mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Looking forward to seeing this in Colorado
Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter GA Architect
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GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #1,542
SAS #4 is the catalyst for the Holley Sniper install. Get this done, put some travel time on it, and I'll be ready for Ouray in August.
Same.
Heck yeah. I’m game.
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #1,546
A little progress last night.
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #1,547
More progress:
Installed the coolant temp sensor
Installed the O2 sensor
Removed the old fuel lines & brackets
Also the custom wired carb cooling fan system has been removed as well, and the original washer reservoir will be reinstalled. I've tagged all items and have one box to keep all these items located should need arise to reinstall the original Aisin Carb.
Installed the coolant temp sensor
Installed the O2 sensor
Removed the old fuel lines & brackets
Also the custom wired carb cooling fan system has been removed as well, and the original washer reservoir will be reinstalled. I've tagged all items and have one box to keep all these items located should need arise to reinstall the original Aisin Carb.
Looking good!
Interesting location for the temp sensor. Why not in the head?
JP
JP
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #1,550
I want to keep my OEM temp sensor in place so my original Gauge Cluster's temp gauge still reads.
Michael B
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Rick I understand wanting to keep your original temp gauge function. But keep in mind as you tune the sniper that the block takes a lot longer to come up to operating temperature than the head does. This could have an affect on first starts especially on cold days.
Cactus Camper
SILVER Star
Very close to pulling the trigger on the sniper kit. Thank you for documenting this install.
Temp sender placement is usually a compromise. Some heads do have an extra threaded hole that can be utilized. Sometimes this plug is rusted in place, and not all heads have it. I like to keep the factory gauge functional, so recommend (and have tested both in shop installs) either putting the sender in the block drain or one of the t’stat BSVs (which requires extending the harness sender wiring).
All of three of these have worked well for us and have had no problem meeting and exceeding the 160 degree trigger* for the system.
*edit - “Learning” takes place once ECT has reached 160. If set up in the computer, closed loop can be set with no minimum temp. Default closed loop min. temp is 160.
You have been reading post -EMP books
I have two in that spot and one in the head. I have not noticed any drawbacka to the block.
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #1,556
Making progress
Won't be too much longer.....
Won't be too much longer.....
If I may ask, what did your total inventory to do this cost?
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #1,558
ceylon - I took inventory, but didn't keep up with the accounting. I will say that all the Sniper parts came from Mosley Motors ( @FJ60Cam ). Cam has been very good to work with, answer questions and highly recommend using him as a source for a Holley Sniper kit.
I fabbed up a few brackets for the throttle cable connection to the gas pedal as well as a bracket to hold the Sniper fuse & relay. There are other odds and ends I purchased, which I'll try and go over at a later date.
I'm also installing an electronic FJ60 distributor & coil pack that I've had reworked by a MUD member. As you can see in a pic from a previous post, there is an orange filter. The orange filter (Stihl chain saw gas filter) is for the dizzy intake air, and I've drilled a hole in the bottom of the air filter housing for the suction side.
I will say this, being someone who is very 'attention to detail' oriented, this is taking much longer than it should. But I'm not pressed for time, and I enjoy the solitude of my shop.
Yeah. I like that. Lay it out. Make it right. You will love the end result. It’s really a game changer.
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #1,560
Being the choke cable will no longer be needed for this application, it was removed. Also, I figure with the new electronics, I wouldn't need the vacuum gauge either. In lieu of sourcing the NLA large grommets, here is what I've done. @ToyotaMatt was kind enough to send me one of his large grommet look-a-likes, so it was used in vacuum gauge location. And in place of the choke cable, I've installed a RAM mount 1" ball post. It is here that I'll locate the new diagnostic monitor for the Sniper system.
I still have easy access to the FJ40's knobs below and behind it.
I still have easy access to the FJ40's knobs below and behind it.
