90466-41008
This is the cool clamp for the upper hose I like
This is the cool clamp for the upper hose I like
Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40
- Thread starter GA Architect
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Would this same size work for all the larger radiator hoses?
Sure.
what are the Pro's and Con's if any of the traditional Double Wire Bayonet Clamps used on day 1 PLANT A11 and the new generation spring tension clamps ?
- pro's of each
- con's of each
- pro's of each
- con's of each
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Spring tension have to be close to the exact size needed for the application. Bayonet can be manually adjusted but there is a possibility they could work loose. In rust belt climates I prefer the spring tension because they still come off easy when they are rusty with just a pair of pliers.what are the Pro's and Con's if any of the traditional Double Wire Bayonet Clamps used on day 1 PLANT A11 and the new generation spring tension clamps ?
- pro's of each
- con's of each
i have always thought the original double wire DAY 1 PLANT A-11 clamps were 2 lines of defense , essentially 2 clamps in one a primary and a secondary ?
There is probably a whole tech article on them somewhere.i have always thought the original double wire DAY 1 PLANT A-11 clamps were 2 lines of defense , essentially 2 clamps in one a primary and a secondary ?
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I imagine for a manufacturer spring clamps are the fastest to install in a production line and cheapest.
Green Bean
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Since I am a visual person, here is a screenshot of 90466-41008.
They are visually pleasing. I use them up high where I can see them. The “snip” they make when you pull the tab is beautiful
GA Architect
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Constant Tension Band Clamp update:
(number needed) - OEM Wire Hose Clamps => Constant Tension Band Clamps => ABA 316 SS Worm Drive Clamps
(x2) - 96112-10330 (ID=33) => 96134-52600 => Size 10
(x2) - 90460-49062 (ID=49) => 90466-41008 => Size 20
(x1) - 96111-10500 (ID=50) => 90466-41008 => Size 24
(x3) - 90460-58013 (ID=58) => ( yet to find a cross reference ) => Size 28
(number needed) - OEM Wire Hose Clamps => Constant Tension Band Clamps => ABA 316 SS Worm Drive Clamps
(x2) - 96112-10330 (ID=33) => 96134-52600 => Size 10
(x2) - 90460-49062 (ID=49) => 90466-41008 => Size 20
(x1) - 96111-10500 (ID=50) => 90466-41008 => Size 24
(x3) - 90460-58013 (ID=58) => ( yet to find a cross reference ) => Size 28
My biggest concern with the spring tension clamp is that there’s no way to adjust the tension if it leaks. As an OEM stock product, one can be 100% certain to have the correct size for the fitting size and hose thickness. However, unless a replacement hose is the same thickness and hardness, the tension may not be enough to create a seal.
Add onto that aftermarket parts, engine swaps, upgraded parts, etc… and I’ll take a screw clamp any day.
I’ve not yet tested out the snazzy new double wire screw clamps that @ToyotaMatt sent me with the high quality custom metal line he fabricated to my specs for me. In the the past I’ve generally discarded the double wire clamps I’ve taken off. Most have been destroyed in the removal process (since they were 25-30 years old).
I’ve never trusted used spring clamps that are 20+ years old. Most of the hoses on the E350 I’ve been working on the most (recently) are inaccessible once it’s all assembled, and therefore I replaced them screw type ones. Unfortunately, unlike a Landcruiser, it takes 30-45 minutes to remove all the pieces that are in the way of changing the fuel filter… and even with those things removed it’s like working under the coffee table with a blindfold on and one hand tied behind your back.
Add onto that aftermarket parts, engine swaps, upgraded parts, etc… and I’ll take a screw clamp any day.
I’ve not yet tested out the snazzy new double wire screw clamps that @ToyotaMatt sent me with the high quality custom metal line he fabricated to my specs for me. In the the past I’ve generally discarded the double wire clamps I’ve taken off. Most have been destroyed in the removal process (since they were 25-30 years old).
I’ve never trusted used spring clamps that are 20+ years old. Most of the hoses on the E350 I’ve been working on the most (recently) are inaccessible once it’s all assembled, and therefore I replaced them screw type ones. Unfortunately, unlike a Landcruiser, it takes 30-45 minutes to remove all the pieces that are in the way of changing the fuel filter… and even with those things removed it’s like working under the coffee table with a blindfold on and one hand tied behind your back.
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how come only up high Nolen ?
other then the pleasant visual detail ?
the rest of your nice engine bay relies on the double wire traditional type PLANT A-11 ones ..
how come you don't have the spring tension ones on the remainder of your hoses
thanks for your comments , this is a neat topic to explore ....
ok ,
some clarity maybe ...
en.wikipedia.org
Many types are available, including :
The first patent for a worm-drive hose clamp was granted to Swedish inventor Knut Edwin Bergström [se] in 1896 [1] Bergström founded “Allmänna Brandredskapsaffären E. Bergström & Co.” in 1896 (ABA) to manufacture these worm gear clamps.
Other names for the worm gear hose clamp include worm drive clamp, worm gear clips, clamps, band clamps, hose clips, and genericized names such as Jubilee Clip.
Many public organizations maintain hose clamp standards, such as Aerospace Industries Association's National Aerospace Standards NAS1922 and NAS1924, the Society of Automotive Engineers' J1508, etc.[2][3]
Pairs of screw clamps on a short rubber tube form a "no-hub band," often used for attaching sections of domestic wastewater piping, or used for other pipes as a flexible coupler (to fix alignment difficulties or to prevent pipe breakage due to relative movement of sections) or an emergency repair.
A hose clamp used to hold the leather in place while tying-in the bag of bagpipes.
They can also be used in a similar way, as a simple means for the transmission of small amounts of power. A short length of hose is clipped between two shafts where vibration or variations in alignment may be taken up by the flexibility of the hose. This technique is well adapted to use for mock-ups in a development laboratory.
This type of clamp was marketed in 1921 by ex Royal Navy Commander, Lumley Robinson, who founded L. Robinson & Co (Gillingham) Ltd., a business in Gillingham, Kent. The company owns the trademark for Jubilee Clip.
Similar types of clamps for hoses include the Marman clamp, which also has a screw band and a solid screw.
Interlocking plastic clamps, where the large Fin Clip Base is designed for overlocking and interlocking the jaw to the required tightness.
T clamps are designed for high pressure pipes and hoses such as turbo pressure hoses and coolant hoses for high pressure engines. These clamps have a small grub screw that pulls the two halves of the clamp together to securely fasten heavy duty hoses.
A pair of spring clamps, intended for use on automotive fuel lines
Spring clamps are typically made from a strip of spring steel, cut so that one side has a narrow protrusion centered on the end, and the other side a pair of narrow protrusions on either side. The ends of these protrusions are then bent outwards, and the strip rolled to form a ring, with the protruding tabs intermeshing. To use the clamp, the exposed tabs are pressed towards each other (typically using pliers), increasing the diameter of the ring, and the clamp is slid onto the hose, past the portion that will go onto the barb. The hose is then fit onto the barb, the clamp expanded again, slid onto the portion of the hose over the barb, then released, compressing the hose onto the barb. Clamps of this design are rarely used for high pressures or large hoses, as they would require unwieldy amounts of steel to generate enough clamping force, and be impossible to work with using just hand tools. They are commonly used on automotive cooling system hoses several inches in diameter, for example on most water-cooled Volkswagen automobiles.
Spring clamps are particularly suited for confined or otherwise awkward places where other clip types would require tightening tools applied from narrow and possibly inaccessible angles. This has made them particularly popular for applications such as automotive engine bays and for securing barb connections in PC water-cooling.
A simple spring clamp, used on an automotive vacuum hose
Another type of spring clamp, typically only used on vacuum hoses, is just a piece of spring steel wire bent into a loop, with the ends curled to provide handles. These are used similar to standard spring clamps, but are just pinched by hand, and provide very little clamping force. Rather than attempting to seal a hose into a barb, they just place a slight pressure on the hose, helping to keep it from sliding off the barb.
To ensure a good seal, the barb, hose nipple, or beaded tube must be smooth and free of nicks, scratches, or contamination. Stuck hoses should never be removed by slitting them, as this can leave a scratch on the fitting which will cause a leak.
The other goal of a hose clamp is to provide mechanical attachment keeping the hose attached to a barb, hose nipple, or tube. To do this the clamp is typically placed on the hose behind the first ramp of the barb or behind the raised area near the end of and completely around the circumference of the hose nipple or tube called a bead. If the hose were to slide the clamp would have to expand to fit over the barb or raised bead. This keeps the hose attached to the barb, hose nipple, or beaded tube.
Hose clamps are frequently used for things other than their intended use, and are often used as a more permanent version of duct tape wherever a tightening band around something would be useful. The screw band type in particular is very strong, and is used for non-plumbing purposes far more than the other types. These clamps can be found doing everything from mounting signs to holding together emergency (or otherwise) home repairs.
Another handy attribute: worm-drive hose clamps can be daisy-chained or "siamesed" to make a long clamp, if you have several, shorter than the job requires.
Some things seen assembled with hose clamps include the tail boom on a GMP Cricket model helicopter, a homemade gas scooter, makeshift pipe hangers, mounts for rooftop TV and shortwave antennas, and virtually every imaginable automobile body component.
Hose clamps are commonly used in the agriculture industry as well. They are used on Anhydrous Ammonia hoses and are made from a combination of steel and iron. Anhydrous ammonia hose clamps are often cadmium plated to prevent rust and corrosion.[4]
some clarity maybe ...
Hose clamp - Wikipedia
Many types are available, including :
Screw/band (worm gear) clamps[edit]
Screw clamps consist of a band, often galvanized or stainless steel, into which a screw thread pattern has been cut or pressed. One end of the band contains a captive screw. The clamp is put around the hose or tube to be connected, with the loose end being fed into a narrow space between the band and the captive screw. When the screw is turned, it acts as a worm drive pulling the threads of the band, causing the band to tighten around the hose (or when screwed the opposite direction, to loosen). Screw clamps are normally used for hoses 1/2 inch diameter and up, with other clamps used for smaller hoses.The first patent for a worm-drive hose clamp was granted to Swedish inventor Knut Edwin Bergström [se] in 1896 [1] Bergström founded “Allmänna Brandredskapsaffären E. Bergström & Co.” in 1896 (ABA) to manufacture these worm gear clamps.
Other names for the worm gear hose clamp include worm drive clamp, worm gear clips, clamps, band clamps, hose clips, and genericized names such as Jubilee Clip.
Many public organizations maintain hose clamp standards, such as Aerospace Industries Association's National Aerospace Standards NAS1922 and NAS1924, the Society of Automotive Engineers' J1508, etc.[2][3]
Pairs of screw clamps on a short rubber tube form a "no-hub band," often used for attaching sections of domestic wastewater piping, or used for other pipes as a flexible coupler (to fix alignment difficulties or to prevent pipe breakage due to relative movement of sections) or an emergency repair.
A hose clamp used to hold the leather in place while tying-in the bag of bagpipes.
They can also be used in a similar way, as a simple means for the transmission of small amounts of power. A short length of hose is clipped between two shafts where vibration or variations in alignment may be taken up by the flexibility of the hose. This technique is well adapted to use for mock-ups in a development laboratory.
This type of clamp was marketed in 1921 by ex Royal Navy Commander, Lumley Robinson, who founded L. Robinson & Co (Gillingham) Ltd., a business in Gillingham, Kent. The company owns the trademark for Jubilee Clip.
Similar types of clamps for hoses include the Marman clamp, which also has a screw band and a solid screw.
Interlocking plastic clamps, where the large Fin Clip Base is designed for overlocking and interlocking the jaw to the required tightness.
T clamps are designed for high pressure pipes and hoses such as turbo pressure hoses and coolant hoses for high pressure engines. These clamps have a small grub screw that pulls the two halves of the clamp together to securely fasten heavy duty hoses.
Spring clamps[edit]
A pair of spring clamps, intended for use on automotive fuel lines
Spring clamps are typically made from a strip of spring steel, cut so that one side has a narrow protrusion centered on the end, and the other side a pair of narrow protrusions on either side. The ends of these protrusions are then bent outwards, and the strip rolled to form a ring, with the protruding tabs intermeshing. To use the clamp, the exposed tabs are pressed towards each other (typically using pliers), increasing the diameter of the ring, and the clamp is slid onto the hose, past the portion that will go onto the barb. The hose is then fit onto the barb, the clamp expanded again, slid onto the portion of the hose over the barb, then released, compressing the hose onto the barb. Clamps of this design are rarely used for high pressures or large hoses, as they would require unwieldy amounts of steel to generate enough clamping force, and be impossible to work with using just hand tools. They are commonly used on automotive cooling system hoses several inches in diameter, for example on most water-cooled Volkswagen automobiles.
Spring clamps are particularly suited for confined or otherwise awkward places where other clip types would require tightening tools applied from narrow and possibly inaccessible angles. This has made them particularly popular for applications such as automotive engine bays and for securing barb connections in PC water-cooling.
A simple spring clamp, used on an automotive vacuum hose
Another type of spring clamp, typically only used on vacuum hoses, is just a piece of spring steel wire bent into a loop, with the ends curled to provide handles. These are used similar to standard spring clamps, but are just pinched by hand, and provide very little clamping force. Rather than attempting to seal a hose into a barb, they just place a slight pressure on the hose, helping to keep it from sliding off the barb.
Wire clamps[edit]
Wire clamps consist of a piece of heavy wire, typically made of steel, first bent into a tight U, then formed into a ring shape with one end overlapping the other, and finally the ends bent outwards and cut. A captive nut is attached to one end, and a captive screw is attached to the other end. When the screw is tightened, the overlapped ends of the wire are pushed apart, tightening the wire loop around the hose. For an explanation of why this design is used, see the section on sealing the connection.Sealing and mechanical strength[edit]
One of the fundamental goals of most hose clamps is to ensure a tight seal between the hose and the barb, preventing the working fluid from escaping. To this goal, they are designed to provide even pressure on all sides, with no gaps. An example of this would be wire clamps. An obvious design would seem to be simply having a wire around the hose, one end attached to a nut, and the other end to the screw, and when tightened, pulling the ends of the wire towards each other. However, this will leave a gap where no pressure is applied (underneath the screw), and cause a leak. To combat this, the more complicated and weaker design of having the ends overlap and then be pushed apart from each other is used, as this ensures pressure around the entire circumference of the hose.To ensure a good seal, the barb, hose nipple, or beaded tube must be smooth and free of nicks, scratches, or contamination. Stuck hoses should never be removed by slitting them, as this can leave a scratch on the fitting which will cause a leak.
The other goal of a hose clamp is to provide mechanical attachment keeping the hose attached to a barb, hose nipple, or tube. To do this the clamp is typically placed on the hose behind the first ramp of the barb or behind the raised area near the end of and completely around the circumference of the hose nipple or tube called a bead. If the hose were to slide the clamp would have to expand to fit over the barb or raised bead. This keeps the hose attached to the barb, hose nipple, or beaded tube.
Uses and applications[edit]
Hose clamps are typically limited to moderate pressures, such as those found in automotive and home applications. At high pressures, especially with large hose sizes, the clamp would have to be unwieldy to be able to withstand the forces expanding it without allowing the hose to slide off the barb or a leak to form. For these high pressure applications, compression fittings, thick crimp fittings, or other designs are normally used.Hose clamps are frequently used for things other than their intended use, and are often used as a more permanent version of duct tape wherever a tightening band around something would be useful. The screw band type in particular is very strong, and is used for non-plumbing purposes far more than the other types. These clamps can be found doing everything from mounting signs to holding together emergency (or otherwise) home repairs.
Another handy attribute: worm-drive hose clamps can be daisy-chained or "siamesed" to make a long clamp, if you have several, shorter than the job requires.
Some things seen assembled with hose clamps include the tail boom on a GMP Cricket model helicopter, a homemade gas scooter, makeshift pipe hangers, mounts for rooftop TV and shortwave antennas, and virtually every imaginable automobile body component.
Hose clamps are commonly used in the agriculture industry as well. They are used on Anhydrous Ammonia hoses and are made from a combination of steel and iron. Anhydrous ammonia hose clamps are often cadmium plated to prevent rust and corrosion.[4]
brettk
SILVER Star
I need to venture out of the meme threads more often. Excellent work, very clean and thorough.
Rick 's TECH thread here is a SOLID example of how to approach his Technical Preferred approach's , brands and share his version and visions of Teq Mechanical ART
in every way , it's always a POSITIVE place to learn new & needed and shared skill sets too , indeed i have and still do all the time .........
i have been subscribed for years , Rick sets a good example as a SOLID MUD Member , buddy and good friend too
thanks Rick !
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GA Architect
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GA Architect
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This mornings gauge cluster:
This evenings gauge cluster:
Also, after 6.5 hours on the road, here is my Sniper screen.
This evenings gauge cluster:
Also, after 6.5 hours on the road, here is my Sniper screen.
