Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota (1 Viewer)

[RWBeringer4x4]

So finally, I'll pose these questions here too, in an effort to elicit a response:

The hub seems to work fine (locks when "lock" is selected, spins when "free" is selected). BUT:

1. When switched to lock, I get a small amount of turn before it "pops" and locks into place. I'm assuming this is just the play necessary to find a tooth in the gear, but want to confirm.

2. I get a small amount of "in-and-out" play when I grab the inner hub gear. It's only about 1.0mm, almost as if the C-clips are a little thin. The spacer didn't seem particularly worn. Is this normal play for this assembly or a cause for concern?

 

[Vae Victus]

Once again, you rock. I'm days behind you on this, so very timely!

 

[DPV7070]

Looking good duder! I remember the first time I went through all of that work. It was a good learning experience, right up until I did it again to swap to discs...:doh!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Once again, you rock. I'm days behind you on this, so very timely!

Thanks! Does your 76 have WARN's or AISIN's? I'm curious to see the difference. My current hubs are WARN, so I guess I could take one apart and find out.

Looking good duder! I remember the first time I went through all of that work. It was a good learning experience, right up until I did it again to swap to discs...:doh!

Thanks @DPV7070! - since you have done this before: do you recall any play in the hub gear when reassembled? (see my two questions above). I'll be back in the shop tomorrow, hopefully, and I'll take some video if I don't find a clear answer before then.

 

[DPV7070]

2. I get a small amount of "in-and-out" play when I grab the inner hub gear. It's only about 1.0mm, almost as if the C-clips are a little thin. The spacer didn't seem particularly worn. Is this normal play for this assembly or a cause for concern?

I can visualize exactly what you're saying, but when I rebuilt mine I replaced the c-clips, rubber o-rings, and springs, etc. I don't recall there being any play, before or after the rebuild, but I'm sure as long as it locks and unlocks it should be fine.

 

[Vae Victus]

Finally moving forward!

The 72mm head from the harbor freight driver kit is a perfect fit for the smaller of the two races (out/hub side).

Same went for the large race on the axle side. The 81mm driver fit perfectly here.

FYI. OEM brand driver (loaner tool from AutoZone) is the 2.830" on the small side and the large side is the 3.180" driver. Nice thing about the AutoZone one is you can return it when you are done.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

FYI. OEM brand driver (loaner tool from AutoZone) is the 2.830" on the small side and the large side is the 3.180" driver. Nice thing about the AutoZone one is you can return it when you are done.

View attachment 895573

Yes, but I'm always looking for an excuse to buy tools anyway! Hopefully when it comes time for the NEXT project vehicle, I will have a fully equipped shop. I also can't tell you how nice it has been to have tools on hand to fix my daily driver. My Mazda is at 80,000 miles and the fiancé's Altima is at 120,000 - we both commute an hour to work so having the right tools to keep the commuters on the road has been key!

But mostly - I just like buying tools

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Managed to get the second hub rebuilt before spending time with mom on Sunday. Both exhibit similar play so I'm going on the assumption this is normal.

Also inspected my new (NAPA rebuilt) 60 series master cylinder. Pulled the rear plug to find that there was no residual valve, which has left me confused...

I won't need it for my (all disc) application but sources seem to suggest there should have been one in the rear circuit...just glad I'm not trying to put it in a stock 60!

 

[Vae Victus]

Thanks! Does your 76 have WARN's or AISIN's? I'm curious to see the difference. My current hubs are WARN, so I guess I could take one apart and find out.

Aisin (?) ASCO hubs.

 

[Stumpalama]

FYI. OEM brand driver (loaner tool from AutoZone) is the 2.830" on the small side and the large side is the 3.180" driver. Nice thing about the AutoZone one is you can return it when you are done.

View attachment 895573

I just use the old bearing race turned over and a piece of 2x4.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Started prepping the truck to pull the axles today:

Dropped the Auxillary Tank, which was held in by 3 out of 4 of the long bolts through the floor:

I was pretty happy with the condition of the rear sill, now that I can finally see it. It's rusty, but not cancerous:

It also appears that the aux tank was ENTIRELY plumbed for action, just never finished. There's a second set of fuel lines running to the back of the truck, along with this weird octopus of tubing under the rear bed that seems to have been set up to tie the two fuel systems together. Sorry it's blurry, but any idea what these are:

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I also pulled the old, trashed steering stabilizer:

I was annoyed to find the PO had mounted the stabilizer by welding a tab to the axle (badly) then running a bolt through the steering stop, then welding said bolt to a nut, which was also welded to the tab (home made captured nut/tack-weld to stake?) At any rate, more fodder for the angle grinder:

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I have been worried about putting the truck up on jack stand's in its current garage. It has a loose sandy/dirt floor that I was worried would be too unstable to safely work under the truck/pull the front axles. I tried putting it up today, and my fears were confirmed - Pretty rickety, even with the stands sitting on plywood - and not something I'd bet my life on, as demonstrated by my friend, Brent:



As such, it looks like I'll be topping off the brake fluid, and driving this thing to somewhere with a concrete/asphalt surface. In the meantime, I'll be heading down to another friend's place on Wednesday to get my hubs/rotors/wheel studs all pressed back together.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Reassembly continues:

Decided, last minute, to pull the old knuckle studs and replace with the torx-head style. The threads/nuts turned out to be kind of buggered up (possibly my own doing while cleaning). Plus, I like the concept of having knuckle studs that can be easily torqued down, without double-nutting.

Torqued to ~50ft/lbs with my Goliath torque wrench.

I also confirmed that there is definitely no residual valve in my FJ60 master cylinder. Nor is there any difference between the front and rear nuts. I guess you're supposed to re-use the one from your old master cylinder? Luckily, I'm going to discs, so this should not be an issue.

Then I took a trip down to my buddy Colin's, and had new wheel studs, and new rotors, pressed onto the hubs:

Not readily apparent from the picture, but the metal supports from the press did a number on my shiny new paint job . Not sure it's worth cleaning up - they are just hubs, after all. That said the perfectionist in me is screaming "fix it."

 

[Stumpalama]

Yeah, if you don't hit with a quick touch up, it'll bother you constantly. Wrap a towel or rag around the disc and spray. Then just wipe any over spray of with some brake kleen and a clean rag.
Looking good BTW.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Yeah, if you don't hit with a quick touch up, it'll bother you constantly. Wrap a towel or rag around the disc and spray. Then just wipe any over spray of with some brake kleen and a clean rag.
Looking good BTW.

Thanks! And thank you, once again, for the parts! Hope you, the family, and the 40 are all doing well.

 

[Stumpalama]

No need to thank me, you paid for 'em . I'm glad they are serviceable and contributed to your new addi...err...umm...hobby.
All are well and growing. Fi was helping me rebuild a carb the other night. She kept reminding me "righty tighty, daddy, righty tighty."
Gotta start 'em early.
We'll see you on the trail in no time.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

No need to thank me, you paid for 'em . I'm glad they are serviceable and contributed to your new addi...err...umm...hobby.
All are well and growing. Fi was helping me rebuild a carb the other night. She kept reminding me "righty tighty, daddy, righty tighty."
Gotta start 'em early.
We'll see you on the trail in no time.

Awesome! She's already got the basics. Once you have her trained send her up my way, I need all the help I can get!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

There is nothing quite like a one hour drive in your FJ40 with failing brakes to get you amped up and committed to your 4-wheel disc conversion. Beautiful weekend for a drive, but it was a harrowing one to say the least:

Drove the 40 from my friend Brent's garage up to my fiance's father's driveway, as he graciously lent me some pavement to perform the conversion. I think the 40 fits right in with his veritable pile of projects:

Upon arrival, I discovered that the real issue with my brakes, all along, had been the Master Cylinder. I'd topped off the reservoirs before I left, knowing there was a leak in the system somewhere (I had assumed a rear wheel cylinder). As it turns out, apparently, the seal between the front and rear circuits in the master cylinder had failed. My rear circuit was half drained, and my front circuit had overflowed.

Happy I made it in one piece. Even more happy I have an FJ60 Master Cylinder on hand to swap in during this project!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

With all that said, I dove into the teardown of my drum brakes. As it turns out, my front axles, while covered in 40 years of crud, we actually not that desperate for a rebuild. But it is a good thing I dumped the differential fluid:

Lots of particulates on the drain plug, some significant. Nothing worse than I found in the transmission, but I'll be pulling the diff to give it a once over. I'm hoping nothing is critically wrong with it!