What kind of condition ( centrifugal advance, the little grommet that crumbles, allowing too much advance, free movement of the “point plate”, vacuum advance unit ) is your large cap distributor in?
Distributor was a good core the was rebuilt by JimC and recurved. Distributor cap and rotor are 2016. I've driven with a broken vacuum advance diaphragm and it didn't cause these problems. It was slow-er than normal but not a drivability issue.
When you say it has 20, are you saying that because you put a gauge on it yesterday to verify that?
Could you run a vac gauge now and into the cab or are you already setup that way?
I put a large gauge on it and checked it in the driveway. No real movement in the gauge to indicate valves or anything RPM related. Actually higher than I expected it to be, but I've got a lot of initial advance in the motor right now. Maybe 12-14*
Battery cables are tight? None of the spark plugs show any bad signs? Intake is tight to the head?
I've got the Forerunner cables, plugs are about 3 weeks old and look good. Intake was resealed in December and I used OEM gaskets throughout. I did forget to put intake/exhaust block off plate in last time, so that is why cracking is a concern. This intake was cracked when I bought the truck and I had it fixed when I did the head 30,000 miles ago.
At 20 inHg stable vacuum, there is no vacuum leak. Also a vacuum leak is most detrimental at idle and less significant as the RPMs increase. You can't really "feel" a minor vacuum leak when cruising.
My guess: it's not a vacuum leak issue.
If a 2F idles fine but hesitates once the gas pedal is pressed down a bit- that's often a fuel delivery problem. Carburetor/fuel filter
Maybe there's some crap in the carb.
I know there are vacuum leaks that are small, but I've got a strong signal and I think I've just tuned around them for my idle. I thought that the biggest deal could heating and cooling of a cracked aluminum intake manifold causing issues based on load and temperature.
Fuel pump is a recent piece from last year, fuel filters get replaced every 3,000 miles because my tank is old. Replaced in 1991. I've got solid fuel in the bowl at idle, the pump shot works when the truck is revved and I've got no issues starting it.
That does sound like symptoms I had when my EGR was sticking. I hit the egr with a hammer while idling to break up the carbon. Then the carbon crud found its way to the bottom of the air cleaner. This resolved it.
Isn't 20 inHg a good healthy number for a 2f?
Make sure your fuel cut solenoid is clicking.
I'm completely desmogged. No EGR left. The motor is running great and has great numbers for a 312,000 mile short block with some refreshing.
Hey Alex, any chance it could be some garbage in your fuel filter? Only time I’ve been stranded on the side of the road (about 12 years ago) in a 60 was due to the filter. Similar symptoms you described as well. I’ve since learned the value of keeping spares
. If not hopefully you resolve this soon.
Fuel filter looks clean, but I'm throwing another filter at it tonight as well as my back up carb. I want to narrow down if my tank is just contaminating past the filter and gumming up the carb. It ran great for me and
@gregnash had it on his truck for a while. I'm not going to do anything but bolt it on and see if that fixes the problem. I hate to be the guy to blame the carb when I've not done my due process.
City Racer carb... how long have you been running it? Is it possible the o-ring at the FCS (fuel cut, idle cut, whatever it’s called) degraded at this point? Fuel at the sight window good?
I put in on in Jan 2018. FCS clicks and works right. Fuel at the window is present while running and the truck keeps fuel for several days in the bowl.
I borrowed a smoke machine, I'm going to fog it tonight and see what I find. Then I'll replace the carburetor.
I'm worried that it's going to lead to a fuel tank being the issue. That would mean that I have three options:
1. Pull what I've got, try to get it restored. Some have warned against this because I may end up stranded if something goes wrong or the tank is overly rusty or thin.
2. Find a good used tank. Restore if it needs work.
3. Buy a LRA tank. A ton of money, but I gain capacity and I can have a module installed for EFI later down the line.
I want to do the last option, but Ive been in a very happy place with the truck being very fault free for 35,000 miles of daily driving that I don't want to spend money that isn't needed. I've know this could be a place I get stuck at for a while. I've already got a tire carrier bumper so a big tank would be a hassle free ordeal.
