The Holley regulator needs an additional filter between it and the pump. The LS is a combo filter/regulator. I had to modify the mounting bracket to space it farther from the frame. If you are using an inline pump, Earls cleanable filters thread directly to it.
Builds Texas Reds - The Tale of Two Red 40’s
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Spark is up next. I am a big fan of the DUI (real one from Davis Unified in Memphis)
These things will lie to you and not seat all the way which is a disaster. So. I add a dab of Indian Head between the gasket and the dissy shoulder. This keeps it in place and makes sure I see it smash when the dissy properly stabs.
I line it up top dead center. On the intake stroke. Turn flywheel until you see the line or the BB and make sure your #1 piston is up (pull #1 plug use a light or a screwdriver)
I always start with new plugs gapped a little hotter than stock at .040
I also use the live wires. Clean clean.
These things will lie to you and not seat all the way which is a disaster. So. I add a dab of Indian Head between the gasket and the dissy shoulder. This keeps it in place and makes sure I see it smash when the dissy properly stabs.
I line it up top dead center. On the intake stroke. Turn flywheel until you see the line or the BB and make sure your #1 piston is up (pull #1 plug use a light or a screwdriver)
I always start with new plugs gapped a little hotter than stock at .040
I also use the live wires. Clean clean.
- Thread starter
- #43
Tools and tricks that I love.
This crimp tool is magic with the heat shrink style
Power probe. This thing sends power where you need it to test. Changes tone when you switch 12v and test volts.
I use the coil switch 12v. Large black with yellow on most Cruisers.
Follow the directions. Program your sniper for your truck.
This crimp tool is magic with the heat shrink style
Power probe. This thing sends power where you need it to test. Changes tone when you switch 12v and test volts.
I use the coil switch 12v. Large black with yellow on most Cruisers.
Follow the directions. Program your sniper for your truck.
- Thread starter
- #44
Then start it up.
Rooster47
SILVER Star
Looks awesome as usual.
Did you or would you consider modifying the heat shield spacer to remove the center rib? It just seems like it's not needed and removing it could only help performance?
A comment in this video had mentioned something related to this that made me think of it:
View attachment 2229861
Did you or would you consider modifying the heat shield spacer to remove the center rib? It just seems like it's not needed and removing it could only help performance?
A comment in this video had mentioned something related to this that made me think of it:
View attachment 2229861
Looks awesome as usual.
Did you or would you consider modifying the heat shield spacer to remove the center rib? It just seems like it's not needed and removing it could only help performance?
A comment in this video had mentioned something related to this that made me think of it:
View attachment 2229861
HA! I just watched that video.
- Thread starter
- #47
Not sure if that makes a difference on these but I’m sure it would not hurt. I’ve got a vacuum leak likely related to using gaskets there instead of trusting the spacer without gaskets. Oh well. Mosley is sending me a fresh one and I will go ahead and cut that out and see. Can’t see it hurting.
I’m headed out of town until next Thursday. I’ll button this step by step up then with the install of the throttle cable but it’s more or less done.
Plugging firewall Holes with 3m caulk strips
I’m headed out of town until next Thursday. I’ll button this step by step up then with the install of the throttle cable but it’s more or less done.
Plugging firewall Holes with 3m caulk strips
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Great work!
- Thread starter
- #49
And in a classic case of “you should quit while you are ahead”
I decided to change out the starter with a gear reduction that Drew wanted. I like these way better.
When I pulled the hot wire off the starter I hit the long brake line for the front brakes and it arched a hole in it right into the curly q section
Unreal. That’s a first.
Then the 22” HD cable would not reach the new post.
@Fourrunner has been summoned for a new cable. And @Cruiser Corps for a new brake line.
I’m out. Great productive couple sessions. Hate ending on a low note but sometimes it’s best to fold em for a few days and recharge.
I decided to change out the starter with a gear reduction that Drew wanted. I like these way better.
When I pulled the hot wire off the starter I hit the long brake line for the front brakes and it arched a hole in it right into the curly q section
Unreal. That’s a first.
Then the 22” HD cable would not reach the new post.
@Fourrunner has been summoned for a new cable. And @Cruiser Corps for a new brake line.
I’m out. Great productive couple sessions. Hate ending on a low note but sometimes it’s best to fold em for a few days and recharge.
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Yikes !!
Crush 4
SILVER Star
Are you throwing the 16” wheels on this baby?
- Thread starter
- #52
No. The Dual FJ45 SWB projects are getting City Racer 16s
- Thread starter
- #53
And I’m back at it. Texas Red 1 is no longer a California pre-runner. Front is down a whopping 4” from before.
Before
After. It’s sitting with a nice 1” rake from the rear now. Tomorrow I’ll get the mechanicals finished up hopefully and get some better photos
These aluminum shims suck. This truck has very few miles in the lift and they were already pancaked out. Steel from Valley Hybrids or don’t use them at all.
Before
After. It’s sitting with a nice 1” rake from the rear now. Tomorrow I’ll get the mechanicals finished up hopefully and get some better photos
These aluminum shims suck. This truck has very few miles in the lift and they were already pancaked out. Steel from Valley Hybrids or don’t use them at all.
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
He is in good hands.
Back to the rest of the story on Red #2. I woke the next day and briefed my wife on a few other details to look at on the 67’ before I headed out for a day full of meeting. My wife took our son to school, stopped by the bank to get some cash and was heading for the 21/2 hour road trip though the hill Country to meet John
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- Boise - Idaho
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- Thread starter
- #58
I sheath all my hard lines with rubber.
Cheers
I try not to arc out battery cables.
- Thread starter
- #59
OK. For those of you reading this for the Sniper Install.....I got it sorted out this morning.
First thing was adding the 25” battery cable from @Fourrunner to reach the gear reduction starter. While I was on the positive terminal I redid some crappy terminal ends.
Because I was out of plugs, I had to drill a hole in the pretty new 60 series isolator to reuse a tube with a cap
Turns out, the adapter had slight clearance issues with the 1977 carb isolator so if you use the Mosley milled adapter then do yourself a favor and buy a new 60 isolator.
The isolator comes with a vacuum port in the base. It’s held in with some white brittle putty that screams potential vacuum leak. I trim it off so it won’t interfere with the throttle cable, cap it with a quality vacuum cap and RTV around it
No gaskets needed with a new isolator base. I did add a tiny layer of Indian Head to each side and to the threads of the screws going into the valve cover side of the adapter. Make sure the 3 posts are in the adapter before you bolt it all down to the intake
I install the sniper to the adapter using the supplied gasket dry on both sides.
Because I had the IAC out of whack due to the past vacuum leak, I could not “find” the recommended 2-8 while at 700 RPM
I used a method @GA Architect had sent me a link to
Basically all you do is put a piece of tape over the IAC hole where I am pointing.
Use the IAC screw to adjust the idle 50 RPM UNDER target idle. In my case 650 RPM ensuring the truck temp is at least 160 degrees.
Turn off the truck. Remove tape.
IAC in the correct range and the Sniper worked its way to my target idle of 700.
First thing was adding the 25” battery cable from @Fourrunner to reach the gear reduction starter. While I was on the positive terminal I redid some crappy terminal ends.
Because I was out of plugs, I had to drill a hole in the pretty new 60 series isolator to reuse a tube with a cap
Turns out, the adapter had slight clearance issues with the 1977 carb isolator so if you use the Mosley milled adapter then do yourself a favor and buy a new 60 isolator.
The isolator comes with a vacuum port in the base. It’s held in with some white brittle putty that screams potential vacuum leak. I trim it off so it won’t interfere with the throttle cable, cap it with a quality vacuum cap and RTV around it
No gaskets needed with a new isolator base. I did add a tiny layer of Indian Head to each side and to the threads of the screws going into the valve cover side of the adapter. Make sure the 3 posts are in the adapter before you bolt it all down to the intake
I install the sniper to the adapter using the supplied gasket dry on both sides.
Because I had the IAC out of whack due to the past vacuum leak, I could not “find” the recommended 2-8 while at 700 RPM
I used a method @GA Architect had sent me a link to
Basically all you do is put a piece of tape over the IAC hole where I am pointing.
Use the IAC screw to adjust the idle 50 RPM UNDER target idle. In my case 650 RPM ensuring the truck temp is at least 160 degrees.
Turn off the truck. Remove tape.
IAC in the correct range and the Sniper worked its way to my target idle of 700.
- Thread starter
- #60
I also like to put the air cleaner on before I do the final adjustments. Like I said, this reading is a bit high on RPM but it took itself there. You DONT use the IAC screw for idle.
Cam supplies a bent rod to mount the air cleaner using the supplied 1/4” wing nut. I trimmed 1/2” off the Sniper side to get a good snug fit all around. I also had to make a bracket for the air cleaner on the front to mount to the valve cover. It’s best to have a nice secure foundation to make sure all the seals work
Cam supplies a bent rod to mount the air cleaner using the supplied 1/4” wing nut. I trimmed 1/2” off the Sniper side to get a good snug fit all around. I also had to make a bracket for the air cleaner on the front to mount to the valve cover. It’s best to have a nice secure foundation to make sure all the seals work
