Builds The Beverly Build (1 Viewer)

[TexFJ]

Got the fuel tank back in.
Tested the FP by shorting the Fp and B+ lines and I heard the pump running.

I thought the pump stops when it reaches a pressure, but I guess not I hear the fuel running through the lines around the engine (I'm hoping it's not dumping fuel into the cylinders and it's just going back into the tank. I'm hoping that the pressure regulator just let's it pass by.

 

[TexFJ]

Cranking but won't start... just thought I would get lucky...

Checked codes and I'm getting 22 and 31...




22 is a temp sensor...
31 is the dreaded Air Flow Meter....

 

[RevISK]

Cranking but won't start... just thought I would get lucky...

Checked codes and I'm getting 22 and 31...




22 is a temp sensor...
31 is the dreaded Air Flow Meter....

View attachment 3872224

When was the last time you cleaned your Cold Start Injector?

I was throwing those codes and was pulling teeth, AJ @aljollano told me to clean my CSI, again.
Been amazing since.

 

[TexFJ]

Air Mass Meter/sensor tested all good per repair manual.

 

[TexFJ]

Put it back together and Voila! Not sure what I did except assumed some connections just needed to be refreshed.

 

[TexFJ]

Saw the oil pressure sensor wasn't working so I checked on that... whoops..

And guess what, it's all connected (err disconnected) from the air mass meter.

 

[TexFJ]

Fixed the wires... codes are gone... engine still only runs for 4-5 sec then stutters down. (any suggestions?).

Going to look into sparks, vacuum leaks, and fuel pressure regulator? There's always cleaning of the injectors but engine only has 140k miles on it.

 

[TexFJ]

could it be because I'm just running off the cold start injector? hmmm......

 

[TexFJ]

Nice little debugging method to test your fuel pump and Air Flow meter.

Lift up the air filter cover and reach in with your had and move the flap... if your key is in the On position, you should hear the fuel running through the system. This is how the car handles the transition from the FP running from the STA position (while starting) to the ON position. Once the ECU detects the air flowing, it runs the FP through AFM.

This was my problem... one of the grounds going to the AFM was chewed up, and after taking the harness apart to repair.... BAM.

 

[TexFJ]

after starting the car... noticed squirting of ATF from the side of the transmission... a nice little fragrance for the garage.... I'm a sucker for ATF.

 

[RevISK]

after starting the car... noticed squirting of ATF from the side of the transmission... a nice little fragrance for the garage.... I'm a sucker for ATF.

I've got a few gallons of ATF left over from the sad time of my life when I was perfecting the destruction of A440f's. All yours if you want.

 

[TexFJ]

I've got a few gallons of ATF left over from the sad time of my life when I was perfecting the destruction of A440f's. All yours if you want.

hell ya....

 

[TexFJ]

On to the brakes...

a couple of lines were rusted out right where the clamps were attached. Once the rubber lining cracks, it lets the two metals touch and either corrosion happens due to the mismatched metals or the vibration just wears the protection from the lines off.

Also replaced the har dline with a soft hose on one of the sides. II like hard lines better but you use what you have left over from your other cruisers.

 

[TexFJ]

My pedal isn't acting accordingly... fluid pumps out of the front lines but not the back.

First I thought it was my LSPV, but I wanted to check out the master cylinder first as I'm really scared to break anything on the LSPV.

In the middle of bleeding the master cylinder, I noticed that upon a break pedal depression the front hole shoots fluid out, but not the second. Not sure it's supposed to be doing that, perhaps this is exactly the reason why the back isn't getting fluid. (although doesn't the front line have a splitter that feeds the front AND the back, hence the two lines going to the LSPV?????)

 

[TexFJ]

Changed the master cylinder with a rebuilt one from Autozone. pretty much same price as the kit costs from Toyota. Gonna hold off on the booster as the pedal is now sinking after startup.

For some reason one of the slave cylinders isn't hooking up with the new brake line, i'll need to fix that but she's running and driving.

Next comes:

- Exhaust
- Rust holes
- New Radio
- windows
- interior

 

[TexFJ]

The Oxygen Sensor bracket that was welded on to the pipe was half way gone, so I made it all the way gone. I can buy the pipe from Rock Auto or save this thing.

Slee O2 Bung seems kinda expensive. $49 + shipping
Rock Auto front Pipe: $53 + Shipping

But, I went the DIY way:

Yotashop bung. $20. (welding required )

 

[TexFJ]

Had to build up the metal as the bung was flat and not concave as the Slee one... seems that's where the extra cost comes in.

Decided to cover the ugliness with JB Weld and stop any leaks and rust opportunities.

"JB for my Bunghole"

This is actually kind of fun, instead of buying new parts, making the parts you have work. I guess I could have cut out the bung myself but.....

 

[RevISK]

That literally did make me laugh with enough volume to be heard.

 

[TexFJ]

33"s seem to clear quite easily. thanks @CenTXFJ60