- Thread starter
- #61
Ordered new tie rod, and straight relay rod and all new tie rod ends.
Went ahead and ordered the man-a-fre 4" sua lift as well.
Went ahead and ordered the man-a-fre 4" sua lift as well.
Steering is all over the place..Need opinions
- Thread starter FJ40 Newbie
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Good luck with everything! Posts some pics of the progress/swap!
Please come by and talk with us. I can answer all your questions in about a half hour. I will only be in the shop tomorrow but out the rest of the week. ( in Cali )
- Thread starter
- #64
Thanks Michael. I will be coming by, I definetly want to talk drivetrain ideas with you. I am really leaning towards the C4 transmission mated to this 302. But, I need to change the cam first so we can match up a torque converter. It is way too big in my opinion and want something that is a little milder.
The other option is the ranger torque splitter to 4 speed tranny/transfer case. Time frame is at the end of February for getting the drivetrain figured out.
I am traveling this week as well. So, next week may work better for both of us.
Bodean
Hot Damn
Leave it with Michael at ACC and he'll get it right for ya.
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I can relate. I bought my '71 on something of a whim, without knowing much of anything. Guy had done a SOA, but not the cut and turn. It was scary to drive. I took it to a reputable heep shop and they did it right, plus minitruck ps and front discs. Wasn't cheap, but now it drives and stops straight.
- Thread starter
- #67
Here is the latest update, I ripped off the old shocks and springs. I put on a new man-a-fre 4" SUA lift (safari springs/old man emu shocks)
I bought new 75&up spring plates for the rear from Michael at ACC and just finished installing everything today. It rides great, the camber is now 1 deg and it drives straight. Thanks for the help guys.
The only issue I have is the front driveshaft is now about a 1/4" too long. So, I just pulled it off until I can get it shortened. Is it normal to need to change the length of a driveshaft when changing a lift? It went from SOA to SUA. Total height difference is about an inch shorter than it was before.
I bought new 75&up spring plates for the rear from Michael at ACC and just finished installing everything today. It rides great, the camber is now 1 deg and it drives straight. Thanks for the help guys.
The only issue I have is the front driveshaft is now about a 1/4" too long. So, I just pulled it off until I can get it shortened. Is it normal to need to change the length of a driveshaft when changing a lift? It went from SOA to SUA. Total height difference is about an inch shorter than it was before.
Why aren't you running an HO cam with 1.7 rockers. I assume you have a hydro roller 302?
- Thread starter
- #69
To tell you the truth, I don't know exactly what cam is in it or what the difference would be between an HO Cam with 1.7 rockers and what I believe is in it is a flat tappet cam. I believe it is an older block that was built for this fj40? But, I never received all the paperwork from the build that the PO was supposed to give me.
Pls let me know the advantages of the HO cam with 1.7 rockers?
Normal. Make sure you get it shortened the correct amount. A good driveshaft shop should be able to measure it for you and set it up. Congrats on the success.
Can you check for a part number on the head and block. Also pull the valve cover if you can and see if you have flat tappet or roller.
the HO is the cam out of the late 80s and higher hydrolic roller 5.0 mustang. this cam makes a ton of down low torque and would be pretty darn good for a LC. if you want torque earlier, you can always advance the cam, but you would need the right timing chain to do so.
if you are sticking flat tappet, you can always check out the RV cams available through Comp. They make great grinds.
my comp xe270HR with Gt40Ps on my 302 made 300 rwhp, but you wouldnt want that cam in a 4x4 or anything that needed to drive under 1500 rpm.
You could definitely make about 240/300+ at the wheels with the right torq minded or stock cam
