Stranded 1991 FJ80 named Vera - transmission stopped working (1 Viewer)

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yep the 3fe is the same on the back side as a 2f so if someone is parting an fj60 the bell housing, flywheel, trans etc would bolt right up. You would need to add a clutch pedal but its been done before quiet a few times. Cross member would need to be moved and drive shaft lengths altered but that's about it.
 
yep the 3fe is the same on the back side as a 2f so if someone is parting an fj60 the bell housing, flywheel, trans etc would bolt right up. You would need to add a clutch pedal but its been done before quiet a few times. Cross member would need to be moved and drive shaft lengths altered but that's about it.

OK, so that's the H42, then?

And you're talking about basically this process?
 
yep that's it. The "3f" bell is going to be from a late model 60 as well. I think you could probably get all the parts from a donor 60 in the 4-600 dollar range. a new clutch would run 225. and figure a bit for driveshaft work. Probably roughly same money as rebuilding the auto.
 
Roma, I think I'm going to forge ahead with the rebuild and probably look at the H42 down the road. I love the idea of a manual, both as a personal preference and for better power delivery, but I need to get her back driving, and I think the rebuild's the right path for me. Which is not to say I'm not going to call you when I get ready to drop the thing in my driveway, lol!

Hey more general question, is the rear main seal folks talk about part of the transmission rebuild? Do you think the seal in question will be part of the soup-to-nuts rebuild kit I'm looking at?
 
Hey more general question, is the rear main seal folks talk about part of the transmission rebuild? Do you think the seal in question will be part of the soup-to-nuts rebuild kit I'm looking at?

I would imagine the rear main seal isn't part of the transmission kit. It seals the crankshaft where it exits the engine to the flywheel. Transmission has to come out to get to it but it's part of the engine.
 
I would imagine the rear main seal isn't part of the transmission kit. It seals the crankshaft where it exits the engine to the flywheel. Transmission has to come out to get to it but it's part of the engine.

Of course. Perfect, just what I needed to know. So, eval that thing while the tranny's out, or just plan on replacing it?

But the trans input seal is part of the trans and probably part of the kit?

Just found @jonheld 's rear main seal thread to put the proper fear of God into me about A440F removal - Woohoo! Plus I spotted a comment about 'not all transmission-to-engine bolts accounted for in FSM'(!). Anyway - hopefully Alabama weather and learning from Jon's detailed pain will save me some time. Note to self... read through FSM trans removal process with PB Blaster can in hand. Daily. Starting today.
 
Of course. Perfect, just what I needed to know. So, eval that thing while the tranny's out, or just plan on replacing it?

But the trans input seal is part of the trans and probably part of the kit?

While it's apart you might as well replace it regardless.

I would imagine so.
 

I feel dumb asking this, and I've moved past this step so I could get a bit more done today, but I'll need to go back. What am I looking at here?


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I recognize the starter, but what's the angle of view and what are those connectors? Are they the actual starter connections? I doubt it, as "Disconnect the connector and cable" is step (a) of 9. REMOVE STARTER.

And jumping ahead... I thought I read that the FSM doesn't mention the top two bolts that connect the trans to the motor, but now I think it doesn't mention any trans to engine bolts at all.

If they were looking for the idiot who'd get crossed up by not having a step that says "unbolt transmission from motor", well...

Or maybe I'm crazy.

Anyhoo, any tricks to reach the difficult ones up top? Is it drill through the floor or nothin', or is there a ninja technique or magic tool?
 
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While it's apart you might as well replace it regardless.

I would imagine so.

Cool thanks, man - I'll add rear main seal to the parts list.
 
I feel dumb asking this, and I've moved past this step so I could get a bit more done today, but I'll need to go back. What am I looking at here?
There are 3 connectors that run from the left side of the transmission, across the top, and terminate by the starter. 2 from the NSS and 1 from the overdrive solenoid. Can't miss them.
 
There are 3 connectors that run from the left side of the transmission, across the top, and terminate by the starter. 2 from the NSS and 1 from the overdrive solenoid. Can't miss them.

Went back out there and now I'm thinking 'can't miss them' is a kind way of saying 'can't even see the starter without looking past them'. :oops:

Thanks man!

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Recovering from these Chinese puzzle box electrical connectors.

It's probably my noob status, but if feels like each connector has a different trick to getting it apart. Easy once you know the trick, but in a space where it's tough to see or fit two hands (let alone both at once), figuring it out without breaking something requires me to go to "zen mode".

Time does not exist. I do not exist. There is only connector. I am the space between the halves of the connector...



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OK, I'm back.

So, I disconnected 3 x connectors - One flat (2 wires, I think), one big and round, and the other medium and round.

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Then I came across this big squarish one below, and wasn't sure what I was looking at - is this connected to the transmission?

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Slow progress - step at a time, I guess.

Got the rest of the shift-gear removed before the sky opened up.

This was basic -

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This linkage rod (say 12-18" long) that was disconnected at this end in an earlier step comes out with the assembly.

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FSM didn't mention these connectors, but the shifter assembly wasn't coming out otherwise. Work the x-fer shift boot on the shifter assembly over the x-fer shift lever.

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X-fer lever and then the linkage connection where the FSM say remove the pin.

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Here's that connection from below...

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Here's the x-fer lever mounting gasket, which I'm guessing just keeps water out of the pivot. I'm also assuming a new one will come with the kit. Also in the pic, a bracket holding what I believe is the speedo cable.

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On the other side, looks like wiring harness and oil cooler lines.

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While I'm here... any ideas on this thing from the previous post?

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I know I'm taking weeks on what is a 2-day job at worst, 2hrs at best, but I'm working in small time blocks on free evenings (since my wife's out of town). Plus I'm learning as I go. Regardless, slow is pretty much how I roll on the first time through most stuff. If it's not still raining, I'll hopefully have the driveshafts out tomorrow.

Side note, calling driveshafts "propeller shafts" is a great way to get laughed at by car people. Ran into my friend Kevin while taking my daughter to a car show down the street (her idea, I swear). He asked how I was doing, and when I slipped that term into my progress update... well, he and a couple of other classic car guys who were standing around will be making fun of me about that for a while.
 
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Partial success, got the front driveshaft removed and a plan for the rear.

Here's the speedo port, a bracket for the speedo cable, and the transfer end of the cable.


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Matchmarks. Did this with a piece of my daughter's sidewalk chalk, since I hadn't take the time to find soapstone, which I hear is the standard thing to use. Surface seemed too oily to use a paint pen, but maybe as I clean I'll re-mark with the paint.

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The diff end of the front shaft could have been worse. Naturally the nuts put up a fight, but some penetrating oil and a 22mm wrench used over the end of the 14mm wrench made enough leverage to get them loose, at least in the front.

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This combo ended up working well for the transfer end of the front shaft. 1/2" breaker with this nifty 1/2" ratchet bulb thing. BTW the 20V (1/4" hex drive) impact was doing nothing. Possibly not powerful enough, possibly too much impact loss between the long extensions and the movement of the driveshaft itself. Anyway, not really meant for this type work, but still handy for zipping the nuts off once they're broken loose. One tap with the dead blow after nuts were off did the rest.

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Rear is still in place, and I'm hoping I can break it loose on the bolt side using the breaker bar while the wrench holds the nut, as the angles were just too awkward to get enough leverage with the 22mm wrench on the rear diff flange.

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I'm thinking this post-car-wash oil drip is sign of a real main seal leak, but I haven't put any study into it or done much cleaning aside from trying to get the worst or the grime off the transmission in prep for this job. I suppose it could as easily be the pan. Either way, rear main seal ordered with tranny rebuild kit from Rock auto. Transmission rebuild kit should be here next week, rear main seal week after, and Kevin's bringing me a transmission jack and some industrial grade jack stands probably this week, since I'm hoping to be ready for it by this coming weekend.


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Undo the nut ends of the bolts first. Easier than trying to turn the whole bolt and bolt shaft through the crud.

Don't loose any of the drive shaft bolts. They are not standard threads.
I generally use a 3/8 drive socket set on these bolts as the smaller sockets fit in easier.

Not sure why you took the shifter mechanism off the transmission tunnel. I have always just disconnected the linkage.
Same with the Hi / Lo shifter. The trans will come out with it still fitted.
Last time I didn't even remove the Center shifter console thingy.

Definitely replace the rear main seal while you are in there.
Also check the flex plate for cracks. Mine had cracks around every torque converter bolt.
 
Undo the nut ends of the bolts first. Easier than trying to turn the whole bolt and bolt shaft through the crud.

Don't loose any of the drive shaft bolts. They are not standard threads.
I generally use a 3/8 drive socket set on these bolts as the smaller sockets fit in easier.

Not sure why you took the shifter mechanism off the transmission tunnel. I have always just disconnected the linkage.
Same with the Hi / Lo shifter. The trans will come out with it still fitted.
Last time I didn't even remove the Center shifter console thingy.

Definitely replace the rear main seal while you are in there.
Also check the flex plate for cracks. Mine had cracks around every torque converter bolt.

I just can't seem to get enough leverage on the nut. Maybe this method would work better for me than what I tried...

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Since it's my first time on this adventure, I'm doing a full bag&tag on all fasteners, which makes me look and feel even more up tight than I already am.

Totally makes sense what you say about the shifters, but the FSM said "remove", so this noob removed, lol. Truth is, the history of this truck clearly involved some animal infestation... so I'm glad for a chance to clean these pits and the carpet under them.

Question though, any tips on getting to the upper trans/engine bolts? Part of me thought maybe I could reach up through that tunnel hole to get to them.

Appreciate the tip about the flex plate, too!


 
True the FSM does say remove. Experience will show you which things you can ignore depending on where the final destination is for the job. Because you are doing a rebuild most of the things that the FSM says to remove from the transmission will have to come off sooner or later.

Drive shaft bolts.
You can buy long ring spammers for jobs like this. Might pay to get one for these nuts and throw it into the trail tool box for later.
My mechanic mate used a 1/2" air impact gun and a reducer to drive a 14mm 3/8 drive socket. It looked violent but it was quick.

I had the drive shafts off my truck to grease the u joints the other day and they were real tight.
Damn u joints have grease nipples that you can't get while installed and can't use a flexible grease hose and chuck with either.
 
For the upper bell housing bolts we dropped the back end of the transmission until the back of the valve cover touched the firewall and then used long extensions to get the top bolts.
Lowering the back end of the transmission makes things a lot easier.
We had the truck on a hoist so we're able to stand up under the truck. It makes things so much easier.
 
True the FSM does say remove. Experience will show you which things you can ignore depending on where the final destination is for the job. Because you are doing a rebuild most of the things that the FSM says to remove from the transmission will have to come off sooner or later.

Drive shaft bolts.
You can buy long ring spammers for jobs like this. Might pay to get one for these nuts and throw it into the trail tool box for later.
My mechanic mate used a 1/2" air impact gun and a reducer to drive a 14mm 3/8 drive socket. It looked violent but it was quick.

I had the drive shafts off my truck to grease the u joints the other day and they were real tight.
Damn u joints have grease nipples that you can't get while installed and can't use a flexible grease hose and chuck with either.

Yes, a long-handled 14mm ring spanner is definitely on the list for the tool kit, as well as a 14mm Gear Wrench. Also going to look at finding a 30-40cm length of black pipe I can flatten a bit to slip over the end as a cheater.

I've already got reducers, and yes the 3/8 tools certainly fit easier. That's what I was using on the 1/2" cheater, as my 1/2 impact sockets just would't fit. A real impact gun would have been good - I have the sockets because I borrow a compressor and gun for birfield rebuilds.


Oh, and before I forget - rear drive shaft removed!! :clap:

Small victories - I'll take 'em. All my spanner tricks failed me, but the "turn the bolt end with the socket cheater bar" had 'em broke loose in minutes.

My u-joints seem pretty flexible, but I agree that they're a pain to grease and I'm definitely planning to clean the shaft and grease the heck out of the the joints and slidey bits while they're out.
 
For the upper bell housing bolts we dropped the back end of the transmission until the back of the valve cover touched the firewall and then used long extensions to get the top bolts.
Lowering the back end of the transmission makes things a lot easier.
We had the truck on a hoist so we're able to stand up under the truck. It makes things so much easier.

You mean you tilt it back engine and all? Nice! :cheers:

I feel like I'll be able to reach those bolts through the transmission tunnel. I peered in there and I swear I could at least see the driver's side one. I think I've read that the passenger side is more difficult - Possibly that's because there's stuff in the way - not sure yet. My phone battery was dead, so I couldn't use it as my poor man's inspection camera just now.

A lift would be a dream. If I'd had my feet on the ground, I'll bet I could have gotten those driveshaft nuts off with the spanner. As it is, whenever I've done birfield or brake work I also make a mental resolution to start doing squats for fitness purposes - yikes!
 

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