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Looks like the brake pad wear indicators - so you hear your brakes squeaking when they are about to be toast
Wear indicator (AKA squealer). Go back to post #18. You'll see on a inner pad at top. I find the inner pads wear faster, so I place on an inner. I place on top, because upper fittings seems to stay cleaner. Cleaner, less chance of binding.
With OEM the shim kit (anti-squeal shims). 1 shim each side is notch for wear indicator. Note: Some after market pads come with anti-squeal shim attached.
FSM diagram, doesn't properly illustrate the OEM replacement shim kit we get from Toyota parts dep today.
It show, wear indicator on outer pad at bottom.
With OEM the shim kit (anti-squeal shims). 1 shim each side is notch for wear indicator. Note: Some after market pads come with anti-squeal shim attached.
FSM diagram, doesn't properly illustrate the OEM replacement shim kit we get from Toyota parts dep today.
It show, wear indicator on outer pad at bottom.
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- Thread starter
- #24
Awesome, thank you guys!
I tried fitting them but they keep sliding out, I might have been too generous with the grease on these pads!
I don't care about the indicators then, based on my driving habit and 3k per year, I will most likely not need to check these pads until 10 years.
I have a new set of Akebono pads, should I sell them or it is ok to keep them in dry storage until I need them maybe after 10 years?
I didn't put grease between the pads and the shims that came with it .. ok?
Also, since the caliper arrived assembled, I think the pins are already lubricated and the caliper is ready to mount
"I tried fitting them but they keep sliding out, I might have been too generous with the grease on these pads" I'll assume "THEM" is wear indicators.
To much grease would not result, in wear indicator sided off. Wear indicator is clipped on to the pad, with short end/tab in toward pad/center/rotor disk. Long end sticks out, as seen in post #18.. Then pad is installed. Once installed, the wear indicator is locked in place, between pad and its fitting/clip.
I do, put disk brake grease between pads & sims. But only when shims are clip on. Some are glued to pad. In those I do not, as I'd have to rip (un glue) off pad.
You did put excessive grease on fitting kits clips. Which is okay, but will attracted dirt. You also do not want grease, getting on pads or disk of rotor.
I'd also assume pins are factory greased. But I'd check. I only use Toyota grease, on pins and not much.
To much grease would not result, in wear indicator sided off. Wear indicator is clipped on to the pad, with short end/tab in toward pad/center/rotor disk. Long end sticks out, as seen in post #18.. Then pad is installed. Once installed, the wear indicator is locked in place, between pad and its fitting/clip.
I do, put disk brake grease between pads & sims. But only when shims are clip on. Some are glued to pad. In those I do not, as I'd have to rip (un glue) off pad.
You did put excessive grease on fitting kits clips. Which is okay, but will attracted dirt. You also do not want grease, getting on pads or disk of rotor.
I'd also assume pins are factory greased. But I'd check. I only use Toyota grease, on pins and not much.
- Thread starter
- #26
Yes, I tried to do them exactly like post #18
took the pad off the caliper and put the indicator on it so i insert it into the caliper, but the indicator keep sliding off the pad as soon as I release them. I should have put the indicator 1st, them applied grease, I can take the pads off again, wipe off the grease and redo but too much work
honestly not necessaryBut now that you say you put grease between the shims and pads (mine look metal clip on) maybe I will do that and the indicators too while I am in there!
Yes, no grease on pad's surface or rotor!
Tried to open the pins but they are torqued tight, must mount on car 1st then maybe open 1 to check
- Thread starter
- #27
@2001LC
So according to PowerStop video on youtube and other people who installed the Z36 brake kit, they apply the grease on the back of the metal shim contacting the caliper, not between the pad and the shim ,,, can do both sides i guess?
Also, pins are apparently already lubricated, but they open them to open the caliper to install the pads after mounting the caliper on the car, but I dont need to because I can simply put the pads in before mounting the caliper on the rotor
So according to PowerStop video on youtube and other people who installed the Z36 brake kit, they apply the grease on the back of the metal shim contacting the caliper, not between the pad and the shim ,,, can do both sides i guess?
Also, pins are apparently already lubricated, but they open them to open the caliper to install the pads after mounting the caliper on the car, but I dont need to because I can simply put the pads in before mounting the caliper on the rotor
- Thread starter
- #29
Officially done correctly!
The reason the brake wear indicator was slipping not because of the lubrication but because the shim was on the way. Once I moved the shims slightly over, the wear indicator was installed without slipping!
Grease now applied on both sides of the shims!
If I had to do it all over again, I will take the caliper apart so I have more room to work with to put the brackets and pads
The reason the brake wear indicator was slipping not because of the lubrication but because the shim was on the way. Once I moved the shims slightly over, the wear indicator was installed without slipping!
Grease now applied on both sides of the shims!
If I had to do it all over again, I will take the caliper apart so I have more room to work with to put the brackets and pads
At this point just leave the pins & boots alone. It's a 99% sure bet the factory lubed them. It's also likely, you do not have the proper lube for them.
But just so you know. Caliper pulls off mounting plate, while bolts/pin on.
After market calipers and pads. Usually come with instruction and grease. They clearly show where to grease.
Based on your picture of pad and shim. Shim likely glued on. If so do not separate to grease.
For future reference. The caliper will separate from mounting plate, without removing bolts. Breaking bolt loose. Hold the nut with a wrench, while using a breaker bar with 6 point socket on bolt.
Here is just one link, that you'll find in my master thread (link in signature box below).
forum.ih8mud.com
But just so you know. Caliper pulls off mounting plate, while bolts/pin on.
After market calipers and pads. Usually come with instruction and grease. They clearly show where to grease.
Based on your picture of pad and shim. Shim likely glued on. If so do not separate to grease.
For future reference. The caliper will separate from mounting plate, without removing bolts. Breaking bolt loose. Hold the nut with a wrench, while using a breaker bar with 6 point socket on bolt.
Here is just one link, that you'll find in my master thread (link in signature box below).
Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!
I've found a few over the years. This was just first I keep and the highest mileage. But keep in mind, I've hundreds of hours and more than $6k in it now. That's because you are an artist and the 100 series is your medium. ....Whereas there are those of us who are more like a preschooler...
forum.ih8mud.com
There are 2 holes on the rotor that you can use 2 bolt (as a puller) to pull the rotor out.
