So what kind of oil are you guys running

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5 W 30 "Red Line" Full Synthetic racing oil. It makes a difference!
 
Currently running Penrite diesel 15w50, at about 360,000kms.

Before that same brand, but 20w60. I've noticed no difference between the two.
 
Oil analysis?????

You cannot just get an Oil analysis.. I mean you can.. but what is it going to tell you..
" ahh.. Mr. X .. you have 27 PPM of Cromium in your oil.. You know what that means don't you"
Wel.. uh.. "ya" you say.. "something that is cromium is wearing.."
"Uh huh" he says.. " You should be doing something about that"
And then they hang up.. Bummer-

And you get in the forums and search like a madman.. for cromium.. and what PPM is acceptable..
Because the random low bid test lab cannot tell you.. they just ran it through their MassSpec .. They couldn't tell you if the sample came out of you truck or your butt.. This poor college student on his previous call may have told some kid he had the clap..

Well.. to solve these problems before they start..

Oil Analysis is meant to be done over time.. tracking trends.. One analysis tells you nothing..
If you are that concerned what is in your oil.. cut your filter open and leaf through the folds.. Look for bits of metal and other particulate matter..

Oil Analysis can be worth doing.. if you do it consistently.. and by consistent I mean even when you take the sample.. Are you taking it from the first drops that fall, somewhere in the middle, or at the end- That will affect your PPM readings as the particulate will be settled out.. Most say hot fresh run oil..
So if you are going to start down this road.. you should to do it every time you change your oil..
I think I made this clear.. but if not.. feel free to email me.. and we can chat more..

Todd
 
Chevron Delo 400 15/40! Anything else will blow your engine!
 
I've got 266,000 on my FJ62. Here in the Texas heat, I run Rotella 15w40 year round.
 
2F Engine w/248000 - Mobil 1, 0W30 advanced fuel economy, full synthetic ($21.00 5 qts Walmart)
H55 Trans & Transfer - Mobil1 75W90ls full synthetic
Rear FF axle - Mobil1 75W90ls full synthetic
 
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I run castrol whatever in 10-40 for 110* heat and 30* winter. When I rebuilt my 2f I asked my machinist about zddp, diesel oil, etc. He said that there is nothing to be gained from running diesel oil since most diesels are roller lifter and have tighter emissions standards now. He says just to run whatever weight oil you like and add a bottle of break in lube, specifically melling's stuff; mel-lube. Bottle says something like 1,400 ppm zddp iirc.
 
This thread (in FAQ) needs to be updated --

I'm currently running Castrol GTX DIESEL 15W-40 in FJ60 and FJ40 2F motors.

CI-4 and SL rated for pre-2007 Diesel/gas. Under $5/ gt.

4


http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetail.do?categoryId=82915482&contentId=6031107
 
Cheap oil, I'm trying to kill the 2F in the FJ40 so I can justify a SBC, 250K and no luck so far. :mad:

I don't think what kind of oil matters as long as you keep the level up.

I also run cheap oil in the transfer case, transmission and differentials but I change it at a minimum once a year because of the amount of off road driving we do and the high temps we see.
 
The oil you run in a flat-tappet motor makes a huge difference: Modern SM rated oils just do not have the high pressure anti-wear additives (due to smog and cat converter reasons) for older motors. You will see excessive cam and lifter wear if you're running an oil intended for a modern engine.
 
The oil you run in a flat-tappet motor makes a huge difference: Modern SM rated oils just do not have the high pressure anti-wear additives (due to smog and cat converter reasons) for older motors. You will see excessive cam and lifter wear if you're running an oil intended for a modern engine.
So if I start using better oil my 2F will finally die?:confused:
 
Dan, why kill the 2F? You'll get mo' money for it as a runner ...

Just a thought ... It's a 2F or 1.5?
 
The oil you run in a flat-tappet motor makes a huge difference: Modern SM rated oils just do not have the high pressure anti-wear additives (due to smog and cat converter reasons) for older motors. You will see excessive cam and lifter wear if you're running an oil intended for a modern engine.

Amsoil 10w-40 and 20w-50 says it has higher zddp but after the whole bob is the oil guy lesson" seems I would want to run a zero (0w-Xx) oil.

Valvoline vr1 raceoil also claims to have higher zddp.
Only saw one response with that.
 
Rotella 15-40. Does fine. It's cheap and an old standby. Just keep it clean, and all is well.
 
Castrol GTX Deisel 15w40. Was using high milage 10w30 and the truck ran fine but I could hear a faint whine upon start up and the oil pan gasket would seep. The thicker diesel engine oil produced better results and the whine went away and no leaks. Consider that these landcruiser motors were built like deisels. Give em the thick stuff
 
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15/40, Anything else will blow your engine!
 
Amsoil is great stuff, but twice the price...

Rotella 15w40 great oil for a modern engine, but is now SM rated - see above why you don't want that.

Delo and Mobil Delvac 1300 also great oils but also SM rated.

Valvoline VR1 Racing has an additive package for VERY short drain intervals...

FWIW - I don't really care if somebody wants to run bacon grease in their engine, all I'm sayin' is these types of engines were designed for and require a particular spec of oil additive package. Modern emission formulations have eliminated specific anti-wear components in engine oil and in most cases have replaced them with other compounds that may or may not work as well.

You need to look at the label on the bottle and get an oil for a pre 2007 application or you're gonna shorten the life of some valve train components. Just my .02 --
 
I like Rotella but in the northeast i think 15w-40 is a bit heavy.
Is the Rotella 10w-30 the same quality oil?
 

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