I bought my first Toyota Land Cruiser, well first Toyota really, about a year ago. I have had a few little things that have bugged me on and off sense I've bought it. I guess little problems are to be expected in a vehicle with 281,000 miles. Today I tackled the P0402 code (fixed it but I've given myself a P0401 now) and a sticky odometer/trip odometer. I was told that the odometer would stick when I bought the truck. I was also told that a quick push of the trip reset plunger would take care of the problem. At first the odometer would stick about every 100-200 miles. Here recently I noticed that it was sticking every time I would roll to 19.9 miles on the trip odometer. So I had an idea where to start looking. I just needed to get my hands on the trip odometer.
There are a few threads out there for the removal of the instrument cluster, so I won't bother you with the photos of that. Once you have finagled the cluster out of the dash. you will need to split the cluster so that you can get your hands on the odometer dials. Here are a few photos of the disassembly and the problem I found.
There are 9 clips that will need to be depressed in order to separate the two pieces of the cluster. On the back of the cluster are 4 screws holding the speedometer gauge in the housing. This will allow the removal of the speedometer/odometer gauge from the housing.
I had to then take the speedometer needle off and the screws on either side of the needle. This will allow the gauge face to come off granting access to the internals. Use two spoons on opposing sides of the needle and apply light force to the handles of the spoon. The needle should come off easy. Be careful as the pin that the needle is on is very fragile.
Now I had access to the trip dials and the internals. Be carful once the face is off due to the fragile nature of the wiring behind the gauge face. Next was to separate the trip odometer from the odometer and speedometer. This is done by holding two clips on either side of the assembly and lightly pulling up while you hold the clips together.
Now that they are separated I was able to clean the gears and inspect them for damage. I did not find any broken gears or anything visible blocking the drive motor preventing rotation. I checked this by unscrewing the two screws holding the motor to the board. Then positioned the motor in a way that would allow me to turn it without the worm gear being in contact with the drive gears. I then focused my attention on the trip odometer. I held the reset plunger in allowing me to rotate the barrel of numbers noticing that every time I passed the 9.9, 19.9 29.9, 39.9....... it would have resistance. I exercised the dials for about 2 minutes and noticed that I had black foam falling out of the gears as I would spin them. I then hit it with some compressed air and found a piece of foam had come dislodged from the gears. I was able to pull it out and now the barrel rotated freely. looking around I found the culprit! It was the dust seal on the reset plunger . It appears it had degraded and a peace of the foam had found its way into the tens position of the trip odometer. Every time the dial would try to rotate 10s,20s,30s....... it would create enough resistance that the motor could not over come it anymore.
Now off to chase the P0401 code..........
There are a few threads out there for the removal of the instrument cluster, so I won't bother you with the photos of that. Once you have finagled the cluster out of the dash. you will need to split the cluster so that you can get your hands on the odometer dials. Here are a few photos of the disassembly and the problem I found.
There are 9 clips that will need to be depressed in order to separate the two pieces of the cluster. On the back of the cluster are 4 screws holding the speedometer gauge in the housing. This will allow the removal of the speedometer/odometer gauge from the housing.
I had to then take the speedometer needle off and the screws on either side of the needle. This will allow the gauge face to come off granting access to the internals. Use two spoons on opposing sides of the needle and apply light force to the handles of the spoon. The needle should come off easy. Be careful as the pin that the needle is on is very fragile.
Now I had access to the trip dials and the internals. Be carful once the face is off due to the fragile nature of the wiring behind the gauge face. Next was to separate the trip odometer from the odometer and speedometer. This is done by holding two clips on either side of the assembly and lightly pulling up while you hold the clips together.
Now that they are separated I was able to clean the gears and inspect them for damage. I did not find any broken gears or anything visible blocking the drive motor preventing rotation. I checked this by unscrewing the two screws holding the motor to the board. Then positioned the motor in a way that would allow me to turn it without the worm gear being in contact with the drive gears. I then focused my attention on the trip odometer. I held the reset plunger in allowing me to rotate the barrel of numbers noticing that every time I passed the 9.9, 19.9 29.9, 39.9....... it would have resistance. I exercised the dials for about 2 minutes and noticed that I had black foam falling out of the gears as I would spin them. I then hit it with some compressed air and found a piece of foam had come dislodged from the gears. I was able to pull it out and now the barrel rotated freely. looking around I found the culprit! It was the dust seal on the reset plunger . It appears it had degraded and a peace of the foam had found its way into the tens position of the trip odometer. Every time the dial would try to rotate 10s,20s,30s....... it would create enough resistance that the motor could not over come it anymore.
Now off to chase the P0401 code..........
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