The Squirrel - 1991 FJ80 "Poverty Pack" Cruiser (2 Viewers)

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Definitely NOT what I would write on a note I leave on that cruiser.
Perverted mind, stay away from that high school 😂 😜
 
My EGR delete is not going as planned.

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I’m going to run a tap through it. I think it is 26mm x 1.5 thread.
 
I'm still waiting on various parts so I can wrap up my rear heater delete, LSPV delete, and EGR delete. But I got most of the EGR crap out of the way and was contemplating a dual battery setup with the extra room.

I realize most people like to run an isolator for the "house" battery. But I just want as simple wiring as possible. Mostly for a convenient place to connect my OEM winch (driver's side power).

Would this wiring setup work? Obviously there would still be the OEM fusible link (or alternative) between the alternator and main battery.

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My M26x1.5 tap finally arrived, so I was able to wrap up my EGR delete.

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I had to use this big monster to thread the tap. It was nerve-racking. The last thing I wanted to do was break the tap in the exhaust manifold. But it all worked out.

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Still waiting on parts for brakes and heater hose lines. But feels good to get something completed.

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Why are so many people on this forum doing an EGR delete? What symptoms are you seeing that the system is bad?
 
Why are so many people on this forum doing an EGR delete? What symptoms are you seeing that the system is bad?
I cannot speak for anyone else, but I chose to delete EGR to increase the simplicity of the truck and to free up real estate in the engine bay.

I would have deleted it regardless of symptoms even if EGR had been functioning perfectly.
 
Why are so many people on this forum doing an EGR delete? What symptoms are you seeing that the system is bad?

I have not deleted EGR on an 80, but I have done it to several 4.9 EFI Ford sixes. The EGR delete solved idle shakes, bad fuel mileage and increased power in those applications. I daily drove a 1970 F100 2wd for many years with a 90's EFI 300 six I swapped in. With a T18 4 speed and 3.50 gears it got 14 city/18 hwy MPG with great power.

I believe some EGR systems were problematic. They create more problems than any good they do.
 
I cannot speak for anyone else, but I chose to delete EGR to increase the simplicity of the truck and to free up real estate in the engine bay.

I would have deleted it regardless of symptoms even if EGR had been functioning perfectly.
I appreciate your advice man!
 
I have not deleted EGR on an 80, but I have done it to several 4.9 EFI Ford sixes. The EGR delete solved idle shakes, bad fuel mileage and increased power in those applications. I daily drove a 1970 F100 2wd for many years with a 90's EFI 300 six I swapped in. With a T18 4 speed and 3.50 gears it got 14 city/18 hwy MPG with great power.

I believe some EGR systems were problematic. They create more problems than any good they do.
Definitely going to look into this. We don’t have emissions in illinois on anything older than 1996 so I could care less about the emissions system.
 
I'm still waiting on various parts so I can wrap up my rear heater delete, LSPV delete, and EGR delete. But I got most of the EGR crap out of the way and was contemplating a dual battery setup with the extra room.

I realize most people like to run an isolator for the "house" battery. But I just want as simple wiring as possible. Mostly for a convenient place to connect my OEM winch (driver's side power).

Would this wiring setup work? Obviously there would still be the OEM fusible link (or alternative) between the alternator and main battery.

Dual-Battery-Basic.jpg
Continuing with this dual battery discussion...I noticed when re-threading the EGR port that the positive alternator post is right here.
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Since the alternator is already wired over to the existing battery on the passenger's side, couldn't I just pull a lead directly from the alternator to my new driver's side battery? The connection between the two batteries would just be the existing wiring from the alternator post to the driver's side battery. Any reason this would not work?

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Winch is mounted and tested.

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I need to find the factory wiring diagram for the winch because I’m not exactly sure how to wire the magnetic relay. And I’m waiting on a budget for dual battery setup (which will make routing the wiring a breeze).
 
I decided to modify my earlier LSPV delete and Wilwood brake proportioning valve install.

I didn’t like the prop valve under the truck where it could get dirty/damaged. So I just used a brake tee with one port plugged so I could mount it (I couldn’t find any regular M10 inverted flare unions with a mounting hole). I also decided proper brake plugs would be more appropriate than just a hex sealing on the threads.

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I then bought the Redline Land Cruiser prop bracket from @RLMS to mount on the booster. This required re-flaring one of the brake lines and converting to 3/8-24 SAE threads to match the Wilwood. Plus custom bending hardlines. Huge PITA and would not do it again.

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I think it came out pretty good. And most importantly, no leaks.

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Still waiting on heater hoses from Japan so I can fire it up.
 
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I have a part number saved for a nice OEM union with a bolt tab if you want to do it again. :lol:
 
I have a part number saved for a nice OEM union with a bolt tab if you want to do it again. :lol:
Yes please! Post it up. I already have the layout in my mind for how I’m going to modify the lines (again) during diesel swap.
 
Yes please! Post it up. I already have the layout in my mind for how I’m going to modify the lines (again) during diesel swap.
Tag me on Monday when I am back in the office
 

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