SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (20 Viewers)

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Anyone know how to turn off split screen? I don't mind using the map, climate, audio buttons to navigate between screens. I am trying to get rid of the audio window as shown in pic.

IMAG3863.jpg
 
Thanks guys, I have no idea how I missed that....
 
STUPID Q: is there a slider manufacturer in the HOUSTON (Texas) area? I know BudBuilt and Slee...are there any makers in TX?
 
None that I know of in Houston. Shrockworks is here, but they don't have any 200 Series parts that I know of.
 
Maybe not so stupid, but what is this open tube?!?

Found above rear diff/spare tire location after trying to open KDSS valve (rusted shut; which Mudrak should have opened after BP-51 install; disappointed with his work on this, but that’s another thread):
25477661-D70D-4140-9931-E1358F062711.jpeg

ADF8D96A-2E0A-4E0A-A12B-92C4CF1ECC9E.jpeg
 
BAY2MTN said:
Maybe not so stupid, but what is this open tube?!?

Found above rear diff/spare tire location after trying to open KDSS valve (rusted shut; which Mudrak should have opened after BP-51 install; disappointed with his work on this, but that’s another thread):
View attachment 2204079
View attachment 2204078
Click to expand...

I think that goes to the axle breather. Need to get that hooked back up. I might have popped off when they were doing the suspension install.
 
Yep, very easy for this to happen when shocks are disconnected and the axle is allowed to droop below the designed articulation range. You should see an 1/8" nipple pointing up from the diff housing.
 
KLF said:
I think that goes to the axle breather. Need to get that hooked back up. I might have popped off when they were doing the suspension install.
Click to expand...

Luckily I live five blocks from dealership and they had just worked on car. They’re putting it up on the lift to fix. It was exactly what you said; ten minutes later, I left.

Next I’ll be opening a “ticket” to have them deal with the rusted KDSS. 🙄
 
Last edited:
Anyone had trouble with the connectors that came with the Slee group 31 battery tray kit? I was having intermittent trouble starting (like really intermittent - once a year or so), but the battery tested fine. Not high priority, so took me forever to finally check it out. I decided to swap out the positive connector to see if that helped, and was surprised to see this corrosion(?) on the side that meets the extender. New one (via Amazon) on the right:

IMG_4253.jpg


Posting here because odds are I was the stupid one and didn't tighten it or something. I tightened the #$!@ out of the new one and the one on negative terminal, hope that was the problem.
 
Dissimilar metals maybe? Those are lead, battery posts are lead, what is the extender piece made from?
 
Last edited:
htx said:
Anyone had trouble with the connectors that came with the Slee group 31 battery tray kit? I was having intermittent trouble starting (like really intermittent - once a year or so), but the battery tested fine. Not high priority, so took me forever to finally check it out. I decided to swap out the positive connector to see if that helped, and was surprised to see this corrosion(?) on the side that meets the extender. New one (via Amazon) on the right:

View attachment 2204536

Posting here because odds are I was the stupid one and didn't tighten it or something. I tightened the #$!@ out of the new one and the one on negative terminal, hope that was the problem.
Click to expand...

Mine are still perfect after 2 years. I do spray all my battery connections with an anti-corrosion spray coating, turns them yellow but they stay perfect.
 
htx said:
Posting here because odds are I was the stupid one and didn't tighten it or something. I tightened the #$!@ out of the new one and the one on negative terminal, hope that was the problem.
Click to expand...
I think you nailed it. It’s a little out of focus,but that looks like the pitting caused by a loose connection. All the little arcs over time erode the conductor.
 
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