Stuck rear caliper (1 Viewer)

[Tareq]

Hi all,
Never worked on brakes before but found out my rear caliper is stuck.

Watched videos on YouTube and took it off the rotor.
I opened the slides screws, they look clean inside.
Pushed the pad against the piston with a 9" C-Clamp, worked.
Started the car and pumped the brakes until ABS light came on with beep for 5 seconds.
Went to the back found the piston almost all the way out, didnt retract, looked dirty from the inside, the rubber boot looks ok, not dry, but doesnt stick to the head of the piston.
Pushed it back with c clamp.
Filled reservoir with DOT 3 fluid to max line.
Reinstalled the caliper without the pads on the outside of the wheel because I couldn't put it back, only the inside.


It drives fine now, but I have 2 questions.

1) Should I buy the rubber piece around the piston, clean the piston and reinstall?
2) Or should I just get a new "caliper assembly" which includes everything, they don't seem expensive around $150 or less on Rockauto or Amazon.


Finally, my LC is right hand drive, so the caliper I have to buy for the rear passenger side is the rear-left side when looking forward while sitting in the car, correct?

 

[2001LC]

Caliper piston seal (O-ring inside caliper) and boot (seen on caliper sealing piton). Should be replaced, if removed or damaged. But, they do last a very very long time. Typically replaced, only when rebuilding calipers. I've had to help a few, get piston back in that did same as you. I don't just use clamps (clamping force). I work piston back in by hand, so I don't damage seal. If brakes hold pressure, once piston/caliper/pads/rotor back in place. Then you're good.

Best deal and fitment, is new OEM caliper w/mounting plate. If replacing!

Caliper pistons, do not retract on their own. Except a micro inch. The O-ring seal in the piston, has square edges. The edges curls just a tiny bit as piston extends pushing pads out a micro inch against rotors, as we press the brake pedal. As we release brake pedal, tension of curled square seal retract piston, just a tiny bit (micro inch). The imperfect surface of rotor, also helps to push out pads/in piston(s) during driving. The space between pads and rotor surface, during normal use. Is so small a gap (micro inch), it's difficult to even measure.

As you now found. Never press brake pedal or even compress piston(s). If any other caliper piston, aren't blocked from extending.

Whenever compressing piston into a caliper. Open its caliper bleeder, to allow fluid out. As, we do not want to force fluid back into brake master.

When bleeding air from lines and caliper. Do so, with IG key on. With rear just hold brake pedal down then open bleeder, fluid pumps out. With fronts, pump brake pedal 5 times and hold down as bleeder opened. Never release brake pedal with any bleeder open, or you'll suck air back into caliper.

"Slide pins" on rear calipers have boots. These boots must be affixed properly to seal out water. Whenever damaged or replacing pads, replace them.

I only like OEM parts. If you use non OEM parts, it's a rabbit hole. In some case a non OEM caliper, will not except OEM parts. They may even require their manufacture's parts which may not even be marked on caliper. Like bleeders, seals, boots, piston, etc...

Rapidly pressing braked pedal ~5 time with IG key. Sets off audible brake alarm. This is a low pressure warning. ABS brakes are press and hold, never pump during braking. The only thing it tells us, brake alarm works.

Look a links under heading of "Brakes" in page #1. Many helpful links.

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Tareq]

I appreciate your input thank you!
I think the boot of the piston might be improperly sitting on it but no leaks, and I definitely damaged the brackets the pads are sitting on .. need new ones to put new pads on


What's the life expectancy on these calipers anyways, because I need new pads & rotors too in the near future, since they all seem original from 2003, so I was wondering if I should replace the other calipers on all corners too with a kit like this

 

[nissanh]

Go with OEM rotors and pads.

It is very easy to rebuild front 4 piston calipers. Simply get OEM repair kit and do the refurb by your self. You do NOT need to separate the calpier into two halfs. Just do the 4 seals and 4 dust covers/metal retainer ring per caliper. Our 1990 hilux celipers got rebuild by me once and all I did was 4 seals, 4 dust shield/metal ring.

IF you can get reman calipers for less, then try that route.

You can also rebuld the rears. Install new dust boots on the slider pins and grease the pins.

 

[Tareq]

Thank you very much!

I was at Lexus just now, they want $300 for the rear caliper assembly (parts in California), same price as online.

The cost of material to rebuild mine with OEM boots (& hardware brackets because I damaged mine) makes buying aftermarket like this easier ... perhaps I trust it more than my rebuild work on first attempt haha!

 

[medtro]

Started the car and pumped the brakes until ABS light came on with beep for 5 seconds.

What is the reason for doing this?

 

[Tareq]

What is the reason for doing this?

After I pushed the piston inside, I wanted to see if there is pressure to push it out then retract.
It went all the way out, I think the boot is faulty.

 

[Tareq]

Best video for rebuilding the rear caliper, 80 series, but looks the same.

Seems very easy!

 

[2001LC]

OH Sh*T, he's lucky he didn't break his finger.

I didn't review the video, just first few minutes: How he demonstrated removing piston, with compressed air. OUCH!

Proper method is to, place a wooden block (not fingers) between calipers outer pad retainer and piston. Then use compressed air.

 

[Tareq]

Haha, I had the same thought when I was watching!

Found this kit, will ask my local Toyota/Lexus if they can bring it!

 

[medtro]

Video is great if done correctly but it doesn't replace FSM. FSM has info on how to remove piston.

 

[Tareq]

What is FSM?


Also, what does it mean when rotors have clean smooth surface on the inside but circular grooves on the outside surface facing the wheels?

 

[medtro]

What is FSM?

Factory Service Manual.

Also, what does it mean when rotors have clean smooth surface on the inside but circular grooves on the outside surface facing the wheels?

It means we need pictures in order to provide accurate answer.

 

[2001LC]

Rotor thickness, should be measured. Frt 32mm std., 30mm minimum. Rear 18mm std., 16mm minimum Then check runout and parallelism.

If rotor thick enough, but runout and or parallelism out of spec. Use a OTV brake lathe to correct.
Here's my Procut 9.0 OTV, I recently listed on CL.

 

[Tareq]

Hey guys,
So the rear caliper failed and I lost way to much fluid, ~20% left in the reservoir.

Even though I have full set of AKEBONO pads I bought 4 years ago when I got the 100, I will just go ahead and order the Power Stop Z36 set as I need to replace both calipers and rotors. Will save the AKEBONO for maybe 10 years later.

This is what I have in my cart currently:
- Power Stop Z36 set for rear (calipers, rotors, pads, brackets)
- PERMATEX 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (to lubricate the hub before I put the new rotor on it)
- POWER STOP 4OZPSLUBE Silicone Ceramic (brake grease to apply on brake components)
- PERMATEX 82450 Non-Chlorinated Brake & Parts Cleaner

This is my first brake job, do I need anything else to add to my cart?

Thank you!

 

[2001LC]

Caliper failed.. Humm!

Fluid loss is most often due to:
A ruptured flexible hose.
A rupture hard line.
Braking with worn-out pads, until piston comes out of caliper. That takes a lot of braking once metal to metal.
Loose banjo bolt or its seal.
Piston Seal failure. This is very rare in OEM. calipers. It's usually just a tiny weep, if happens. Seal damage is 99% of time, due to improper fluid flush PM.

I don't use Stop-tech pads, parts, calipers or rotors,.
Anything other than OEM caliper, may lead to fitment issues. With aftermarket I've had issue replacing bleeders, due to seat angle. Additionally OEM seal kits or piston if rebuilding one day, may not fit. Than there's question of mounting plate, boots, pins.

Mounting plate, pins & boots, come with new OEM caliper. Best deal! They're not loaded (They do not come with fitting kit, shim, pads or banjo washers/seals)

 

[Tareq]

Caliper failed.. Humm!

Fluid loss is most often due to:
A ruptured flexible hose.
A rupture hard line.
Braking with worn-out pads, until piston comes out of caliper. That takes a lot of braking once metal to metal.
Loose banjo bolt or its seal.
Piston Seal failure. This is very rare in OEM. calipers. It's usually just a tiny weep, if happens. Seal damage is 99% of time, due to improper fluid flush PM.

I don't use Stop-tech pads, parts, calipers or rotors,.
Anything other than OEM caliper, may lead to fitment issues. With aftermarket I've had issue replacing bleeders, due to seat angle. Additionally OEM seal kits or piston if rebuilding one day, may not fit. Than there's question of mounting plate, boots, pins.

Mounting plate, pins & boots, come with new OEM caliper. Best deal! They're not loaded (They do not come with fitting kit, shim, pads or banjo washers/seals)

Thank you!
I think I didn't put the caliper right after I took it off so it leaks and was rubbing against the rotor.

New parts arrived but no manual on how to put the brackets on the caliper, any Toyota manual or video?

Also, can I assume the slider pins are already lubricated or should I open and lubricate them?

 

[2001LC]

OEM, pins are pre-greased.
I've a saying when installing rear fitting kit: Top In, Bottom out!

 

[Tareq]

Which is the correct setup for fitting kits or plates or perhaps there is option #3. I did not pay close attention before taking them off. Maybe it does not matter.

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Thank you!
Those bloody brackets are frustrating haha, why dont they put a manual and number the brackets and where they go?!!!
but I found this above, will try it now

 

[Tareq]

I did it!

Not sure about the last piece?!