Temporary Radiator Suggestions? (1 Viewer)

[Broski]

You don't want water in there for a long time. Sounds like it's been in there to long already.
Slap a cheep Radiator in there and get some coolant in there, Geez Wally

 

[jaymar]

You don't want water in there for a long time. Sounds like it's been in there to long already.
Slap a cheep Radiator in there and get some coolant in there, Geez Wally

Working on it.

 

[gummycarbs]

I refer you back to post #1:

( And, yes; I'm aware it's a messed-up situation, thanks. But it is what it is for the moment. )

I refer you back to what I just wrote:

You're currently regularly overheating your engine because you're driving on a blown head gasket and with a leaking radiator that can't even hold pressure and prevent boiling. You're also at risk of water and coolant entering your cylinder(s). How is that better?

"It is what it is"? I just gave you a vastly better game plan. It is what you're going out of your way to make it.

 

[jaymar]

I refer you back to what I just wrote:

You're currently regularly overheating your engine because you're driving on a blown head gasket and with a leaking radiator that can't even hold pressure and prevent boiling. You're also at risk of water and coolant entering your cylinder(s). How is that better?

"It is what it is"? I just gave you a vastly better game plan. It is what you're going out of your way to make it.

If by that you mean the sodium silicate plan, I refer you to Post #9.

If you mean the drop-in-the-new-radiator-plan, I refer you to Post #14.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you're adamant you're not gonna put your shiny new radiator in it, Park it, throw in a rock auto radiator, or kill it

You choose.

Too many times I've rolled the dice and regretted it with vehicles.

 

[jaymar]

If you're adamant you're not gonna put your shiny new radiator in it, Park it, throw in a rock auto radiator, or kill it

You choose.

Too many times I've rolled the dice and regretted it with vehicles.

Yes. Door #2 if I can't swing someone else's working discard.

 

[jaymar]

Something I don't understand; perhaps someone more knowledgeable can clue me in. The temp climbs pretty rapidly. I put in 2-3 gallons before setting out, keep the hood popped but latched, have all heaters on high and coast in N as much as I can. 3-4 miles and I'm at 220. Pour water on rad, do my thing, come back an hour later, pour more water on rad and refill with maybe a gallon and a half. Then I come back, same drill. Temp does not get as high coming back, and in fact--after a mile or two--settles in the high 180s and stays there.

Why the h*ll does it do that? HOW can it do that? To my mind, it should be worse coming back because the engine is starting from a higher temp (145 vs 80 on today's run) and, with the T-stat open, the water from the block can be puked out on its way through the radiator. Water line on the driveway, so it's still leaking when I get home.

I don't trust that return temp reading. Where is the temp sensor mounted, and can it possibly read LOWER if there's no water in that location? Thanks for any help.

 

[mudgudgeon]

No idea ^^^


If you're gonna run it as is, run it with the radiator cap off.
You'll lose less water because the system won't pressurize.

Boiling point will be 100⁰c (whatever that is in fahreedomheit) , not the normal elevated temperature margin you get with a pressurized system

 

[jaymar]

No idea ^^^


If you're gonna run it as is, run it with the radiator cap off.
You'll lose less water because the system won't pressurize.

Boiling point will be 100⁰c (whatever that is in fahreedomheit) , not the normal elevated temperature margin you get with a pressurized system

Interesting thought, never occurred to me. 212F. Toss-up as to whether that makes temp climb faster or slower. Damned if I do, damned if I don't it seems.

 

[KC masterpiece]

I have had an Amazon tyc special for over a year. Temp are great and it's held up fine.

 

[BILT4ME]

Something I don't understand; perhaps someone more knowledgeable can clue me in. The temp climbs pretty rapidly. I put in 2-3 gallons before setting out, keep the hood popped but latched, have all heaters on high and coast in N as much as I can. 3-4 miles and I'm at 220. Pour water on rad, do my thing, come back an hour later, pour more water on rad and refill with maybe a gallon and a half. Then I come back, same drill. Temp does not get as high coming back, and in fact--after a mile or two--settles in the high 180s and stays there.

Why the h*ll does it do that? HOW can it do that? To my mind, it should be worse coming back because the engine is starting from a higher temp (145 vs 80 on today's run) and, with the T-stat open, the water from the block can be puked out on its way through the radiator. Water line on the driveway, so it's still leaking when I get home.

I don't trust that return temp reading. Where is the temp sensor mounted, and can it possibly read LOWER if there's no water in that location? Thanks for any help.

Temperature sensors are designed for the liquid contact.

Indeed, if there is an air pocket, the sensor will read low until liquid splashes on it.

Is the path in all uphill and the path out downhill? Even by a hundred feet elevation?

 

[Broski]

Post # 9 is mostly from running tap water like your doing

Killing it slowly with water, your not doing your self any favors !

 

[mudgudgeon]

Interesting thought, never occurred to me. 212F. Toss-up as to whether that makes temp climb faster or slower. Damned if I do, damned if I don't it seems.

So, I've been in your shoes.
Had a leaking radiator in my hzj105 at a time when I was flat broke. I ran it for months with no radiator cap, and filling with water before every trip to/from work.
With cap in, it would lose water fast, with no cap in, if I forgot to top up the water, I'd get a second trip with some margin for error

 

[gummycarbs]

If by that you mean the sodium silicate plan, I refer you to Post #9.

If you mean the drop-in-the-new-radiator-plan, I refer you to Post #14.

I'm not referring back to any previous posts. You are creating the situation and treating it as unavoidable. You've dug a ditch and now you're refusing to climb out of it for some strange reason. You're just going to end up throwing away more money because of weird ideas you've latched onto.

Register it as non-op and drain the coolant rather than destroy the engine trying to get it to pass emissions.

 

[gummycarbs]

with no cap in

With no radiator cap, your coolant will boil at a lower temperature and be ineffective at cooling.

 

[BILT4ME]

With no radiator cap, your coolant will boil at a lower temperature and be ineffective at cooling.

However, it will remain in the cooling system longer because it will not be pressurized and blow it out.

BTDT. It works. Leave the cap in either the first notch or completely remove it.

 

[bhsdriller]

AND it's time to visit the CA Smog Police, who will run the thing for half an hour AFTER I clear the codes and run it up and down the freeway for twenty minutes.

First i've heard of this maybe it's dependent on what county you're in

I clear codes pulling into the smog station and they just run it and i'm out.

 

[jaymar]

Temperature sensors are designed for the liquid contact.

Indeed, if there is an air pocket, the sensor will read low until liquid splashes on it.

Is the path in all uphill and the path out downhill? Even by a hundred feet elevation?

Ha, the trip out is indeed uphill, about 450 foot elevation difference between home and destination. I take the steeper road home. Didn't mention it because I noticed the same behavior (once; haven't done that trip again) on more level ground. I was under the impression air pockets (surrounded by water) could yield false HIGH readings. Hence my confusion.

 

[jaymar]

Post # 9 is mostly from running tap water like your doing

Killing it slowly with water, your not doing your self any favors !

Only been a few trips that way, Was using distilled when leak was smaller.

 

[jaymar]

So, I've been in your shoes.
Had a leaking radiator in my hzj105 at a time when I was flat broke. I ran it for months with no radiator cap, and filling with water before every trip to/from work.
With cap in, it would lose water fast, with no cap in, if I forgot to top up the water, I'd get a second trip with some margin for error

Interesting, thanks. Before starting, leak is slower with cap off than on and tightened. Dunno about half-turn, or while running.