Did a 200 starter in a parking lot. Took 2 days and lots of swearing. Had to replace the plastic plug too since it was brittle and the lock tab broke.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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prwillard2
SILVER Star
How did you do this? Did you depin it and order another plug? If so, where was said plug from... I may or may not have broken the lock tab on my troopy's alternator.
bloc
SILVER Star
I doubt it's the case for vintage toyotas but current ones all have a part number that can be ordered through the normal channels.
Same here .. It snapped just decoupling it. The engine exhaust manifold heat it makes it brittle.
You can get a clip from O'Reilly (local auto parts store) or the Toyota solenoid plug clip part # is 90980-11400 (mine is a 2016)
I also ordered the alternator (aka generator) clip 90980-12A88 for when I have to do that. Their parts guy said they are soon going to stop availability of these.
You get just the clip from Toyota and need to de-pin it. The auto parts store you get a wire on it, but there is a difference in the quality of the clip for sure.
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Got the plug from Toyota and depinned the old.
I’m going to be flushing the coolant but the SLLC from Toyota is very expensive. Has anyone found a compatible alternative?
I know that with the various metals and seals that the coolant comes in contact with that you don’t want to just grab any old jug of Prestone and go for it.
Thanks!
I know that with the various metals and seals that the coolant comes in contact with that you don’t want to just grab any old jug of Prestone and go for it.
Thanks!
I would really recommend biting the bullet and spending the money on the Toyota pink SLLC. These are 90k trucks and you don’t want to damage the vehicle with non-OEM coolant. You are paying for a good additive package by going with the OEM fluid. (You get what you pay for)
bloc
SILVER Star
For the record, it’s better not to “flush” with clean water as it’s very difficult to get all of it out of our rear heat system, so your expensive new SLLC will be diluted. Drain as much as possible then refill with fresh is the best method for us unless there’s a significant problem with the existing coolant.
It’s not too horrible at the discount dealer parts sites, if they will ship it.
Agreed. And when you consider the cost per mile..
It’s not too horrible at the discount dealer parts sites, if they will ship it.
Recently (in the last month or two) someone brought up the question of whether or not it was necessary to replace the coolant again at 150k as suggested by the maintenance schedule. I briefly looked for the thread it was in but didn't find it quickly. Anyway, I could understand that it would be necessary to replace the fluid every 50k after the initial 100k change if the original components of the coolant system could make it past this mark. However, since most of us in earlier models have fallen victim to the "top of the radiator" crack and leaking water pump, valley plate leak, etc., getting to 150k or more on the original coolant system parts seems highly unlikely, maybe possible, but highly unlikely.
In my case, when the radiator crack developed, I went ahead and changed all the other major components of the coolant system same time I replaced the radiator. This includes all hoses, pump, thermostat and housing. I have not fallen victim to the valley plate leak yet but im expecting it at any time given the rate at which others have had it fail. Seems inevitable. Outside of the valley plate and heater hose T's, everything was replaced. I'm not considering heater cores for this as I dont see them as maintenance items.
So to the question, what is the consensus on whether it is necessary to replace the coolant every 50k after 100k? I replaced my radiator before the Update therefore I assume my radiator will only last up to 100k like the original one did. (I wouldn't wait and stretch it until failure or JB weld it.) I figure unless the water pump goes early or the valley leak shows up, I could wait until 200k to redo the entire system over again and therefore leave the coolant alone.
At the end of the day, changing it one extra time in 100k miles is not a big deal to me. I just dont see a reason for it. I do only drive about 5000 miles a year in the LC though, so time wise its going to be a while before it gets changed again in my case.
In my case, when the radiator crack developed, I went ahead and changed all the other major components of the coolant system same time I replaced the radiator. This includes all hoses, pump, thermostat and housing. I have not fallen victim to the valley plate leak yet but im expecting it at any time given the rate at which others have had it fail. Seems inevitable. Outside of the valley plate and heater hose T's, everything was replaced. I'm not considering heater cores for this as I dont see them as maintenance items.
So to the question, what is the consensus on whether it is necessary to replace the coolant every 50k after 100k? I replaced my radiator before the Update therefore I assume my radiator will only last up to 100k like the original one did. (I wouldn't wait and stretch it until failure or JB weld it.) I figure unless the water pump goes early or the valley leak shows up, I could wait until 200k to redo the entire system over again and therefore leave the coolant alone.
At the end of the day, changing it one extra time in 100k miles is not a big deal to me. I just dont see a reason for it. I do only drive about 5000 miles a year in the LC though, so time wise its going to be a while before it gets changed again in my case.
Your post about low annual mileage brings to mind another question - is there a time component involved as well? If a vehicle isn't driven much or often, will the coolant still degrade over time?
gaijin
GOLD Star
Thank you! That does help, especially given my long-time aversion to reading the owners manual.
The follow-up question then, is, why do the succeeding refills only last half as long as the original?
A radiator drain and fill gets you about 2 gallons but there’s still coolant in the heater core and other places in the system. You’re replacing quite a bit of it, but not all of it. I suspect the interval increases because you’re really just diluting what’s still there so this helps get more of it replaced over time.
bloc
SILVER Star
A major job of coolant in cars these days is corrosion prevention, and it’s possible that while the vast majority of corrosion has been prevented in the first 100k, some did happen and the prevention capacity of the coolant needs to be kept at a higher level after this threshold to keep things in check. For this purpose changing components won’t matter.. generally the block will still be original.
And, what linuxgod said.
And, what linuxgod said.
Are there any threads of people doing a front end swap from a pre-facelift 200 to a 2013 or 2016 front-end?
prwillard2
SILVER Star
To each his own, but what is the desire of this?
Car-Act upgrade kit for LX
Not sure if anyone has done it, but there's the kit. My experience with them has been excellent - wife's GX.
It has definitely been done (Canguro Racing LC200 is actually a pre-facelift LX), but I haven't seen a thoroughly documented conversion thread anywhere.
sorry, I should have clarified for an LC not a LX.
well ive seen one guy on youtube do it on a LC, I was curious on how much that actually was. I think the 13 bumper looks better. Honestly, a better question would have been if that bumper fits a 08.
