Builds The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times. (1 Viewer)

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So heres a tiny bit about my crossmember issue...

It was badly cracked in two places and eventually failed from wall loss via corrosion. It amazes me that a semi-structural component on this truck was built from what effectively amounts to exhaust tubing. I digress..



First I started out by cutting my old crossmember out. I started with an angle grinder and then quickly realized it was going to take hours at that rate. I've got a good idea of that an hour of my time costs, so I broke own and bought a Milwaukee Reciprocating saw. It made short work of it all and I was able to cut the old crossmember very close to the frame and level it out with the angle grinder and abrasive wheel. I also wire brushed the entire area at this point.



Did a rough measurement to see my distance between the rails...



Here is the rough lay out of what I used:



10 FT of 2 in X 2 in .180 wall tubing (Smallest size I felt comfortable using and still being able to get into my Wife's VW Golf.

(2) pieces of 3.5 in x 3.5 in .200 wall plate

(2) Pro Comp P-19 5/8 shock studs

(2) sections of 5/8 ID scrap tubing to weld onto the studs as a sleeve.

I cut the sleeves to length and scored 3 lines in them to allow me to weld the sleeve to the stud, so I wouldn't be relying on welding directly to the stud/tube.








We plug welded the plate to what was left of the old crossmember that was fitted into the frame. This was just a starting point, we then welded around the beveled edge around the plate to the frame. I didn't want to try and fit the crossbar to the truck with the end plates attached to the tube, so I felt I would be better able to control the angles by making it a slight interference fit. I cut the bar a hair long, then I used a rubber mallet to fit it in. We were able to control and hold the angles this way and it wouldn't slip before we could tac it in place. Worked like a charm. I had to grind down the plate after we welded on it a bit. No worries.





Also, I was able to control the Y axis which placed the studs very close to the factory locations by being able to shift the tube on the plate before welding. I had to guesstimate it because my bar was so far gone that I couldn't even measure the offset. I'm no more than .25" off, close enough for my needs.



Welded the studs to the bar and threw a quick rattle can paint job on to rust proof it since I knew I couldn't easily paint it in the truck.



Here it is welded in the truck. I moved the lines on the passengers side of the rail off a bit for this whole process and wrapped them in leather while we welded. I passed the bar through and it fit very well.



This is the best shot of it so far. Ignore the paint pen marks, the tube seemed like the best thing to write on at the time.



***WORD TO THE WISE***

There is an offset in the shocks. They are not spaced evenly. Due to the axle offset, you will have to stagger them slightly off of the drivers side frame rail a bit. MEASURE 6 TIMES AND CUT ONCE!

So I'm into this repair $36 for the 2x2 tube, $12 for the 4 shock studs (only used two, but I lose stuff a lot) and the scrap small diameter tube along with the .200 thick plate was free.50. Welding supplied by one of my best car buddies.

It isn't perfect and I'm not a fabricator. I could have done more prep work and finishing and painted it nicer but for 3 hours of work in the dark I'm not complaining. The truck was sitting on crookedly loaded shocks for who knows how long.

I can now move onto my lift kit with complete and utter confidence.
 
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Coming up on the first oil change since the engine/cooling system refresh, right at 3,000 miles. I'm using CAT DEO 15w40 this time just because.

The engine is healthy and no strange noises at 283,000 miles. I'm very happy with the Trollhole carb and its started in 30 to 90 degree weather without complaining at all. Pulls about 15mpg on pure highway trips. A little less in mixed driving. If I can stay at constant throttle it shines and runs at 70mph all day long with the 33's. I weighed it at a truck scale and it weighs 4500 lbs with a full tank of fuel and the ARB front bumper, without me in it.


I've got the following to do in the near future:
-Rebuild rear drums. They're not super strong, but they work. No leaks but I can tell the rear wheel cylinders are tied.
-Flush coolant system (should have done this more completely and I've mixed several types of green coolant, some good some not...)
-Install OEM thermostat and rebleed system (again...)
-15ohm resistor in temp gauge wire
-Install Kyosan fuel pump and spacer
-Buy an OEM PS pump.
-Buy springs and shocks for a lift kit. I've got low mileage 62 springs I could throw on, but I really want to feel the huge before and after effect of going to Bilstein/OME shocks and the OME springs. If I don't load it down too much, it's still fine.

None of these are preventing me from driving it any less. Just things for later.
 
Have you got the A-pillar gauges mounted yet? Would love to see a pic of them mounted.
 
Why do you want to go with OEM PS pump?
Agreed... get one of Georg's Saginaw kits and be done with it.
Also, Do the 62 springs fit? I thought the fronts were the same but the rear were slightly different.

With the coolant flush, might as well clean out your heater core too since you will be flushing the system. Could help things out some.
 
So the brake brakes are done. It started with the hand brake popping when I disengaged it. The truck wouldn't move until you gave it throttle to "pop" the brakes loose. I left it in gear to avoid this issue. Went months like that.

Then just yesterday I could feel the truck harder move from a stop. Turns out one of the sides is sticking in the rear. I imagine shoe material is non-existent, wheel cylinders are overextended as well as leaking and the drums are out of round with a nice lip on them.

So I'm driving my wifes car and I'm pulling it all apart after work. I've got three days to get it fixed, so once the drums are off and turned I imagine it will hopefully go back together easily after a bit of cleaning.

I'm hoping the back drums are all original just for bragging rights.
 
I've won another battle with the truck. Feels good!

The brakes were a learning experience. I no longer have drums on my roadrunner and I last did a set of them about 14 years ago when I was a youngster. I didn't have the right tools or the patience, but I got it done.

From what I can tell, the drums were done before. Truck is at 286k and the drums and shoes were not original to the truck. The wheel cylinders were original.

I found broken springs and leaking wheel cylinders in the drum when I pulled them out.

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The drums were a little discolored from the shoes dragging, but there were no ridges. Much to my surprise they came off without much drama.

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The wheel cylinders were the main cause of drama. They were sticking and popping, plus the shoes were soaked. They would also lock up inconsistently.

I used the following:

Advics WCT-011 Wheel Cylinders from Rockauto
Centric brake hardware kit from Amazon
Wagner Brake shoes from Rockauto clearance for $1.48

I had SOR braided extended frame to axle lines waiting for this job. I initially thought that because I had changed so much that my soft pedal immediately after bleeding the system 5 times was a huge trapped air bubble in the system or a leaking brake fitting.

Not the case, I had failed to adjust the rear brakes properly which made my hand brake work worse than before (which is hard to imagine, it barely worked at all...) and also I had a pedal what would go to the floor. After adjusting the brakes from 2 full rotations of the drum to 1/2 turn before they stopped, the pedal feels amazing! It feels similar to my Brembo BBK that I had on my old GTI. Very confidence inspiring, a properly tuned OEM brake system (no tacoma/t100 stuff here) with braided lines and a working booster is all that is needed for me. I may differ from most, but I wouldn't ever change out of these factory issued components.

The biggest victory is that my bellcranks and hardware worked fine. The handbrake now works purely from adjusting the rear brakes properly. It will hold the truck at half way up on a steep incline. That in itself makes me like the truck so much more now.

The biggest issue I had was knocking the stud out of the old shoes and pressing it into the new shoes. I wasn't the first one to try and do this, because the knurling threads on the pin were already smashed before I got there.

I'll do this with better OEM shoes the next time I check the adjustment in a few thousand miles.
 
Added a small amp to the radio. Currently have 25w rms off of the head unit (which I don't believe) and I'm going to 45w rms with this Kenwood amp.

It fits behind the dash easily and should get enough air to not clip. This gives the power that my front door speakers are rated at now.

$80 or so on Amazon. If it keeps the mds and highs strong, I'm happy. I may add my old 5.25" speakers to the back doors since I've still got two CH left.

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Initial impressions are great. I can turn the volume all the way up with no distortion. I don't listen to music like that anyway, but it sure is nice for the sound to be clear.

A great upgrade that isn't intrusive at all. I don't want some spud breaking the window on this truck for some visible piece of stereo hardware.
 
Took the old carpet out, cleaned the sending unit and used the rubber diamond plate from Costco to line the back.

Very happy with the drop in noise and it's much more functional.

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I ordered bilstein 5125's and my ome springs will both be here this week.

Currently spraying the suspension with penetrating blaster down daily to hope that it all comes apart next weekend.
 
Also coming in this week-

Ome bushings. I couldn't stand to use the generic poly bushings I had due to age. They're about 10 years old but bnib. Sway bar extensions and caster wedges from @cruiseroutfit

Also a set of interior leds and reverse lights from PFRAN.

I was almost set on ordering the LED H4 bulbs from Amazon after seeing @wngrog bought a set but the thought of a little fan with Chinese bearings didn't make me all that thrilled.

Still debating about a real headlight harness and the 100/80w normal halogen bulbs in my existing hella housings.
 
I've got a lift kit sitting in the back of the truck and I'm here in the kingdom of saudi staring land cruisers every where!

I've tried to find an 60 series Middle East spec steering wheel, but for many reasons I don't think I can make it happen on this trip.

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Leaving Saudi and headed to Dubai on a whim.

As I sit here in the Riyadh airport I just ordered the dual stainless trays with coolant overflow relocation bracket because my factory tray came apart when I replaced headlight bulbs. It's holding but it's only a matter of time before it completely disintegrates.
 
I have a cousin that lives there, is an Autism specialist and she says she absolutely loves it. Supposedly an incredible city to be young in (she is all of 30). Color me jealous, can you PLEAAASSEEEE slip an extra 76series V8 Diesel into your luggage for me!!
 
LC pics from Dubai please! Even 200 series —
There are so many. Gxr as far as the eye can see.

I'm going to take a small road trip tomorrow, I'll snap more pics of what I see. The land cruisers excite me more than the exotics out here.
 
Went to the worlds tallest building today. Burj Khalifa.

Makes skyscrapers look insignificant.

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