Stranded 1991 FJ80 named Vera - transmission stopped working (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 22, 2013
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I'm forcing myself to take deep breaths - keep the panic at bay that I've broken her real bad. Come what may, I'd really like not to have the expense of replacing or rebuilding the trans.

She's got about 230K+ miles, and I drained and filled the transmission fluid 3-5 months ago using generic Dexmerc, which claimed to be Dextron-III compatible. The old ATF that came out back then looked & smelled fine. Red, oily, nothing noteworthy.

Now to today...

Driving home from work today Vera's transmission went all wonky then stopped engaging. She's a 1991, so I think that means I've got an A440F transmission.

First I thought I smelled a hot oil smell, but it passed. I'm always paranoid at smells, and glance at the temp gauge, rear view mirror, and hood for signs of disaster (overheat, fluids in the road, smoke).

About 3/4 of a mile later, I was starting up a steep hill and felt like I had RPMs go way up to about the redline before it up-shifted. I made it up and over the hill, but smelled the burning smell again. Let off the gas and pretty much coasted down the other side of the hill in Drive, then drifted into a shopping center. It was slipping pretty bad and I limped it into a parking space.

I left it running and tried to check trans fluid, but it seemed to be reading really high on the stick.

I shut her down for a couple minutes, and then started and shifted into D. The trans engaged and I thought maybe I could limp the mile and a half home, but by the time I got 100yds to the parking lot entrance it was slipping 100% and I had to drift it back out of the traffic flow. Turned off for another 3 minutes or so, and tried fiddling with the CDL. Managed to limp into a parking space and then it was slipping seemingly 100% again with the CDL engaged. I couldn't get the CDL to turn off at that moment, I'm thinking she needs to be moving for it to disengage.

I can get her home. My folks are visiting and have AAA, but I'm about 51% sure that once it cools off I'll be able to drive home.

This just didn't fit the scenarios I've read so far. Most I read were partial slipping, slipping in certain gears, or stripped drive flange (which I think engaging the CDL would have tested). The one that scared me was the one that went with a bang. Anyway, I'm hoping it's something I can fix at home - I've rebuilt the birfs, replaced the water pump, replaced springs and shocks, and rebuilt front & rear brakes for whatever that tells you about my mechanical abilities. That said, I struggle to troubleshoot without help from MUD, and this is my DD, so any troubleshooting tips would be urgently appreciated!
 
Get it towed and change it again with the correct, fluid, how many quarts did you put in it ??
 
I'm confused about what's the correct fluid. I think it calls for Dextron II or III, but even after searching I couldn't find a definitive modern recommendation. As for how much, I'll have to get the log from the truck when I get her, but I struggled with reading the dipstick (seems stupid when I type it) so I think I added back and amount per the FSM.
 
I go to Napa and get house brand dextron 3 , will be black bottle with Napa on it and says dex 3
 
This was what I had for a spec - ATF Dexron-II, 15.4L (dry fill) or 6L (drain & refill)

I didn't realize anybody still made Dex III - but maybe I should have shopped around more.
 
First, see what you have, when it's slipping and stopped, is one of the driveshafts turning? Does park work, or can it be pushed, roll?
 
I doubt seriously that you got the wrong fluid (DexMerc which is Dextron III) in it 3 to 5 months ago and now you are having a problem. Do what Tools mentioned above and check the transmission cable on the throttle body for tightness. You may have a seriously loose or broken transmission cable.
 
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First, see what you have, when it's slipping and stopped, is one of the driveshafts turning? Does park work, or can it be pushed, roll?
Can do. I think you're saying put it in gear, and once it slips, see if a driveshaft is moving even though the truck's not? And then will park keep it in place or will it roll in park?
 
I doubt seriously that you got the wrong fluid (DexMerc which is Dextron III) in it 3 to 5 months ago and now you are having a problem. Do what Tools mentioned above and check the transmission cable on the throttle body for tightness. You may have a seriously loose or broken transmission cable.
OK, will look that up in the FSM tonight and check it in the morning, haven't messed with the trans cable yet. At least not on purpose.
 
Has the transmission strainer ever been replaced or cleaned? Strainer could have flow restriction.
New atf fluid can clean and break free junk in the transmission and plug filter.
 
OK Tools & Summit Cruisers, sirs, test results are in.

No driveshaft spinning while slipping. The only movement from driveshafts seemed to be driven by the wheels, as I'm on a slight incline and rolled back a couple of inches while feathering the gas. From what I've read, this eliminates stripped drive flanges?

Park works. Feels normal, settles back and holds on my slightly inclined driveway. I hope that's a sign of something good.

As an aside, while idling in D, I could sense what felt like slipping in and out of gear via changing RPMs/Engine loading. Just a feeling, not actually sure what was causing the RPM changes.

I'm hoping everyone can see the picture below (lemme know if you can't, Google image linking is weird) -

This pic is right behind the throttle body between the intake and the firewall. I think the Transmission (AKA "Kickdown"?) Cable is that red-ferrule deal on the right. It seems to be connected to the throttle linkage correctly, but feels very loose to me at this end. I'm not sure if tight is "light tension", "firm" or "banjo" tightness.

That said, I've got an "Inspect Throttle Cable" procedure on AT-13 in the FSM, and I'm just making sure we're all talking about the same thing. Is the "Throttle cable" referenced in the AT section of the FSM the same thing as what's been referred to as the "transmission cable" and the "kickdown cable" on the forum? Like it's the "transmission cable that communicates throttle position", but the transmission Engineers didn't know or want to acknowledge that there are other throttle cables under that hood? :)

Thanks for the input!

https://goo.gl/photos/Cuk7eCUmfkwALNoU9


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Has the transmission strainer ever been replaced or cleaned? Strainer could have flow restriction.
New atf fluid can clean and break free junk in the transmission and plug filter.
It has not, Red Mud FJ, I'm now in process of researching that job, looking for gasket part#'s.
 
It has not, Red Mud FJ, I'm now in process of researching that job, looking for gasket part#'s.
The strainer in the A440F doesn't need to get replaced, only removed and cleaned. It is a fine mesh stainless steel filter. There is a gasket for the strainer, but the transmission pan does not use a gasket. It uses the orange Toyota FIPG.
There are 2 magnets in the bottom of the pan that will collect metal debris.

BTW, did you make certain that your transfer case shifter is fully engaged in H? You might want to check that first.
 
The strainer in the A440F doesn't need to get replaced, only removed and cleaned. It is a fine mesh stainless steel filter. There is a gasket for the strainer, but the transmission pan does not use a gasket. It uses the orange Toyota FIPG.
There are 2 magnets in the bottom of the pan that will collect metal debris.

BTW, did you make certain that your transfer case shifter is fully engaged in H? You might want to check that first.


That sounds more like whats going on, make sure the transfer case is in gear, I also did a search and the shift solenoid's 85420-60050 you need 2 of them, but before throwing parts at it, check the cable and linkage under the vehicle
 
I would not sweat the ATF fluid, but as Jonheld as said in a previous post, fluid level can do wonky things. Each DEX #, replaces the previous version, so if you need DEXII, any DEX of a higher number (III or IV..) will be fine. I started having issues with my trans in the last year, and they seem to be similar to yours. I did Rodney's party trick (you can find that on a search, especially in the 60 series section), and that helped for about a year. This spring pulling high RPMs up a long grade, I had the exact same issue you are describing; except after the RPMs dropped the engine and trans linked up again. I have discovered that as long as I keep the RPMs under 3300, there are no issues.

So, at this point you likely have an issue with your valve body, governor, or clutches. The good news is that the valve body can be removed without removing the transmission, but it is pretty complicated with springs and ball bearings. If you can find a local shop that has experience with a mechanical/hydraulic valve body, they may be able to offer some help. The other solution is Rodney's Extreme Nomad Valve Body, but that is pretty spendy, and if you don't know exactly where your issues is, not the best idea to throw money at it.

I wouldn't start freaking out yet. Transmissions are always scary business, but the A440F is pretty burly and forgiving. You might end up getting your hands dirty on this one, but she will come back to life once you find the root of the problem. Good luck!
 
That sounds more like whats going on, make sure the transfer case is in gear, I also did a search and the shift solenoid's 85420-60050 you need 2 of them, but before throwing parts at it, check the cable and linkage under the vehicle
There are no shift solenoids and no transmission ECU on an A440F. It is 100% hydraulic.
.
 
There are no shift solenoids and no transmission ECU on an A440F. It is 100% hydraulic.
.

Yep, I was just reading a thread on a 94 and the transmission is similar, but different thank you 440 442 tomatoe tomatow
 
I left it running and tried to check trans fluid, but it seemed to be reading really high on the stick.
This could also be your issue. The A440F does NOT like to be overfilled and you will loose drive when the fluid heats. The transmission fluid should read EXACTLY at the upper HOT mark when the engine/transmission are at normal operating temperature with the engine running.
If it is reading high on the stick, then it is overfilled.

You're not causing damage by overfilling, but the valves in the valve body are not operating properly. This tends to happen after a long drive with an overfilled transmission.
 

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