Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
new cone washers every time do the trick for me ..
steering arm fell out!
- Thread starter 56gambit
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
These should be safety studs like the steering link ball joint ends. They should require a pin or wire going through a hole to lock the nut on.
That's not an uncommon problem mate, its usually the studs coming loose not the nuts. I always pull the studs out and put them back in with Loctite and make sure they are fully wound in nice and tight and the problem usually goes away
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
almost always the studs ^ and almost always after a front end rebuild.
I know everyone says the studs come loose, but this doesn't make logical sense to me. If the nut is clamped tight and the stud (even if it is somewhat loose), should not be able to turn further due to the clamping force generated by the nut. The only possible way the stud can loosen is if the nut is loose first. I think if you check the nuts regularly you can ensure there is enough clamping force to keep the stud from turning.
Additionally, if the torque spec for the stud was critical I think Toyota would have specified an appropriate torque in the FSM. Furthermore, if Toyota felt the stud loosening was an issue they would have used a tapered/ pressed design as they do for the wheel studs.
My theory is that most of us don't use the SST to press the steering knuckle onto the trunion bearings as the FSM shows. For some people this leaves a small gap between the knuckle and the steering arm (the tap with a hammer method or using an impact gun solves this in my opinion). This small gap allows the nut to loosen which then allows the stud to loosen.
My 2 cents anyway.
Additionally, if the torque spec for the stud was critical I think Toyota would have specified an appropriate torque in the FSM. Furthermore, if Toyota felt the stud loosening was an issue they would have used a tapered/ pressed design as they do for the wheel studs.
My theory is that most of us don't use the SST to press the steering knuckle onto the trunion bearings as the FSM shows. For some people this leaves a small gap between the knuckle and the steering arm (the tap with a hammer method or using an impact gun solves this in my opinion). This small gap allows the nut to loosen which then allows the stud to loosen.
My 2 cents anyway.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
SST 09606-60020-01
At $500 yeah I don't think anyone really keeps it on hand
At $500 yeah I don't think anyone really keeps it on hand
- Thread starter
- #27
I like the safety wire idea.
I'll probably use the locktite, too, but I'm curious about those who've said they use locktite then re-tighten on occasion. I'm assuming they mean to just give a tug to make sure there's no movement of the nut... If the nut moves then that would mean the loctite has either failed or has been broken by the "re-tighten (?)."
I've called my local Toyota dealer with the parts numbers to get the studs, cones, washers and nuts (thank you to those who offered to me from their private stash!). I'll have my parts in a day or so. I want to post here that, as *bloc posted above, "#43211A only indicates the line in the part number index. Front knuckle/steering arm studs: 90126-12005" .... BUT ..... various sites list the part as both 90126-12005 AND -12007. I'd seen one site that said "replaced by" between both part numbers but was presented in such a way that you couldn't tell what replaced what. When I asked the Toyota parts guy about this he said "ummmmmmm.......". I said I'll just bring a nut in (from the driver side) and see if it threads into the -12007.
Also, I have to assume here that the thread pitch is the same on the nut side as it is on the knuckle side.. when I chose the 1.25 mm thread bolts for the temp fix it was based on using a nut from the driver side that fit the Autozone 1.25 template same bolt. It did not fit the 1.5 so I'm definitely perplexed about that. Will post again about this....
So, I've ordered the 90116-12007 stud bolts. Hope that its the same as the -12005 that *bloc says. (!)
Here's an image from one of the confusing sites... note that the #43211A line item applies to 2 different part numbers...
I'll probably use the locktite, too, but I'm curious about those who've said they use locktite then re-tighten on occasion. I'm assuming they mean to just give a tug to make sure there's no movement of the nut... If the nut moves then that would mean the loctite has either failed or has been broken by the "re-tighten (?)."
I've called my local Toyota dealer with the parts numbers to get the studs, cones, washers and nuts (thank you to those who offered to me from their private stash!). I'll have my parts in a day or so. I want to post here that, as *bloc posted above, "#43211A only indicates the line in the part number index. Front knuckle/steering arm studs: 90126-12005" .... BUT ..... various sites list the part as both 90126-12005 AND -12007. I'd seen one site that said "replaced by" between both part numbers but was presented in such a way that you couldn't tell what replaced what. When I asked the Toyota parts guy about this he said "ummmmmmm.......". I said I'll just bring a nut in (from the driver side) and see if it threads into the -12007.
Also, I have to assume here that the thread pitch is the same on the nut side as it is on the knuckle side.. when I chose the 1.25 mm thread bolts for the temp fix it was based on using a nut from the driver side that fit the Autozone 1.25 template same bolt. It did not fit the 1.5 so I'm definitely perplexed about that. Will post again about this....
So, I've ordered the 90116-12007 stud bolts. Hope that its the same as the -12005 that *bloc says. (!)
Here's an image from one of the confusing sites... note that the #43211A line item applies to 2 different part numbers...
He said nuts.
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
Mine were never apart and I still sheared one on day 2 of a week-long wheeling trip.
Check them no matter what; takes all of a minute and stops this from happening.
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
Loc-tite bad.
The steering arm, secured to the knuckle, is a stack of parts which can shear when there is play in the system. Why would you want to use a glue to hold something in place so that you can't tell with a torque wrench if it's loose/developing play?
bloc
SILVER Star
Old original parts in the parts listings were just a blank stud with no male torx bit on the nut end. AFAIK toyota doesn't make the original part anymore.. order that, you get the later one, which has a torx bit on the end, and allows you to thread fully into the knuckle much easier.. which is arguably a much better part anyway. This may explain the superceded numbers.. what I can say is that 90126-12005 IS a good part number and still comes up in the website for my local discount parts source. Have ordered 10 of these. 90116-12007 may just be the Lexus number. Note that 90126-12007 is not a good number, apparently.
Knuckle end of the stud is 1.5mm, nut side is 1.25. Perhaps this is why they back out so easily?
As was mentioned, since you threaded a 1.25mm bolt into the knuckle, assume the threads there need work.
This isn't my picture but is exactly what I have in my garage. Note the different thread pitches:
Hornd
SILVER Star
If you paint mark them (arm, nut, stud) you will need a flashlight instead of a wrench.
A Sharpie might work as well.
A Sharpie might work as well.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
If you have birf soup, you need to immediately stop the vehicle and check your knuckle nuts. Putting a tool on them is the only reasonable way to do it, if you have soup they will be covered in too much grease and oil to see clearly what is going on.
When the nuts/studs let go far enough, the knuckle moves upward along with the axle, distorting the axle seal and allowing diff fluid to flow into the knuckle. You can identify this happening when you start to smell burning oil and sulfur smell, distinctly different than engine oil burning. The oil gets flung up onto the exhaust and you can smell it clearly. In the OP's picture you can see the oil/grease mix on the inside of the tire. That had been happening for a while.
Cars talk, if you know how to listen.
When the nuts/studs let go far enough, the knuckle moves upward along with the axle, distorting the axle seal and allowing diff fluid to flow into the knuckle. You can identify this happening when you start to smell burning oil and sulfur smell, distinctly different than engine oil burning. The oil gets flung up onto the exhaust and you can smell it clearly. In the OP's picture you can see the oil/grease mix on the inside of the tire. That had been happening for a while.
Cars talk, if you know how to listen.
So Friday I decided to change the gear oil in the front end and top off the knuckles with grease.
Checked the nuts and they were tight as usual and although I've never had an issue with them backing out, I figured a little safety wire couldn't hurt
Checked the nuts and they were tight as usual and although I've never had an issue with them backing out, I figured a little safety wire couldn't hurt
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
You use a deep wall socket on an extension and just mash it in there. The brake dust shield will flex out of the way a little but will be totally fine.
serenity
SILVER Star
That's the whole point of loctite, it prevents the studs and nuts from backing out in the first place. If by some chance they do back out, the torque wrench will still overcome the friction of the loctite and let you know it's loose. Correct torque and the proper application of loctite is a winner every time.
These fan blades are about a meter long, they are held in by 6 countersunk bolts torqued to only 33ft-lb, they run for 24,000 hours between services at 1000rpm
I ditched my dust shield years ago, makes getting a torque wrench on a lot easier. Unfortunately if my inner axle seal fails it also takes out my brakes.
I figured a little safety wire couldn't hurt
That "safety" wire is not legit. It doesn't wrap around the nuts; it goes through tiny holes drilled in the nut. Looks purty though.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Definitely bad advice here. Serenity is spot on. Lot's of red loctite and torque.
I use green sleeve retainer for stuff I don't want to take apart ever.
ewillis
SILVER Star
+1 although, I used the oil resistant Loctite blue 243...I feel good about it.
