Builds STPCHLD, a 3/70 FJ40, Get's a Frame Up! (7 Viewers)

[Rainman]

I'd shoot myself in the foot if I owned a gun. I can't believe I didn't take shots of the bare metal seams inside the tub. There is absolutely no "spreading" or "swelling" or anything where nearly all Cruisers rust. Over the rear fender wells. I'll get a shot when I go back to the paint shop. It may be primered by the time I get there. I just want proof here in this thread.

Question for those paying attention:
I told the guys that I didn't want the area over the rear wells skimmed. I wanted the original "dimples" visible to show how clean the truck is and have it look like a "New/original" paint job. We talked about several spots where factory spot welds were visible and I told them to leave them. There are a few needed patches that will be skimmed but only after a good inspection and the highest care of making sure no rust will creep back. What do you think? Good idea or not? I REALLY want to know.

 

[Jdc1]

I'd shoot myself in the foot if I owned a gun. I can't believe I didn't take shots of the bare metal seams inside the tub. There is absolutely no "spreading" or "swelling" or anything where nearly all Cruisers rust. Over the rear fender wells. I'll get a shot when I go back to the paint shop. It may be premiered by the time I get there. I just want proof here in this thread.

Question for those paying attention:
I told the guys that I didn't want the area over the rear wells skimmed. I wanted the original "dimples" visible to show how clean the truck is and have it look like a "New/original" paint job. We talked about several spots where factory spot welds were visible and I told them to leave them. There are a few needed patches that will be skimmed but only after a good inspection and the highest care of making sure no rust will creep back. What do you think? Good idea or not? I REALLY want to know.

My opinion, If you’ve got pics of every step, I’d say either way is good. You are going through a lot of trouble to do decent bodywork, having dimples over the fenders isn’t that important. The bondo buggies that have rust holes packed with plastic are the ones people need to worry about. Yours has been brought down to bare metal and you have proof.

 

[Rainman]

AND for some visual enjoyment...

A little color coordinated button for the hardware around the truck. The button in the middle is just about the only piece not redone on the truck. (off the top of my head at least.)

 

[Rainman]

Here we go... Beginning to put together the final truck. Can't believe the quality of the 49 year old frame. No pitting other than where one of the rear reflectors was mounted. (Wish those were still available to cover it up.

The front end is DONE! I'm rebuilding the rear diff and that's next. Then the rear brakes and then suspension. Rolling Chassis Goal, here we come!

(Angus is getting some quality time in so he can earn a ride in it when I'm finished...)

 

[dad4x4]

Rainey, you do great work! Can’t wait to see it all done.

 

[Rainman]

I took a peak today over at the painter's place. Wanted to see progress and sure enough... Some progress. But also a chance (last chance) to record the condition of the tub that shocked me the most. I've never seen a Cruiser here in the south that was as clean over the rear fenders as this truck. There have been a few rust repairs but never over the rear wheels. Check out these clean seams!

 

[Rainman]

With the front end completed. Back to the rear.
Brand new bearings in the diff. I got so buisy and carried away, I forgot to get pictures of the carrier or pinion out with the bearings.
Then brand new wheel cylinders... and some brake lines... The cylinders added an upgrade to later rear brakes so now the truck has all 10mm brake lines! I believe I know who can handle those for me.

C clip install...



All new hardware.

 

[REZARF]

Great build and very inspiring... one question. Do you have a method for knowing where all those bolts and nuts go when you get them back from plating? I'm afraid I'd NEVER get them all into the right spot again. Care to share your method?

 

[Rainman]

Method? I don't think I'd call it a method. I'm just really familiar with a pile of Cruiser hardware. I can't explain why. I do on occasion (if I'm feeling forgetful) disassemble something, like the blower motor, and take a picture of the hardware lined up and put it on a piece of paper with "blower motor" written on it. It's in my phone and when it's time to rebuild, I pull out of the hardware bins just the stuff I need. The rest of it looks like this:

 

[REZARF]

Awesome that helps. Thanks.

 

[Rainman]

Got to my first favorite goal. A rolling chassis. I'm hoping to get the brake lines and a clean drive train installed soon. I won't need a tear down on the engine since it was rebuilt by Toyota about 5k miles ago. (These wheels are temporary. Steelies are on the way and will be painted body color. Caps are coming too but will decide if I will use them here or on MY45AGN.)

 

[Rainman]

I forgot to mention that I chased all of the holes on the frame for clean threads to bolt everything back onto. If you'd asked me how many holes are there to chase, I may have said 30 or 40. I stopped counting after 70+... It's got to be close to 100 now.

 

[hooter]

It's in my phone and when it's time to rebuild, I pull out of the hardware bins just the stuff I need.

I did this in my teardown. I subsequently dropped my phone in the water and lost 2 months of CRITICAL data. Now i search the forum for pics and curse the day I went duck hunting and leaned a little too far for the downed duck.....

back up frequently.

hOOter

 

[Rainman]

Once again, here I am cleaning up hardware for the build. I realized I was going to be a little short on hardware for MY45AGN so I bought a kit of clean hardware and got a very gracious donation from @Michael B of a box full of extra Cruiser ware. Here's the first pick out of the box to head over to @Vae Victus place and borrow his monster blast cabinet. After a few hours, presto, about 5 or so more pounds of the good stuff. Only a few bolts didn't make the cut for plating because of pitting. I'm looking forward to not worrying about whether or not I'll have the hardware to do the next job.

I'll be headed over for another round of plating in a few days. They do it so well and cost effectively, I don't mind doing it in stages. It keeps things going. So cost effective that I'm even having most of the brand new hardware redone to match all that I have. It won't cost anything more to do it either.

 

[JDNs78FJ40]

Very impressive. I can seem to get the heads of the bolts clean and sparkly but the threads don’t look nearly as good as yours? I’m using a combo of de-ruster and wire wheel but my concern is damaging the threads. Is the trick blasting them? If so what media would you recommend?

 

[Rainman]

Thanks. The wire wheel won't damage the threads unless you ride in one spot for a long time. With a hand full, I will park in front of the wire wheel and rub 'em down to a good shine. With as many as I have here, I'll soak the ones I catch that are just a solid grunge or paint covered in carb cleaner. It only takes a day or two to get most of it all off. I've found that blasting and leaving a satin finish doesn't matter in the long run. After the zinc plating process, it all shines.

As far as blast media goes, @Vae Victus will have to chime in for what his cabinet uses. It's a fine powder. Not crushed glass.

One tip I'll share is on rubbed corners of hexes or peeled phillips crosses, I'll very carefully grind off the pushed metal then wire wheel the ground area to smooth it out. I hope to get a second bench grinder with a softer grinding wheel and a polishing wheel. That would finish out the cleanup nicely.

 

[JDNs78FJ40]

Thanks!

 

[Rainman]

It's official. STPCHLD will be painted with Toyota "Cement Gray". Opted for this cold because I thought it was close to the early Cruiser color Heath Gray. Turns out it isn't really and based on the description of the old color, I like the new one better. Besides, if the new owner has a fender bender, getting a fix that needs paint, it'll be MUCH easier to get done with the modern color. Shou;d be picking up everything my middle of next week.

I'm in the process of painting the drive train now. I'll post photos when I'm proud of the end result. Should be just in time to install onto the frame just before the tub comes home.

 

[Rainman]

I hate to write this but I feel led to.

The man who taught me all about working on vehicles over the last 35 years (and has been a great client and friend) had an accident yesterday. He's 83 years old and managed to pass out in the shower and fell head first into a tile wall. Broke his neck and is in surgery right now. Fractured two vertebra clean through front to back laterally. We've been praying that the only issues he ends up with are the ones already visible. He's a brother lefty and his left hand is now mostly unusable. Next prayer is that he's able to regain movement there.

Gene needs some credit in this thread since I owe credit to him for most of what I'm able to show here. My attention to detail is mine but the knowledge is his. He's one of the "fathers" of Hot Rodding. Just ask @oldschool4wheeling , he'll tell you too.

 

[mrboatman]

WOW!! That`s sad we will add him to our payers for health and recovery.
JP