Swapping a VW into a 1st gen IFS 4 runner (1 Viewer)

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I completed routing of the lower coolant hose and ufo orb bracket. I'm using the oem 4runner radiator but the cap has been modded it no longer opens/closes with temp.

Installed electric radiator. It's wired to come on with air conditioner and will also come on at set temp.

Slowly sorting wiring, cleaning up the engine bay. Once it's all set I'll be running all new brake and clutch hard lines. This is an insanely in depth conversion. Dash is all wired up.

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The cat on the rover is there to replicate a rover in its natural habit, broken down in the middle of a safari. Surround by murderous felines.
 
Got the battery mounted in its final home. Group 24 is too tall. I need about a 1 inch shorter battery. I currently have maybe a 3/8 " clearance under the hood for the neg battery terminal. .

The cold air intake will have very short routing to where the battery was originally. Lots of wiring clean up the past 2 days.

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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm not going to buy a new battery or tires for her until she's road ready. That will be a few months to year from now. The group 24 in there currently I stole from the little ladies rover when I replaced her alternator.

I was thinking group 34 as it has the same foot print but one inch shorter. I can get it at 850 CCA, the passat "upgraded" battery is approx 765cca.
 
My old glow-plug 1.6L ribbit diesel used a Group 65 battery for it's A-Hr capacity. Running the glow plugs burns a lot of juice, so reserve capacity become more important to a glow plug engine than to a gasser. Still need the CCA to get it to turn over, but now you have other requirements beyond the norm.
 
I think 90 Ahr(maybe 85) is the rating for the stock tdi passat and similar year 1.9 tdi golf/jetta/bug. The group 24/34 is rated 110 and up.

I didn't think the old 1.6 motors were tdi? This motor really doesn't need the glow plugs until the sub 20 degree temps.
 
I had those numbers confused with rated minutes. The stock tdi upgrade battery and group 34 both have @the same 60 amp hoir rating. It's late and the pens drove me to drinking early blowing a 6 to 1 lead
 
The 1.5's, 1.6's, and early 1.9's were IDI's and needed at least 3 of the glow plugs working in order to start on a crisp Flagstaff Spring morning. You can likely guess how I know this......
btw, the g-p behind the IP needed a custom made special tool to make it's R&R only a copper-plated SOB process if you didn't want to mess up the IP timing. W/O that tool you were doomed to spending half a day on it only.
 
This is what I was thinking. I'm not familiar with them but the old pathfinder inboard diesels were 1.6 vw diesel powered and were all idi.

I had both land cruiser 4bd2t and one 4bd1t conversions. Nearly identical motors aside from one idi and one direct injection. The starting was night and day difference even with the mild south east winters. The 4bd1t i never thought about needing a second battery, the 4bd2t I wanted an extra battery any time it got below freezing. The trick for sub 25 degree nights was parking on a hill. Fire push button glow plugs for 20 seconds and pop start.
 
Got the dash somewhat together. I've given up on the "factory clean install " look and made peace with the redneck engineer with a supply of good beer install.

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No work done to the runner since Saturday. Maybe 8 inches of snow. The rover did surprisingly well in the snow...for being a rover. I have a buddy with 60 so I knew I could always call for help if needed. Palm trees and snow look odd

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I need to win the lottery and move to the keys.
 
My bumper made it in. Less than 70 lbs before the winch install. Once this is mounted I can then figure out my intercooler routing/mounting. I dont think this will fit in the back of my passat so it won't be coming home tonight.



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She runs. No power steering, ac or intercooler lines ran so she only got run long enough to check oil gauge. 60 psi cold at idle.


I'm running the factory 4runner fuel pump with Tee right at the fuel filter, the tdi only fed 20 or so psi in the passat and the 22re is likely 40 plus psi. Im using the 1/4" metal lines that were I think emissions lines at one time as fuel feed and return lines. I just bleed the unused fuel back to the fuel tank so the extra psi is of no issue.

I have a ton of wiring to clean up on the passenger side of the engine bay. Not a "hey that looks factory" kinda swap...but she runs. She'll be a great daily driver.

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FWIW I used a Holley by-passing FPR to run a carb (~6psi) on a TBI intended electric fuel pump (~20psi). I considered using a 'T' with a needle valve, but researching that I ran into forum posts where that had been tried in a slightly different set-up (recirculating fuel in an accumulator) and a frequent comment was that the pump would burn up from running too fast.
This is the one that I used: Holley 12-887 Holley Carburetor Bypass Style Fuel Pressure Regulators | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-887
 
That's the first I've heard of fuel pump burning itself up. In the VW/Audi world the tdi (pd style anyway) has the fuel regulator built into the fuel cup housing in tank where gasser equivalents are fuel rail high pressure regulated.
Running a Tee has been a successful long term fix this issue this when tossing a tdi into your gasser vw/audi.

In my case if the fuel pump burns up I'm invovienced on cold start ups. The pd pump will pull from the tank but be harder to start. Not good for it long term to run like this but it will still get you to work and back.
 

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