So what kind of oil are you guys running (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter macgyverFJ62
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Anybody running that Valvoline Extended mileage oil?
Royal Purple full synthetic 20w-50 in my truck. has over 232,xxx miles
Can you get Toyota oil in the US? Ive been using their 20/50 in my 1HZs.
Im also using their injector and fuel system cleaner.
Im also using their injector and fuel system cleaner.
I use Valvoline durablend 20-50 year round in Poortland. We drive to and ski in Park City every year and go to timberline lodge on Mt Hood regularly in the winter. Never had a problem.
ditto
20w50... whatever brand is at eye level 
I also dump a qt of lucas oil stabilizer in thier to keep the rattle from my piston slap down, doesn't really help.
I also dump a qt of lucas oil stabilizer in thier to keep the rattle from my piston slap down, doesn't really help.
5 W 40 ,,10W50 Total / ELF brand. Full Synthetic .
Synthetic ATF .
Full synthetic pre-mix for Chainsaws from ELF.
All Gear oils Hyd (power steering ETC.) also from ELF
Oil, lubricants, lubricant, solvent, engine oil, synthetic oil - TOTAL Lubricants
All fluids here are full synthetic for the only real reason , Oil is cheaper than Metal.
If you were to compare SAE / API Specs of Mobile and other brands against Euro specs ACEA , They are not allowed to be sold in EURO for the spec's there claiming. Some got nailed not exactly what they claim.
If you had a new Euro car 2008-9 and later , All fluids (Not Brake fluid) is full Synthetic , And must be a ACEA spec..
VT.
Synthetic ATF .
Full synthetic pre-mix for Chainsaws from ELF.
All Gear oils Hyd (power steering ETC.) also from ELF
Oil, lubricants, lubricant, solvent, engine oil, synthetic oil - TOTAL Lubricants
All fluids here are full synthetic for the only real reason , Oil is cheaper than Metal.
If you were to compare SAE / API Specs of Mobile and other brands against Euro specs ACEA , They are not allowed to be sold in EURO for the spec's there claiming. Some got nailed not exactly what they claim.
If you had a new Euro car 2008-9 and later , All fluids (Not Brake fluid) is full Synthetic , And must be a ACEA spec..
VT.
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Valvoline 20/50 year round - never a problem; runs like a Binford.
PROOF. what we need for our rigs is proof gentlemen.
I have yet to see anyone on this thread mention Oil Analysis.
Having an analysis run on your oil can tell you TONS of information about the condition of your engine. it can determine if your Air and Oil filters are working well, it can tell you if you are changing your oil frequently enough, or if you could have run it for another thousand miles.
It can tell you about the life of your bearings, rings, and if your oil is providing the type of protection you need.
I use Blackstone Labs for my oil analysis on my STi. I have yet to run an analysis on my FJ60, but that is because i havent run my own oil in the rig yet. i just bought it, and i dont know what type of oil the previous owner had in the rig and for how long!
it costs around 20 bucks, and can provide some really cool information about the condition of your engine / oil / filters.
google Blackstone Labs. (no i dont work for them)
just my .02 cents
I have yet to see anyone on this thread mention Oil Analysis.
Having an analysis run on your oil can tell you TONS of information about the condition of your engine. it can determine if your Air and Oil filters are working well, it can tell you if you are changing your oil frequently enough, or if you could have run it for another thousand miles.
It can tell you about the life of your bearings, rings, and if your oil is providing the type of protection you need.
I use Blackstone Labs for my oil analysis on my STi. I have yet to run an analysis on my FJ60, but that is because i havent run my own oil in the rig yet. i just bought it, and i dont know what type of oil the previous owner had in the rig and for how long!
it costs around 20 bucks, and can provide some really cool information about the condition of your engine / oil / filters.
google Blackstone Labs. (no i dont work for them)
just my .02 cents
Castrol 10W-40. There is a 300 watt heater on the oil pan that is plugged in during winter. For this summer I have been thinking of Castrol 20W-50. I used to run that in Los Angeles in this cruiser and I think it worked well given how warm it was.
Summer temps here are in the mid 80s, typically. Although the engine does run cooler in summer wihtout that platinum lined hot box underneath.
Summer temps here are in the mid 80s, typically. Although the engine does run cooler in summer wihtout that platinum lined hot box underneath.
Search Blackstone or oil analysis. You'll get tons of hits in the 80 section, and a few here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/204311-got-my-fj62s-first-uoa-back-blackstone.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/285584-blackstone-oil-report-257k-miles.html
I run AMSOIL 10w40 in my 60......75w90 in diffs....offroad grease with moly in my knuckles. Not done an analysis on my 60 yet but will this Spring as I am getting to mileage where I am thinking of doing a refresh on engine. I have run analysis on my motorcycle, previous cars such as jeep cherokee and dodge 2500 CTD, etc...and always have been shown I had much more time left between changes.
I am down to two times a year on most vehicles....though I did once a year with a filter change only for my Cummins after three oil analysis showed it was still going strong.
I am down to two times a year on most vehicles....though I did once a year with a filter change only for my Cummins after three oil analysis showed it was still going strong.
i learned that expensive oil is a waste. you just need a good filter and change it regularly. 3k or less.
actually not true...just depends on what you would rather spend money. I prefer the superior HEAT protection of full synthetics....regular oil breaks down quickly once it gets near 160*F while full syn maintains its heat resistance qualities over 200*F. There are many other reasons why regular dino oil is not used in anything I drive beyond that and have been doing it for 20 years. I prefer oil that costs a couple dollars more a quart than replacing parts that run in thousands....that is just me though.
castrol 20/50 year round '87 245,000+mi
Matt60
KiSS of Death
same but valvoline VR1
Search Blackstone or oil analysis. You'll get tons of hits in the 80 section, and a few here
Yeah it seems more popular in the 80's threads.
Notice how i said "no mention of Blackstone in THIS thread".. not others
i look forward to having my oil anayized soon!!
I run Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 Racing Oil. I do this on the advice of an engine rebuilder in Spokane (Motor Works) who told me that they were seeing an increase in worn camshafts on older flat tappet engines since the EPA removed a zinc/phophorus additive from essentially all common motor oils. The additive is call ZDDP or some such acronym.
On BITOG (bob is the oil guy) there was some discussion of ZDDP additives, the one that caught my attention was a RedLine break-in oil/additive. Apparently 4 ounces (for a typical crankcase) contains enough to boost most oils back up to a good level for flat tappet cams. I haven't used any yet, but figure I'll add that and start making my own synthetic blend once I get the 2FE together. One pail dino RotT 15w40, one gallon synthetic RotT 5w40 or 0w40, one bottle Redline break-in additive.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1684971&page=1
^^ See m37charlie's post about 6 or 7 down from the top.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RED-81403/
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