Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

[GA Architect]

GAA - You may want to re tighten all your cooling hoses as well.
BTW, I also recommended re torquing on thread #396.

Did he say anything about retorque the head?

After few 100 miles or so

Remembered this thread on it:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-cylinder-head-retorque-method.816753/#post-9344605

Johnny - no mention about re-torquing the head bolts from the machinist nor the mechanic.

Goodness sakes! I was totally unaware of re-torquing these....Good Grief! Looks like I need to study the FSM on head bolts.

Ok, I'll re-torque the head bolts. Any others bolts I need to be concerned with re-torquing, less the oil pan? This type of stuff is going far beyond my Mechanic's Pay Grade.....I sure hope that statement about, "it's a 2F, it's too stupid to die." holds true. See, it is times like these when I wish there was an experienced wrench in my area that would be willing to lend a hand.

Thanks Mike & Johnny C

 

[JohnnyC]

The problem with retorqing the head bolts is there is I run the center that can only get to by removing the rocker assembly... I have known many who don't do that one

It's a bit of a PITA to be done correctly... But it forces you to readjust your valves then... As that should also be done then as well

GA is a huge hike from NY to come over and help ... But... If you were closer

Move to NY ... The salt is calling you... I can hear them saying 'we want your cruiser'

 

[GA Architect]

The problem with retorqing the head bolts is there is I run the center that can only get to by removing the rocker assembly... I have known many who don't do that one

It's a bit of a PITA to be done correctly... But it forces you to readjust your valves then... As that should also be done then as well

GA is a huge hike from NY to come over and help ... But... If you were closer

Move to NY ... The salt is calling you... I can hear them saying 'we want your cruiser'

I was just pondering over my rig a moment ago, and it occurred to me, I had better have a chat with the machine shop before I go off and re-torque his artwork. I'd hate to void a warranty by being ignorant, but I also want to do what is best for my Land Cruiser.

I could live in the Cooperstown area, was there three years ago with my son's baseball team. The scenery isn't any different than here in North Georgia, but the temperatures are though....and the Cruiser Cancer causing salty winter roads are not too appealing. What else you got to offer up there?

 

[JohnnyC]

I could live in the Cooperstown area, was there three years ago with my son's baseball team....,

What else you got to offer up there?

Good idea about asking the shop... That covers your butt

I used to know of two shops (on Long Island) that would purposely not mention it to customers in the hopes that if anything happened to the engine ... They are covered... Because the customer never had the engine gone over after 200 miles to retourqe stuff... So they would put the blame on the customer ... Luckily both shops are no longer in business ...


There are lots of crooks these days... Not saying your shop is by any means ... But... You HAVE to be knowledgeable ... And using the Mud resource is a good way to do that

I know Cooperstown ... VERY nice town... My great uncle had a home there that they just sold... Was in his family for the last 100 years... I would even love to move there lol love old historic homes... You have lots in GA I know... You even have 'The General' ( something I obsessed over when growing up )

What else does NYS have?

Taxes

 

[GA Architect]

Started to make progress on my water pump installation last night. First, got the radiator drained. Was told this could be messy, so I took a WalMart bag, rolled it up, taped the side to form a tube, loosed up the drain stopper a little, took two small zip-ties and cinched the bag/tube to the drain cock, put a 5 gallon bucket under the tube and finished removing the stopper. The radiator drained into my "Poor Man's" funnel and into my bucket with no mess. Here have a look.


Once drained I started loosening and removing parts to make way to the water pump. All was going smooth until the fan clutch removal. I was told that I could remove this & radiator fan shroud at the same time. Having messed with it for an hour, at about mid-night, I came to the realization that I'm going to have to remove the radiator to get this out. I can't get the fan clutch off the two studs that are left on the water pump. There is just not enough room between the fan and radiator to clear these bolts. I'll remove the new radiator tonight and pray I have steady hands as to not damage the fins. Here are a few photos of my progress.


Oh, forgot to mention, with a recommendation as to what sealant to use for the water pump, picked up the below yesterday. It is the OEM Toyota FIPG 00295-00103 Black silicone. Now, to figure exactly how to apply this in my water pump application. Having a hard time finding photos showing the sealant installed on the water pump and/or gasket.

Picked up 5 gallons of the below....from Wally World.

Today, I'm picking up a Gates Green Stripe II TR24449 (& TR24438) fan belt to match the new one that was installed for the crank/WP/ALT/AC. This will replace the existing NAPA 25-22434 belt on the Crank/WP/PS (Sarge's famous Can-of-Ham!).

 

[Weber Sarge]

If you want a really leak-free install , I've used Permatex The Right Stuff a lot of water pumps and oil pans - this stuff is basically rubber in a self-dispensing tube . Doesn't take a lot , never leaks but can be a pain to remove later . The FIPG I believe is a non-hardening RTV type and should work fine ..just a thought .

Cannned Ham on a Toyota , ugh...lol .

Sarge

 

[Solace in Solitude]

You're getting there, Rick!

Couple of things... I split my fan shroud to make it easier to remove and replace... of course, I had to get it off the first time. ON 44, there are 4 bolts on the front of the fan, that hold it to the clutch... I removed those and was able to get to the water pump. But, my water pump came with a broken bolt, so I had to remove the radiator anyway, to make enough room to weld a nut on the broken bolt and remove it. Plus, I had to clean the block, before installing the new pump.

FIPG works fine for this... just apply a bead around the plate on the face of the water pump ... you'll see where, once you have it off and can see how it mates to the block.

You realize the Prestone you have is already diluted, right? 50% water and 50% coolant. Just want to be sure you realize it and don't dilute it further.

HTH

 

[GA Architect]

Good idea about asking the shop... That covers your butt

NOTE: To anyone who reads this post, the below is NOT intended to start a FIRE STORM about what should or shouldn't be done to (my) head bolts or valves. It is my 2F, my rig and my responsibility.....I am in no way endorsing this procedure, I'm just a lowly Architect......."NOTED"

Thus, I hate to post this follow-up because this is going against most/if not all of the well respected Upper Echelon Mechanics in this Forum.
But, as stated, it is my rig and my responsibility as an owner/customer. So, in order not to void my engine work, here is what my machine shop said when asked the question about re-torquing the head bolts and valve adjustments at less than 200 miles:

".....with your motor, the build procedure involves torquing the head bolts in three stages and once the final torque is applied, the motor sits for a period and the procedure is done once again. The fact is, those head bolts are massive and I would doubt they will need another torque. You should also be aware that some people recommend loosening the bolts and re-torquing and we firmly disagree with this idea.

We have yet to have any issues with this on any other 2F we have done.

The same applies to the valve adjustment. The lash is set once and after the head bolt re-torque, the adjustment procedure is done a second time, then double checked. I'm not sure what Toyota recommends as a valve lash check interval for routine maintenance but I see no reason that it would need more than that."

WARRANTY: He said, and on paper, that should I have any issues with my rebuilt 2F, he would be more than happy to repair/replace the damaged parts. All he wants is a Happy Customer. And from his responsiveness to my email & phone calls, I'd have to say he will stand behind his work....And for that, I am Grateful.

Nothing but Peace, to my Land Cruiser Brother's & Sister's!

 

[GA Architect]

You're getting there, Rick!

Couple of things... I split my fan shroud to make it easier to remove and replace... of course, I had to get it off the first time. ON 44, there are 4 bolts on the front of the fan, that hold it to the clutch... I removed those and was able to get to the water pump. But, my water pump came with a broken bolt, so I had to remove the radiator anyway, to make enough room to weld a nut on the broken bolt and remove it. Plus, I had to clean the block, before installing the new pump.

FIPG works fine for this... just apply a bead around the plate on the face of the water pump ... you'll see where, once you have it off and can see how it mates to the block.

You realize the Prestone you have is already diluted, right? 50% water and 50% coolant. Just want to be sure you realize it and don't dilute it further.

HTH

Danny - Thanks for the info. However, I never do anything the easy way it seems, no matter how straight forward it is. My water pump has studs to attach the fan clutch, not bolts. Two of them stayed in place and off came the nuts. While the other two back them-self out, nut & stud, and are stuck right now between the back of the fan clutch mounting plate and the fan clutch itself.

As for the antifreeze I acquired....the reason for the 50/50 purchase.....IH8MATH....

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Danny - Thanks for the info. However, I never do anything the easy way it seems, no matter how straight forward it is. My water pump has studs to attach the fan clutch, not bolts. Two of them stayed in place and off came the nuts. While the other two back them-self out, nut & stud, and are stuck right now between the back of the fan clutch mounting plate and the fan clutch itself.

As for the antifreeze I acquired....the reason for the 50/50 purchase.....IH8MATH....

Sorry... I meant studs and nuts... it's been a while.

 

[JohnnyC]

hay if thats what he says then your done

dont worry I'm not going to attack what he says or what the book says or start making comparisons between... but...

Mr.T wouldnt be happy however LOL


Now get it done already

 

[GA Architect]

hay if thats what he says then your done

dont worry I'm not going to attack what he says or what the book says or start making comparisons between... but...

Mr.T wouldnt be happy however LOL


Now get it done already

If only I was more skilled with one of these...."".....I sure don't want Mr. 豊田 佐吉 Sakichi Toyoda rolling beneath the soil.

FWIW - I do have a torque wrench, and I do know how to use it when set at 90#. I can read, I have an FSM and I like post #33 (2nd statement) from one the most well respected Land Cruiser mechanics around.

Enough of that....now to more pressing issues, the water pump. Like Johnny C said, "get it done".....Dang, just wish RockAuto's warehouse was next to my office.

 

[GA Architect]

Progress last night, got the radiator, fan shroud, fan, and fan clutch removed. Now I have room to wrench on that pesky ole water pump.



Whooot - Whoooot......small victories, me so happy!

 

[GA Architect]

An update. I may not have made a mess draining the radiator, but when I unbolted the water pump..........a huge mess was made. Goodness sakes, my 5 gallon bucket probably had 2 gallons in it, so the other half of coolant capacity is in the block below the top outlet of the water pump. And there is about 4 plus inches between the top outlet on the WP and outlet on the block.....It had to go some where, so my basement floor was it's best option.

None the less, It's almost ready for the new water pump. Minor clean up, get the new WP and I'll be set to reverse the sequence.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Are you going to fully drain the block and the heater(s) too, and start over with all new coolant, Rick?

In case you aren't aware, there is a block drain plug on the drivers side, roughly under and between cylinders 5 & 6.

 

[GA Architect]

Are you going to fully drain the block and the heater(s) too, and start over with all new coolant, Rick?

In case you aren't aware, there is a block drain plug on the drivers side, roughly under and between cylinders 5 & 6.

Yep, block drain...knew it was there. My feeble mind didn't process the difference between the top outlet of the water pump and the lower discharge on the block. I can process it now. But I thought I was good to go on the WP removal, and that the coolant was drained as needed, oh was I wrong. I'm learning, albeit a little at the time.

What is the old saying; "Give a man a fish, he eats one meal. Teach a man to fish, and he feeds himself for life."....Good thing I have some Toyota manuals to help along the way.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

There's your trouble, Rick! You're mixing up fishing and wrenching! You gotta stay focused!!

 

[fj401978]

What is the old saying; "Give a man a fish, he eats one meal. Teach a man to fish, and he feeds himself for life."....Good thing I have some Toyota manuals to help along the way.

You'll be so much happier when you finish, knowing that YOU worked on/fixed your own truck, and you will have become so much 'closer' to it, now that you know it intimately! Kudos for jumping in there and tackling this yourself!!

Skip

 

[GA Architect]

Ugh....Package arrived yesterday, right water pump box, but wrong part inside.....packaged for return and dropped at FedEx....once they got the notice that FedEx had the return package, another part has already been sent. West Coast to East Coast shipping, 5 days.

I'm trying here.

 

[upperblack]

That's frustrating.