SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (4 Viewers)

[empty80]

I've never noticed that in my adventures through the parts lookup system.

Seems quite common with the front struts, and it does not apparent to have anything to do with data labels. If you plug the "Mark number" back into the search engines, it comes up with nothing. Maybe @cruiserdan or @OGBeno can help us make heads or tails of it. Do the "mark numbers" reference a different grade/rating of shock?

 

[OGBeno]

”Mark Numbers” are engineering part numbers assigned by Toyota for suppliers whom provide OEM parts to the factory line when the vehicle is built— in most cases with Land Cruiser, Tokico (which is owned by Hitachi).

These are different than service parts replacement which is what Toyota dealers support. The shock is an individual part. Replacement part numbers are part “kits” that usually include shock, bushing and hardware.

They receive the -69Xxx suffix number. In Toyota part nomenclature, any xxxxx-x9xxx indicates a part kit assembly made up of many individual part numbers.

Replacement shocks are a good example of this.

 

[empty80]

”Mark Numbers” are engineering part numbers assigned by Toyota for suppliers whom provide OEM parts to the factory line when the vehicle is built— in most cases with Land Cruiser, Tokico (which is owned by Hitachi).

These are different than service parts replacement which is what Toyota dealers support. The shock is an individual part. Replacement part numbers are part “kits” that usually include shock, bushing and hardware.

They receive the -69Xxx suffix number. In Toyota part nomenclature, any xxxxx-x9xxx indicates a part kit assembly made up of many individual part numbers.

Replacement shocks are a good example of this.

Thank your for the explanation! I appreciate it.

 

[cruiserdan]

Back in the old days the replacement shocks included the bushings, fasteners and all the washers/spacers. They were really inexpensive for what you got. The washers were eliminated ~20 years ago and are now only sold a la carte. The washers can cost more than the shock

 

[Willie G]

So....I've figured out how to fold the 2nd row seats forward - but I have to move the front seats so far forward that I can no longer sit in them.

Found nothing in the manual saying "you can only fold the 2nd row if you scoot the fronts forward."

What am I doing wrong???

 

[terrapin]

There are adjustable straps under the 2nd row seats that hook onto the rear grab handles to hold the tumbled seats up against the front seats. The front seats can be in any position, even somewhat reclined. It helps to put a blanket or towel between the front and rear seats to stop the leather from annoyingly rubbing together.

 

[Willie G]

Duh! Thanks!

 

[terrapin]

While we are on the subject, this is how I typically keep my second row seats. I can quickly fold them up to haul stuff, or quickly open them up for passengers (rarely use). The blanket is for protection and to keep the leather from rubbing against the front seats when folded.

 

[Polecat]

While we are on the subject, this is how I typically keep my second row seats. I can quickly fold them up to haul stuff, or quickly open them up for passengers (rarely use). The blanket is for protection and to keep the leather from rubbing against the front seats when folded.
View attachment 3520042

Damn - must be nice to not have car seats and boosters living in those seats…

 

[terrapin]

Damn - must be nice to not have car seats and boosters living in those seats…

Been there, done that!

 

[terrapin]

This is not so much a stupid question, but a stupid thing that I did yesterday (maybe that should be a new thread!). I was removing a bolt with a ratcheting box end wrench and not really paying attention when it started to slow down. I realized that I had backed it into a relatively immovable object. I couldn't remove the wrench nor reverse it. I managed to pry it off partially with a screwdriver and then use needle nose vicegrips to screw the bolt back in enough to free the wrench. I suppose I could have loosened the AHC(?) lines but that would have been a pain.

 

[Heckraiser]

has anybody here removed their door handles? I'd like to paint or wrap them to de-chrome and if it's not too hard to get them off without damaging them, that seems like the way to go.

 

[rex in bama]

This is not so much a stupid question, but a stupid thing that I did yesterday (maybe that should be a new thread!). I was removing a bolt with a ratcheting box end wrench and not really paying attention when it started to slow down. I realized that I had backed it into a relatively immovable object. I couldn't remove the wrench nor reverse it. I managed to pry it off partially with a screwdriver and then use needle nose vicegrips to screw the bolt back in enough to free the wrench. I suppose I could have loosened the AHC(?) lines but that would have been a pain.

View attachment 3523798

Why not use an open end wrench?

 

[tbisaacs]

has anybody here removed their door handles? I'd like to paint or wrap them to de-chrome and if it's not too hard to get them off without damaging them, that seems like the way to go.

You just need to pull the door cards if I remember correctly

 

[lx200inAR]

has anybody here removed their door handles? I'd like to paint or wrap them to de-chrome and if it's not too hard to get them off without damaging them, that seems like the way to go.

 

[Fisher23]

How long does the starter motor usually last? OR after how many miles do they start to have a chance of failing?

I have another excursion planned (thousands and thousands of miles) and I can swap it out now easy and cheep .. or put it in a box for emergency shipping (along with all the little pieces needed for the swap).

Thoughts?

 

[Heckraiser]

Do it now. This is not a repair you want to do on the side of the road--very extensive compared to other vehicles I've put a starter on. Mine crapped out at around 155-160, can't remember exactly. I would recommend pre-emptively replacing at 150k or a bit sooner.

 

[bloc]

Do it now. This is not a repair you want to do on the side of the road--very extensive compared to other vehicles I've put a starter on. Mine crapped out at around 155-160, can't remember exactly. I would recommend pre-emptively replacing at 150k or a bit sooner.

This.

To do it right generally requires removing the exhaust manifold, or mangling the heat shields and trying to get it out between the frame rail and manifold. While it would be possible on the side of the road (or in a hotel parking lot) I certainly would prefer my garage and no pressure to get it done quick.

 

[tbisaacs]

How long does the starter motor usually last? OR after how many miles do they start to have a chance of failing?

I have another excursion planned (thousands and thousands of miles) and I can swap it out now easy and cheep .. or put it in a box for emergency shipping (along with all the little pieces needed for the swap).

Thoughts?

Do it now. This is not a repair you want to do on the side of the road--very extensive compared to other vehicles I've put a starter on. Mine crapped out at around 155-160, can't remember exactly. I would recommend pre-emptively replacing at 150k or a bit sooner.

This.

To do it right generally requires removing the exhaust manifold, or mangling the heat shields and trying to get it out between the frame rail and manifold. While it would be possible on the side of the road (or in a hotel parking lot) I certainly would prefer my garage and no pressure to get it done quick.

Just adding to this. It’s not something you want to deal with away from home.

Definitive list of starter removal methods

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[TeCKis300]

Do it now. This is not a repair you want to do on the side of the road--very extensive compared to other vehicles I've put a starter on. Mine crapped out at around 155-160, can't remember exactly. I would recommend pre-emptively replacing at 150k or a bit sooner.

3rd this. Definitely by 150k.