I want to bother with the complete overhaul when I get there, or if I would be better off resealing it if it looks OK, and calling it a day!

That ^^^

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Out with the old, in with the new. Traded in my 60-series caliper cores for some fresh ones, along with new pads and rotors.

Apparently, they don't sell loaded calipers for the 60 series anymore, but they seem pretty easy to figure out. Can't wait to get out of the house with all the clean stuff, and start tearing into the 40 again!

One thing I did notice is that there were some shims behind the brake shoes I pull out of the old calipers. The new stuff didn't come with them - guess I will need to do some research there!

 

[want2wheel]

The "shims" are used to hemp make the pads not squeek. Your new ones may have a coating on the that does the same thing. If they dont you can use a product that you put on the back of the pads that does the same thing.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Thanks - that pretty much confirms what I was reading last night - that a lot of companies no longer manufacture their brake shoes to require shims. I'll just lube them up good when I install them, and call it done!

 

[Vae Victus]

You give up? Too cold?

Question, did you remove the whole axle and move it inside, or just the knuckle from the truck? I'm trying to device if, in this crappy weather, I can more easily work with the axle off.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

You give up? Too cold?

Haven't given up! I've just been jumping all over the country for the last couple weeks for work. Now, I'm slated to be on a plane to Costa Rica this Thursday for vacation, but, of course, they're calling for another snow storm...

When I return, it will be full speed ahead, on to paint.

Question, did you remove the whole axle and move it inside, or just the knuckle from the truck? I'm trying to device if, in this crappy weather, I can more easily work with the axle off.

The answer, currently, is neither - Stumpalama was kind enough to separate the knuckles from his FJ62 axles for me, and give me just the components I needed (Birfs, knuckles, steering arms, hubs, brakes). I've been working on these inside.

When the time comes to put the FJ62 parts on the 40 axle, I plan to pull the entire axle. This is primarily for four reasons:

1. I'll be pulling the differential and resealing/checking gear lash (and swapping front/rear).
2. I'm repainting the axle housing
3. I'll be doing a lot of grinding, not just to fit the 62 birfields, but also to remove a bunch of PO "welded" extras that will be easier to get to with the axle out.
4. In places, I have some annoying clearance issues due to the V8 that makes working on it in the truck a little tougher.

I'm planning on doing that part outside, when the weather warms up a little! Those axles are not light and I don't want to move it any more than I need to.

You can easily rebuild the knuckles on the truck, I'm just going a little "deeper" than that so it makes sense for me to pull the axle.

 

[pb4ugo]

FYI, You might want to separate the 3rds while the axle is in the truck and then remove it. They are sometimes hard to get out of the housing. I put a jack under the 3rd to help break it loose.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

FYI, You might want to separate the 3rds while the axle is in the truck and then remove it. They are sometimes hard to get out of the housing. I put a jack under the 3rd to help break it loose.

That's the plan! I was planning to pull the axle shafts, then disconnect the 3rd, then loosely bolt the wheels back onto the hubs, disconnect the front shackles, and roll the axle out.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Daylight savings update

Another long silence, and not a lot of progress to update. Spent 9 days in Costa Rica - where I saw more 40 and 70 series land cruisers than I ever thought possible. Lots of inspiration down there! Many trucks in far worse condition than mine still being driven daily - it gives me hope! The roads down there necessitate something like an FJ40. We rented a Daihatsu Terrios, and I definitely wished I was driving a 40!

I also returned from the trip with a fiance! My girlfriend of 5 years decided that, even with the old rusty truck obsession, I was worth keeping around!

Another week in Denver for work followed, along with another snow storm - lots of delays. Dying for some warm weather so I can get to painting these 60-series parts, and taking apart the 40!

Back to tech:

While progress has ground to a halt due to travel and cold weather, I have been slowly collecting parts.

Amazon:
SUR&R Nickel Copper Brake Line (25ft) - I will need more than this I think, by looking at it...
Tubing Bender
Tubing Cutter

Summit Racing:
Wilwood Proportioning Valve WIL-260-12627
Wed-on tombstone hose brackets - seem like the diameter is too wide, so I may be revisiting this
44mm (slightly longer) Rear wheel studs (Dorman 610-265), to accommodate Poser's rear disc brackets

Fed Hill:
Two dozen 10mmx1.0 flare nuts

Up next are caster shims and U-bolts from Georg.

Pictures:

1. The fiance, taking engagement very seriously

2. The important stuff: Spankin' new truck parts.

Hopefully planning (and funding) a wedding won't add too many more delays - I'm dying to get back to work!

 

[DSRTRDR]

on the engagement

your days of truck parts in the bedroom will soon be over ;p

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

on the engagement

your days of truck parts in the bedroom will soon be over ;p

Haha, thanks! and good eye - that's actually my old bedroom at my parents' house. Truck parts don't even make it to my house, since I don't have a shop/garage. Half the issue with this project is that all work is done "off-site" with a 30 or 45min drive time between the garage and me, or my dad's shop and me. Makes making time a real commitment!

Hoping to alleviate that in a little over a year - First objective post-wedding is buying a house. My only requirement in a house is a 2 car garage. The rest of the house can belong to

 

[Vae Victus]

Congrats Rick! Woo woo.

No more money for parts now that you have a princess.

If I don't have 2 rolls of 25' of that same brake line, I'll split a new one with you. If I do, then, I'll split mine with you.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Congrats Rick! Woo woo.

No more money for parts now that you have a princess.

If I don't have 2 rolls of 25' of that same brake line, I'll split a new one with you. If I do, then, I'll split mine with you.

Thanks! The agreement when I bought the truck two years ago was that she could buy a horse - so if she threatens to take away my (already limited) FJ40 slush fund, I have a bargaining chip, since the horse is easily 2X more expensive to maintain! Plus - fiance and clustertruck have been living in harmony together for the better part of two years, and her father has 5 classic cars...so, she is accustomed to "the life." (I chose wisely).

I have two 25' rolls - I'd be happy to send you some. My only concern is, I just made a couple of "practice bends" today - and I may burn through half a roll "practicing." It is not as straightforward as it seems!

Bending to a correct degree angle (45, 90, etc) is easy. Getting the bend in the right place is an entirely different story! I was going to post pictures of my early efforts, but quite honestly they were shameful enough that I was embarrassed to do so. Something tells me flaring will be easy in comparison to bending!

Honestly, it may be easier to bend by hand than use the bending tool - the trade off being it will look worse. Time will tell!

Long story short: depending on how far off you are from bending and flaring - I will happily send you any tube I have leftover.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

When you can't work on your truck - you spend too much time on Amazon. When you spend too much time on Amazon, you end up buying tools you don't need...

Mostly I'm just testing out some new ways up upload images, seeing if I can embed them mid stream...

Borrowing the SST from a fellow MUD Member - hopefully the weather will warm up soon so I can finally paint these parts, and pull the axles! This winter has been way too long, and I have made way too little progress.

 

[Vae Victus]

Just left Cayman today. No trucks seen but the weather was supreme. Now back to Nashville where it is 30 again. Ugh.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

At long last - some warm weather! Got all the knuckle parts cleaned up and primed today. Getting the loose rust, old grease, etc. off these things is an arduous task. Letting the primer cure for 24 hours, will hopefully top-coat it tomorrow. The temperature is still close to the minimum for the paint, so I set up this makeshift paint booth/space heater combo to give the parts a warmer atmosphere to dry in. I really like how the Eastwood Chassis Black Primer has laid down so far. Hopefully I get good adhesion!

 

[chappohj47]

That is a great idea mate

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Thanks, aside from the obvious fire hazzard or running a space heater next to a cardboard box filled with aerosol fumes, I thought it was a good idea! You can't see it in the picture, but I had a mouth thermometer stuck in the other side of the box, away from the heater, to monitor the interior temperatures. Surprisingly enough, it was actually more difficult to keep the inside of the box BELOW the recommended max of 90F, than above 70F. (almost worked too well).