Builds Stevo's 6BT60 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Yes I'm running hydroboost for the booster and a GM MC. The hydroboost unit has three lines: High pressure in (comes from pump), high pressure out (goes to steering box), and low pressure return (goes back to pump). There is no vacuum in my braking system so maybe it's one of those lines you are seeing.

Depending on where in the thread you are looking I did run a small vacuum pump for tranny purposes that I mounted on the firewall under the brake unit but it wasn't part of my engine or brake system. I'm now running something else for tranny control. I did/do not have the steering/vacuum pump combo.
 
I just got back from Erie today and dropped the new transmission and transfer case off at the shop. This transmission is pretty stout. Its got a 1.5" input shaft all gears, and the overdrive gear is on the front of the mainshaft as opposed the the rear for extra strength. I love it.

The clutch I picked up is also pretty HD.

Hopefully tomorrow I will be ale to get the LC motor and drivetrain out, at the latest monday.
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Hey Stevo...

I just found this thread. Looking forward to seeing some progress!!!

Hey, are you at all worried about the frame in the Cruiser? Those Cummins are NO JOKE, I'm sure you already know.

Two cross members, one for tranny one for t-case might be a good idea?

Good luck
 
Yeah I know, they make tons of torque.
I was planning on running a large frame bracing crossmember under the motor itself. One that is removable so the motor can be serviced easily.

I was also planning on running another crossmember for the the trans so there is not so much weight hanging off of the motor.

And the final crossmember would be to support the divorced NP205. The trans and T-case crossmembers would have poly bushings to allow for some deflection. I would hate to start breaking cases. Whereas the front crossmember would be solely to brace the frame.

Also I have a rear crossmember already on the frame which doubles as a rear shock mounting location. Hopefully the combination of these should be enough.
 
I am probably just going to run the stock landcruiser tank with the mechanical fuel pump on my engine. If I find that 23 gals isn't enough I might make up a new custom tank.

But as long as you are SOA there should be no issues with clearance. Currently I have tons of room between the diff and gas tank.

Stevo, this interests me greatly. I want to build a costom tank. Do you know how to do the baffles? POR15 claims you can use steel and paint the inside with POR15 and it won't rust and the paint stands up to the fuel. Thoughts?
 
Stevo, this interests me greatly. I want to build a costom tank. Do you know how to do the baffles? POR15 claims you can use steel and paint the inside with POR15 and it won't rust and the paint stands up to the fuel. Thoughts?

The baffles are just to prevent the fuel from sloshing around, as far as I know you would want to try and trap fuel by the pickup to ensure that you always have fuel available to the engine.

I have heard of a bunch of people who have coated the tank with POR-15 with good results. I personally would rather have an aluminum tank, it will cost more up front but will never rust.
 
The 2F is finally out!

After work today I spent a couple hours disconnecting everything holding the drivetrain in place. I had no issues until it came time to pull the shifter from the transmission. I ended up just torching it off.

The overhead chain lift sure is convenient for this sort of thing.
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I really hate to see LC parts go the the Junkyard, but unfortunately I don't have the room for a blown motor at my house.

If anyone wants any part of the extracted drivetrain let me know. I'd much rather see it put to use than scrapped. Make any offer on things you might be interested in.
 
Looks like progress!
Thanks for sharing your project!
 
Looks like progress!
Thanks for sharing your project!

Hey thanks, Its always nice to get encouragement.

Well the goal for this weekend is to get the motor pulled out of the dodge. That way I can get that all spruced up and ready to go in the cruiser. In the meantime I need to get front axle pulled and swap the Dana 60 in to ensure there is no interference with the oil pan.

I am up in the air about what locker to run still, ARB's are pretty expensive, and I'm not too thrilled to run an air line to the axle, considering I drive through a lot of brush and would hate to have it rip off or something. I was thinking an Eaton E-locker or a Detroit locker. I'll have to decide before I get the new gears installed.
 
cool build...watching this,as i have another 6bt in my posession,and a tired 2h in my 60...will be interesting to compare 6b and 4b swaps into a cruiser.

do you have any concerns over the weight on the front end?
 
do you have any concerns over the weight on the front end?

Not really, the 6BT is only about 200 or so pounds heavier than the 2F, and I have beefed up my suspension and will be running a D60 up front. I don't think there should be any issues.
 
Started pulling the dodge apart tonight and managed to get the radiator, intercooler, AT cooler, evap coil and most of the electrical connections removed. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to unbolt the motor from the transmission and get it up on a stand
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The Cummins is out!

It was a bunch more work than the cruiser engine because I had never dealt with it before but after about an hour I had it on the ground. Once again the overhead hoist was a big help, I would not have been able to pull it tonight by myself without it.

Looking at the two motors sitting on the shop floor, the Cummins isn't much bigger or longer than the 2F. I'll have to get some comparison shots to show what I mean. It looks so good. All in all I am pretty happy with the rate of progress, friday I hope to pull the trans off of the 6BT and get it powerwashed and on a stand. There I will replace some seals on the injection pump as well as some seals on the motor itself. Then I need to pull the Dana 60 and the engine crossmember from the dodge, after that I can scrap it. The 2F is going to the junkyard this weekend to clear up some space.

If anyone wants it let me know, otherwise its going.
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I will try to keep as up to date as possible.
Sometimes I forget to take pictures, but I'll post what I can.


Also Boots, are you running the stock saginaw pump with one low pressure return for your hydroboost setup or do you have one with the duel low pressure inlets?
 
I've modded my pressure relief valve on my saginaw pump so I'm getting a little more pressure since I'm running brakes, steering box, and a ram off of the pump. My sag cover has three low pressure inlets, one for hydro boost return, one for steering box return (fluid goes through a cooler here before it goes back into the pump), and one for my reservoir can. You can add return inlets to the sag cover if you want more. The ones on mine looked brazed on.
 
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Oh thats right:doh:
I forgot that I know how to drill holes and weld.

I noticed there are a bunch of wires going to my motor and injection pump, I am pretty sure they are sensors and on the pump is the fuel shut-off solenoid, Just curious did you wire the cutoff into your truck or do you just use the manual lever?

Sorry about all of the questions there is a lot of material in your build thread, I am gonna have to go through it again.
 
No worries, I'll help where I can.

I wired the 12v cut off solenoid to the 12v switched coil wire in the 60's harness. Works great. Then I've got the old choke cable hooked up to the manual shut-off lever as a back up just in case. I've had a cut-off solenoid fail on me so the manual shut off came in handy.
 

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