some h55f and split case tech (2 Viewers)

[Spook50]

Owners who want their dash button and glove box shift instructions to be stay original

It’s a perfectly reliable system if actually maintained, aka used more then once a decade.

x2. The vacuum shift in and of itself I never had issue with as far as functionality. It was the electric solenoids that gave out on me. When I went to a manual valve it worked flawless.

I will say the cool factor of having a twin stick case makes it so fun to scoot along logging roads and trails that I would take that any day over a vacuum or electrically actuated tcase

 

[mohawk]

My otherwise perfect counter shaft has 3 tiny chips.. is that a big deal ?

 

[mohawk]

My otherwise perfect counter shaft has 3 tiny chips.. is that a big deal ?View attachment 3161116View attachment 3161117

Ive got another one but its chipped the same all the way round

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

My otherwise perfect counter shaft has 3 tiny chips.. is that a big deal ?View attachment 3161116View attachment 3161117

I would not be too worried about that, as long as you take off any sharp edges with a needle file, it should be useable. Obviously a new one would be better though.

In case you are not aware, the weak point of the H55F is the rear bearing surface of the countershaft, where the rollers directrly contact the shaft. Before re-using an old countershaft, make sure that the surface is perfect, or you may be pulling the gearbox apart again before too long.

EO

 

[mohawk]

I would not be too worried about that, as long as you take off any sharp edges with a needle file, it should be useable. Obviously a new one would be better though.

In case you are not aware, the weak point of the H55F is the rear bearing surface of the countershaft, where the rollers directrly contact the shaft. Before re-using an old countershaft, make sure that the surface is perfect, or you may be pulling the gearbox apart again before too long.

EO

Thanks, thats what i was hoping.. the bearing surface looks good and thats why id like too reuse it

 

[mohawk]

i have another question... some of the videos ive watched show an O ring behind the bearing and spacer on the output shaft , but the 2 boxes ive stripped never had it and i couldnt see one on the FSM file ... The video link shows what im talking about , Thanks

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

i have another question... some of the videos ive watched show an O ring behind the bearing and spacer on the output shaft , but the 2 boxes ive stripped never had it and i couldnt see one on the FSM file ... The video link shows what im talking about , Thanks

Before about 1987ish they had no O-ring on the transfer input gear.

 

[mohawk]

Before about 1987ish they had no O-ring on the transfer input gear.

that makes sense , both my boxes are 89ish, thanks

 

[mohawk]

Before about 1987ish they had no O-ring on the transfer input gear.

Are you on the 15b FB page ? this is my 1989 BJ75

 

[mohawk]

Ok. Back to tech .......

If you're rebuild the tcase ...... you'll have to change the pocket bearing in the front of the main shaft. On the split cases it's not a tough job because toyota learned from the earlier one-piece cases. The early shafts had a deeper "pocket" but the bearing bottomed out and the bore machined in the shaft leaves very little if any lip for a puller to grab the bearing. The later shafts ( all split cases ) have an additional recess cut I to them so the jaws of a puller can and will grab the bearing race so you can remove it.
No matter what year tcase I'm working on, I use a snap-on pilot bearing puller to remove these. Sometimes it'll grab the inner cage and destroy it and that's ok. It actually happens often enough for me to not even try pulling the bearing without removing the cage and rollers first. I just use a dental pic, pluck the cage out and then remove the rollers with a pencil magnet. After that the race usually comes right out.
If it doesnt, you have two options:
1) cut it out with a high speed burr. This takes time and precision as well as a burr in great shape. They break easily and most of the time you end up with a groove cut into the bore of the shaft. Not my preferred way to handle it.
2) use a welder and put two tack welds opposite each other on the inside of the race, then use your pilot bearing puller. Works every time.
But you have to be diligent or you'll weld the race to the shaft. They're less than 1/16" thick so turn your welder way down. We have a couple of Miller welders at the shop and for this job we use the 110 machine with .020 wire.

Hope that helps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

i just used punch ( tight wooden dowel and bread too remove the pocket bearing .... works every time

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Are you on the 15b FB page ? this is my 1989 BJ75

View attachment 3162468

View attachment 3162469

Sorry, forgot to reply to this. Yes I am, I replied to the same question you had there.

I was in Malaysia this last weekend looking at engines, I'm about ready to buy a 15B-FT, though I also have a soft spot for the 14B-T... tough decisions!

 

[mohawk]

Ok , so can some one tell me which seal goes where.. ive got the outputs sorted , ... the front case halve has B in it , but whats A for ? Its the supre duper does everything TT kit if that helps

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Ok , so can some one tell me which seal goes where.. ive got the outputs sorted , ... the front case halve has B in it , but whats A for ? Its the supre duper does everything TT kit if that helps

View attachment 3187172

View attachment 3187173

A looks like the double lipped seal for the transfer input gear, as fitted from about 1988 on. B is the single lipped seal fitted to earlier models (which are much more prone to leaking). If you have fitted B, I would swap it for A. You only need one.

Have a look here: Transfer case input seal comparison - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transfer-case-input-seal-comparison.553563/#post-13379261

EO

 

[mohawk]

A looks like the double lipped seal for the transfer input gear, as fitted from about 1988 on. B is the single lipped seal fitted to earlier models (which are much more prone to leaking). If you have fitted B, I would swap it for A. You only need one.

Have a look here: Transfer case input seal comparison - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transfer-case-input-seal-comparison.553563/#post-13379261

EO

Thats pretty much what i was hoping , thanks man

 

[mohawk]

New question.. i have 2 3rd 4th sliders , and both are the old type with the groove all the way round.. they say upgrade too the one with 3 cut aways but is it a really big deal with new syncros and keys ? Thanks for any help

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

New question.. i have 2 3rd 4th sliders , and both are the old type with the groove all the way round.. they say upgrade too the one with 3 cut aways but is it a really big deal with new syncros and keys ? Thanks for any help

View attachment 3189953

There is no issue with compatibility. The newer type seems like a better design, but the one you show seems to have held up fine through the years. The ends of the teeth are showing some minor wear, so I would only replace it if you are really making a 'like new' transmission.

 

[mohawk]

There is no issue with compatibility. The newer type seems like a better design, but the one you show seems to have held up fine through the years. The ends of the teeth are showing some minor wear, so I would only replace it if you are really making a 'like new' transmission.

Cool.. i was just going off what was said in the terrain tamer youtube video , but if the parts are new , or hardly worn hopefully its no big deal

 

[1stchair]

and one more tidbit about the h55fs. even when i buy a new trans from the dealer, i remove the 5th gear extension housing and apply some loctite "formula 518" to the gasket. i've seen a few of these transmissions leak between the main case and extension housing and i've heard a few people complain about it. doing this only takes 20-30 minutes ( if you get interrupted by customer phone calls ) and it's well worth the effort! you have to remove the 5th gear detent screw, spring and check ball but none of the linkage or levers. pretty simple really.

here's a crummy pic. sorry, all of these were taken with an iphone.....

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

As one should, I followed @orangefj45 advice and popped the 5th gear housing off of my new h55f so I could add some sealant to reduce the chance of future leaks, and I’m very glad I did because here’s what I found:

(Original (new w/transmission) gasket vs the one I replaced it with)

Needless to say, I’m glad I spent the time to pull the extension housing off, as I have little faith that the gasket and corroded surfaces in the housing would have been free of leaks once in service.

As to the cause, I can only speculate. I did have this transmission stored for almost a year, and if that happened while in storage, perhaps it was a result of condensation accumulating between the close surfaces there when there was a swing in temp or humidity. This was the only place with corrosion on the transmission though. Could also have been there before I received the unit from Toyota, but no way to know.

In any case, it took more than 30 mins but I was able to bring it back to acceptable condition by resurfacing the affected areas and replacing the gasket.

In my excitement to get that fixed and to finally start assembly of the tc onto the transmission, I left the 5th gear oil pipe off the front case half. Oops! Didn’t realize till I quit for the night around 11:30, with the front tc half mated to the h55f, and I was back in the house washing my hands. Back out to the garage, pull the front case half back off, add the oil pipe(!!!), redo gasket seal, reassemble and torque, then to bed.

Thanks for this tip (and others), Georg! I’m certain you saved me from some headaches down the road

 

[matubrembrem]

As one should, I followed @orangefj45 advice and popped the 5th gear housing off of my new h55f so I could add some sealant to reduce the chance of future leaks, and I’m very glad I did because here’s what I found:

View attachment 3211541
View attachment 3211542
View attachment 3211544
View attachment 3211545
(Original (new w/transmission) gasket vs the one I replaced it with)

Needless to say, I’m glad I spent the time to pull the extension housing off, as I have little faith that the gasket and corroded surfaces in the housing would have been free of leaks once in service.

As to the cause, I can only speculate. I did have this transmission stored for almost a year, and if that happened while in storage, perhaps it was a result of condensation accumulating between the close surfaces there when there was a swing in temp or humidity. This was the only place with corrosion on the transmission though. Could also have been there before I received the unit from Toyota, but no way to know.

In any case, it took more than 30 mins but I was able to bring it back to acceptable condition by resurfacing the affected areas and replacing the gasket.

In my excitement to get that fixed and to finally start assembly of the tc onto the transmission, I left the 5th gear oil pipe off the front case half. Oops! Didn’t realize till I quit for the night around 11:30, with the front tc half mated to the h55f, and I was back in the house washing my hands. Back out to the garage, pull the front case half back off, add the oil pipe(!!!), redo gasket seal, reassemble and torque, then to bed.

Thanks for this tip (and others), Georg! I’m certain you saved me from some headaches down the road

The H55F I bought last year had the same thing goin on. I imagine it’s from the trans sitting in a warehouse until someone with a similar affliction to us decides to order it up.

 

[orangefj45]

The H55F I bought last year had the same thing goin on. I imagine it’s from the trans sitting in a warehouse until someone with a similar affliction to us decides to order it up.

Very common “issue” since these do sit on the shelf, in a factory, container, warehouse …. for some time.
But it’s a simple fix and we’ll worth the time investment.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers