Stock Radiator Fan CFM (4 Viewers)

[baldilocks]

Hence the reason that Ron Davis sells all kinds of heat exchangers.. I knew that going in. I was just in hopes that I could be"smarter" than everyone else here.. on other forums.. plus professional builders and make it work on an engine that produces average power for 4.5L.. my bad!

Quite a few of us have "stuff" on our LC's that is not Toyota nor officially approved updates and a good many of them have provided an improvement.. in some cases a substantial improvement. So be it with my trip down the rabbit hole with quality electric fans. I thought.. wrong. Oh well.. a half a day of labor to put things back to their happy place!

Yep, I’m one who has many aftermarket products on my rig. But some things are well enough left as is or with a tweak here and there.

 

[surfpig]

I calc'd this like 4 or 5 years ago. Something around 5,800 CFM at 80% IIRC. I've seen 8 blade fans on some larger rigs that move 9,500 CFM Nothing beats the factory set up with a modified clutch.

For best cooling:

• Radiator shroud needs to be in good condition and sealed around the edges
• Fan clutch should be modified with 10,000 or 20,000 CST oil (I also run mine slightly advanced)
• Belts need to be in good shape and tensioned correctly, at the higher RPM and load they can slip so I run my belts TIGHT
• Run a leaner coolant mixture than 50/50, water has a much higher thermal capacity (ability to carry and transfer heat) than Glycol (coolant). I run a 70% Water / 30% Coolant + Water Weter (surface tension surfactant that prevents bubbles from forming, this improves the heat transfer efficiency)
  • If you do this you need to be cognizant of your coolants freezing point, and adjust it in the fall to stay below your winter temps
• Gently hose your Radiator and fan clutch often to remove dirt, mud, dust
• Make sure your radiator cap is good

On a trip last year to moab I was driving I-70 from Georgetown to the Eisenhower tunnel, this is a 7-8% grade for about 11 miles, starting at 8,500' and ending at over 11,000' above sea level. My rig was loaded out to about 7,000lbs, and it was an 85°F summer afternoon. From Georgetown to the tunnel I had the throttle pinned, not lifting once. I watched the temp (measured at the head and block discharge pipe) climb to 185°F, then the fan began to roar as the clutch engaged, over the next mile I watched the rig COOL ITSELF DOWN to 175°F while I was still holding the pedal to the floor. Pretty wild.

Now I don't have an AC Condenser in front of the radiator, but I do have a high clearance bumper and winch which disturbs airflow. And the radiator isn't anything fancy, just a rockauto TYC 1918.




That's a lot of unnecessary complication for a simple problem. IMO the OP should revert to stock, advance a new Blue Clutch, and change out its oil with 10,000 or 20,000 CST weight. there's plenty of great write-ups here. You can always add the fans to the front of the AC condenser as pushers (but i think people really only do this to help the AC star cold)

That's me, mostly stock, cheap aftermarket radiator, modified (~15000) fan clutch. Almost never gets above 200. Earlier this summer I did some trips in the Sierra where temps did get above 220 but I wasn't paying attention. I turned off the a/c for a couple minutes and it came right back down. I have an aux fan but I forgot about it ( )! That helped too. Especially for cooling off a bit after I park.

 

[Broski]

That's me, mostly stock, cheap aftermarket radiator, modified (~15000) fan clutch. Almost never gets above 200. Earlier this summer I did some trips in the Sierra where temps did get above 220 but I wasn't paying attention. I turned off the a/c for a couple minutes and it came right back down. I have an aux fan but I forgot about it ( )! That helped too. Especially for cooling off a bit after I park.

Exactly runs perfect until you get into extreme situation I don’t wanna have to worry about turning off the AC that’s my whole point.
I have done all the normal stuff including modified fan clutch and the auxiliary fan on the front The whole system has been gone through, all new OEM including fan blade and shroud.
Splash guard on the bottom and all skirting is present.

 

[surfpig]

Exactly runs perfect until you get into extreme situation I don’t wanna have to worry about turning off the AC that’s my whole point.
I have done all the normal stuff including modified fan clutch and the auxiliary fan on the front The whole system has been gone through, all new OEM including fan blade and shroud.
Splash guard on the bottom and all skirting is present.

I get it. It's literally for like three minutes though.

 

[landtank]

Exactly runs perfect until you get into extreme situation I don’t wanna have to worry about turning off the AC that’s my whole point.
I have done all the normal stuff including modified fan clutch and the auxiliary fan on the front The whole system has been gone through, all new OEM including fan blade and shroud.
Splash guard on the bottom and all skirting is present.

You don’t have to worry about turning the AC off, that happens automatically.

 

[surfpig]

You don’t have to worry about turning the AC off, that happens automatically.

Do people here remember what "old" cars used to do?

 

[surfpig]

You don’t have to worry about turning the AC off, that happens automatically.

That was my alarm. I was like, "Oh yeah, just turn off the a/c for a few minutes..."

Signs on the grade up 395 to Mammoth remind LA people of this all the time:

"Turn off your F***n a/c for a few minutes, dumbasses!"

And in case you didn't, here's some heavily mineral saturated "radiator water" that will cause untold damage to your cooling system in the near future...

 

[landtank]

I never had to worry about turning the AC off in my old cars.

 

[surfpig]

I never had to worry about turning the AC off in my old cars.

(I never had a/c in my old cars...)

I guess that was the joke.

 

[surfpig]

Exactly runs perfect until you get into extreme situation I don’t wanna have to worry about turning off the AC that’s my whole point.
I have done all the normal stuff including modified fan clutch and the auxiliary fan on the front The whole system has been gone through, all new OEM including fan blade and shroud.
Splash guard on the bottom and all skirting is present.

It's a 25 year old truck.

It runs perfect. If it heats up, you click the a/c off.

You can't project modern standards onto a 25 year old truck.

 

[Broski]

It's a 25 year old truck.

It runs perfect. If it heats up, you click the a/c off.

You can't project modern standards onto a 25 year old truck.

When I started driving it was 2/55 AC

I know how old it is, and when to turn the AC off.
Do you think in the middle East the owners manual said don’t drive in the sand if it’s hot out or the AC is on.

With the right combination I think I can get it where I want it.
One upgrade at a time so I can see what works

 

[spyduh]

I've been plagued with heat issues prior to me even installing the Turbo on my cruiser. I've tried everything just like Joey and I finally resolved my heat issues. Even a full motor rebuild and refresh of every single cooling piece on the system did not help. The Turbo didn't help either since I drove it like I stole it all the time and it gets HOT.

Anyway. What finally made it go away was the brand new Koyorad. I've documented the whole thing on my Turbo80 build thread.

What I currently have it in to summarize.
New Koyorad, Blue Fan Clutch 20k, Photoman smaller fan pulley, amazon electric fan (did nothing except help AC), OEM tstat, all new hoses and lines all the way back to the heater, good used rear heater after flushing it, Red OEM Coolant, etc.

Prior to that I was using CSF rad 3 core brass and the temps were crazy hot prior to rebuild and turbo. I kept it on the Turbo after rebuild since it was essentially brand new and I spent good money on it. I got rid of it and got a Koyo and it instantly resolved my issues. Ron Davis is nice but I don't got that much money to blow on a Koyo rad that just works and last for a pretty damn long time. Plus owning 2 cruisers is damn expensive.



One thing to note. On my Crawler80 cruiser. I have zero issues with cooling and it's on an old Koyo and 15k Blue Fan. I've never seen it over 197!

 

[baldilocks]

I've been plagued with heat issues

Do tell……

 

[Broski]

To be clear I don’t have a overheating issue
Do I think it could be better yep.

 

[zonker]

Wow.. it is like I twisted the key to Pandora’s CFM box. Lots of interesting and helpful bits of dialogue.

 

[baldilocks]

Keep it simple

 

[LandLocked93]

Remind me again...


...what is "A/C"?

 

[SmokingRocks]

Remind me again...


...what is "A/C"?

I was wondering the same, had to consult the FSM to see what I'm missing.

 

[Toyo Boyo]

So I did a 1” body lift.

Creates a small wind tunnel from the back of the engine over the transmission, transfer case and out.

In car just feels so much cooler

 

[spyduh]

Remind me again...


...what is "A/C"?

A/C is the thing that keeps us cool in the truck. It's a luxury land yacht after all as originally designed by the Japanese engineers. The ultimate "land" cruiser" to travel all over.

I drive two Lexus 450's . So I got AC, cause you know the Lexus ain't a land cruiser and it's fancy. Real fancy on the badges at least. still looks like the poor man's land cruiser everywhere else tho =)

At least i don't drive a Taco or 4R anymore. Hmm, nevermind I just bought a 4runner (4th in my lifetime) last month. I'm a country hillbilly now since I didn't add another LC to my collection.