Definitive list of starter removal methods (1 Viewer)

[tbisaacs]

I’m about to tackle this on my 08 LC with 155k miles. Sharing everything I’ve gathered in one place.

Symptoms

The starter will warn you with intermittent no-starts. When she finally goes you’ll hear a loud click when you press start button, dash lights will dim, and you’ll hear a whirring with no starter activity. Starter will be engaged for approximately 5 seconds and dash lights come back on.

If you aren’t convinced it’s your starter—here are additional steps to take to check fuses and relays:

Example 1:


Example 2:


Tools needed

• 10,12, 14mm sockets and bonus if you have ratcheting wrenches
• Clip removal tool for fender apron
• Penetrating oil
• Flathead screw driver and maybe a pick
• Lots of socket extensions

General removal steps

There are a few ways to do this that I’ve collected, most start out the same way:

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal
• Remove passenger side front wheel
• Remove fender aprons to access heat shield
• Remove 10mm bolt holding oil dipstick and remove the tube and dipstick. The bolt is just below where you check the oil near the valve cover. You may need penetrating oil.
• Remove the lower heat shield foil, 14mm bolts
• Disconnect upper and lower starter bolts, long extensions help here
• With the starter loose you can slide it back and disconnect the harness and power lead. There is an additional bolt that ties the harness down if you need more play.
• Optional, you could can loosen the main battery cable to get it out of the way
• At the point you should have enough room to move the starter around and remove the foil heat shield attached to the starter

Next, here are different ways to drop the starter out, ranked by invasiveness

 

[tbisaacs]

Removing solenoid first and squeezing between frame and exhaust or wheel well


Example 1:


Example 2:

 

[tbisaacs]

Disconnect transmission coolant lines


Example 1:


Example 2:


You’ll need something to clamp coolant lines

 

[tbisaacs]

Disconnect mid-pipe


This video is full manifold removal method, but shows mid-pipe removal at approx 1:30:

 

[tbisaacs]

Remove exhaust manifold


This is per the FSM and most dealers and shops follow this procedure.

Here is another on a 200 series, no narration though:

 

[tbisaacs]

Mystery method


I don’t speak Bengali, but It appears they took it out through the wheel well, not sure if motor was jacked up:

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

“Ranked By Invasiveness” Thanks for the write up.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I’ve heard anywhere from 2-8 hours.

 

[grinchy]

Bookmarked for future use. Mine is due.

 

[bloc]

Good tech!

I do seem to remember some people having the failure without any whirring. Just.. click. Which does make sense. The common failure itself is the electrical contacts eroding and not being able to conduct electricity to the starter motor. So you’d get the starter gear engaging but no actual turning.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I'm sure this will come in handy, down the road. Thanks for compiling the list

 

[OregonLC]

FWIW, I did remove the passenger side manifold for access when I did mine. I too had read that by removing the solenoid it can be snaked out with the mani in place. But once the trim, heat shields, etc are removed the time to remove the manifold isn't much on a rust-free truck like you probably have living in Seattle and it makes the starter R&R a walk in the park. Plus you can start your next 150k miles with a new manifold and down-pipe gasket. Based upon other posts here, I had ordered exhaust studs thinking it likely that some would get buggered but zero issues. Going overboard, I also did the driver side manifold gaskets at the same time. Part of the reasoning for that was I thought I was hearing the start of an exhaust leak, but there was none. The 3UZ just makes some different exhaust noises with large throttle openings and low RPMs than what I was used to on the 2UZ.

Anyway, good call on the prophylactic repair. Way better to deal with this on your own terms in the garage than somewhere remote.

 

[tbisaacs]

FWIW, I did remove the passenger side manifold for access when I did mine. I too had read that by removing the solenoid it can be snaked out with the mani in place. But once the trim, heat shields, etc are removed the time to remove the manifold isn't much on a rust-free truck like you probably have living in Seattle and it makes the starter R&R a walk in the park. Plus you can start your next 150k miles with a new manifold and down-pipe gasket. Based upon other posts here, I had ordered exhaust studs thinking it likely that some would get buggered but zero issues. Going overboard, I also did the driver side manifold gaskets at the same time. Part of the reasoning for that was I thought I was hearing the start of an exhaust leak, but there was none. The 3UZ just makes some different exhaust noises with large throttle openings and low RPMs than what I was used to on the 2UZ.

Anyway, good call on the prophylactic repair. Way better to deal with this on your own terms in the garage than somewhere remote.

I took one look at my manifold studs and quickly ruled that out lol.

 

[OregonLC]

Are they pretty rusty? You can always put a wrench on one and try, you might be surprised. Mine had surface rust and I was worried about the same, but it was a complete non-event.

The downpipe was a little more of an effort, but not too bad. On the DS, it was a bit more of a bugger, but not because of the manifold. There was some spring in the pipe downstream of the manifold flange that required the other flanges be loosened to get it to all line up.

 

[tbisaacs]

Are they pretty rusty? You can always put a wrench on one and try, you might be surprised. Mine had surface rust and I was worried about the same, but it was a complete non-event.

The downpipe was a little more of an effort, but not too bad. On the DS, it was a bit more of a bugger, but not because of the manifold. There was some spring in the pipe downstream of the manifold flange that required the other flanges be loosened to get it to all line up.

Yea they are rusty — I just worry about getting in there and having even one round or snap and then it becomes a job.

 

[OregonLC]

You can get a six-point socket onto all of them so rounding isn't a concern. IIRC, one or two of them require a stubby wrench to get adequate swing. The break-away torque for any heat cycled component can cause a pucker, but again, mine were surprisingly easy to remove. I did replace them with all new factory nuts. Not in any way advocating it mandatory that you go down the path of manifold removal, just wanted to share that I had similar concerns that were proven to be false for my particular truck.

 

[TeCKis300]

Does our favorite youtube car care nut deserve to be in this thread? Probably good for context as this repair is up there as one of the harder ones for the 200-series. I think he does talk to potential manifold bolt fun.

 

[tbisaacs]

Does our favorite youtube car care nut deserve to be in this thread? Probably good for context as this repair is up there as one of the harder ones for the 200-series. I think he does talk to potential manifold bolt fun.

Definately aware of this one, I just didn't include because it's a rant and not a how-to

 

[Artie]

Does our favorite youtube car care nut deserve to be in this thread? Probably good for context as this repair is up there as one of the harder ones for the 200-series. I think he does talk to potential manifold bolt fun.

He’s really anti-preventative replacement. That’s all well and good for the dirt virgin mall crawler crowd, not a risk I would want to take.

 

[TLC2013]

Remove exhaust manifold


This is per the FSM and most dealers and shops follow this procedure.

Here is another on a 200 series, no narration though:

This makes it look awfully easy and straightforeward...as long as your nuts are not stuck lol . Doesn't look like there is much in the way to access and remove the exhaust manifold and then the starter. @tbisaacs thanks for sharing and making this thread. Which one of these methods are you going to use? I plan on changing mine out in about a year, once i get over 130k.