Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (12 Viewers)

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I liked my original gauge cluster refurbish, except for one item. The needle paint! I should have gone with the florescent orange and not the red.....Sooooooo, I found a nice '77 gauge cluster and refurbished that unit. I also wanted to see if I could get some more light out of the LED's, so I took some HVAC silver duct tape and lined all-around the deep edge where the lights hit. I didn't want to remove the light housing as others may have done years ago. With the reflective tape lining, and installation of the Superbright LED's (194-WHP & 194-WHP6), much more light. I really like the 194-WHP in the turn signals & bright light sockets. I guess now that my refurbished original is out, I'll redo it for a 2nd time....

Original gauge cluster refurbishment #1:
View attachment 1496420

Gauge cluster impostor:
View attachment 1496421


i have the paint, need me to send it to you? I painted my white first, then the bright orange. I've got two full bottles that I'll probalby never use for anything ever again!
 
i have the paint, need me to send it to you? I painted my white first, then the bright orange. I've got two full bottles that I'll probalby never use for anything ever again!

Thanks, but I now have a small bottle of the red & orange, and basically a full tube of 3M urethane seam sealer. However, the finished product out weighs any cost associated with these two projects.
 
I like having LED's in my 40. For years I would take it on road trips with the stock 194 bulbs and I would go along barren stretches of highway at night with gauges barely lit. I had to almost squint to see my fuel gauge and amp gauge. For some reason the poor lighting and a 40 year old rig felt like I was driving a old antique that at any time was going to die on me in the middle of nowhere. Now I put too many led's in the gauges, its like a freaking arc weld when I turn those lights on. I don't mind though rather have a little bright then too dim.
 
@White Stripe I am with you brother, mine needs a little more illumination than the old incandescents are giving me
 
Took care of some engine maintenance last night. Installed one of these:
IMG_1291.jpg


and 8-1/2 of these:
IMG_1290.jpg
 
Took care of some engine maintenance last night. Installed one of these:
View attachment 1497139

and 8-1/2 of these:
View attachment 1497140

After reading on here for way to long and me being me on making a decision I finally chose and picked up that same oil last month as well, it has good reviews.

That motor is one clean area. I bet it makes working on much easier. Im always a clean freak on stuff I care about as well.
 
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Being a curious person, I wanted to see how well my engine is doing and what the real oil additive package is in my VR1 20W-50 oil. Here is the Blackstone report from my last oil change.
77 FJ40-170714-Blackstone.jpg




Updated engine photo as well:
IMG_1314.jpg
IMG_1315.jpg
 
So, not being a chemical engineer, what does that analysis mean? Does the lab give you any data to go along with the analysis to aid
in interpretation? (BTW, such a nice clean rig!!)

Cheers!
 
The lab (based of previous data of engine and mileage) knows the ranges of acceptable contamination of metals and silicone and coolant residue.

Anything above those established limits and you'll know what to keep an eye on or investigate (leaky head gasket, worn bearings, incomplete combustion, etc) and hopefully catch a problem before catastrophic failure.
 
So, not being a chemical engineer, what does that analysis mean? Does the lab give you any data to go along with the analysis to aid
in interpretation? (BTW, such a nice clean rig!!)

Cheers!

At the top of the report is a "Comments" section where Blackstone gives you some feedback as to their thoughts on the analysis. I'll have another report done at the next oil change for them to compare.

Note, I didn't tell them I had the engine rebuilt about 2-1/2 years ago. But by the oil analysis and mileage I gave them, they suspected correctly about the rebuild.
 
So they basically do the analysis for you and tell you their findings etc. Not a bad price for that service I guess..Do you plan on sticking with the VR-1 oil after complete break in? (A TLC engine probably needs 5 to 10K to really be broken in!) Curious why you wouldn't go with a synthetic like Mobile 1 or similar?

Cheers!
 
Im surprised their is no molybdenum in the oil. It is supposed to be a really good additive to have in oil afaik. May looks like you could have a picnic on that motor, looks really nice.

Now I'm no Oil Chemist, just a lowly architect, so take this with a grain of salt. This is not to start a pissing contest about oil and their additive packages, but I believe Moly in oil is a friction modifying additive & ZDDP is an anti wear additive. One you shouldn't do without and one you could do without.

:steer:
 
Now I'm no Oil Chemist, just a lowly architect, so take this with a grain of salt. This is not to start a pissing contest about oil and their additive packages, but I believe Moly in oil is a friction modifying additive & ZDDP is an anti wear additive. One you shouldn't do without and one you could do without.

:steer:

Flat-tappet engines (such as all F-series) really need Zinc and Phosphorus (ZDDP) to keep the camshaft from wearing prematurely. No one (in first-world countries) makes flat-tappet engines anymore, so Zinc and Phosphorus have been phased out of motor oil in the U.S. because they kill orphans and puppies and unicorns, or at least are hard on catalytic converters.
 
@GA Architect What does that dryer-vent-hose-like-looking thing do? It's connected to your air cleaner and routes down around your manifold. Don't recall seeing that on a 40 before.

Beautiful engine compartment, by the way.
 

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