So what kind of oil are you guys running (1 Viewer)

[cruiser_guy]

Just a note of interest. When I tore down a 3B engine with nearly 300,000kM on it and checked bearing tolerances using Plastigage the tolerances were STILL well within factory specifications. I would not get too excited about possible excess bearing wear (at least on the 3B bearings).
Personally however, I prefer to change the oil at the more frequent intervals and have thus decided on the mineral oil simply because of cost. Yes, synthetic oil is better but it is more expensive and less frequent oil changes to help recover that cost means that any contaminates continue to circulate in the engine. Yes filter changes between oil changes get rid of filterable contaminates but not any adverse chemicals or acids which can also cause problems. My diffs will continue with synthetic but my engine will get mineral oil at 5000kM intervals or less.

As others have said, synthetic will show up with leaky seals. I had a couple of leaky axle seals as well and fixed them and now all is well.

 

[Mike S]

My 60 has about 160K miles. I am running Mobil One and change every 6000 to 7000 miles.

I run Mobil Ome in all my vehicles. I believe that it is superior to conventional oils, and the delta in mileage between changes makes the cost about the same as quality conventional oils.

 

[cahilc]

I am 99% sure that it was rebuilt for regular mineral oil. What would be different? The rings? It was rebuilt using a Specter Rebuild kit, if that matters. Whats the difference?

Ok, hears what I understand.

Rebuild with 10k on the new rebuild. Not specifically built for synthetics. Motors specifically build for synthetics have *very* tight tolerances.

With 10k your rebuild motor should be seated correctly. I prefer 10k, HZJ60 prefers 5k before synthetics, opinions vary. So ... if you were going to try synthetics now would be the optimal time for your rebuild motor.

Synthetics are *way* slicker than conventinal oils. 5w-30 syn is way slicker(thinner) than 5w-30 conventional. I don't have a graph for comparison.

Older high milage motors which have run conventinal oil their whole life when switched to synthetics, will most probably leak & loose oil pressure.

Your motor uses oil for two reasons. Hydraulic *pressure* cushon on bearings and cleaning(physical & chemical).

If your motor is worn and has loose bearings and switched to synthetic oil ... there may not be enough oil pressure to maintain correct hydraulic cushion and you will have problems.

The opposite is true too. If the motor is build(tight) specifically for synthetics and you run conventinal oil there will be to much pressure. Problems again the reverse of the above.

Long oil changes ? Filters are physical filters not chemical. After a while the chemisty of the oil changes(suspending soot) and will cause a need for it to be replaced.

Diesel conventional oils are better at cleaning than synthetics too ...

???

What to recommend ? What's your preference ?

I'm a Mobil One synthetic fan but I'm now running Pennsoil 'Diesel' High Performance 15w-40 in my FJ60 because with the Mobil One 15w-50 there was to much oil getting in the cylinders and causing pinning. So ... Pennsoil 15w-40 is way thicker than Mobil One 15w-50.

You have plenty of options ...

Cheers,
Cahil

 

[DocB]

30 weight dino oil, but I'm a cheap bastid.

 

[Benji]

Dino 10w-40 mobil. I change it whenever I feel like it. That usually happens to be way below the 3,000 mark, so synthetic does not pay off for me.

It's runn'n great so I aint chang'n tothing.

 

[Outback]

Synthetic NAPA (Valvoline) 5w30 in my '01 Tacoma w/ 78k miles.
Synthetic Valvoline 75w90 in diffs and xfer case.

Dino NAPA 10w30 in my '72 FJ40 w/ ~15k on rebuilt engine.
Dino Generic 80w90 in diffs and xfer case (because it gets changed out all the time).

Jody.

 

[Civil1]

Delo 15W-40 2F 240,000 miles

 

[NocalFJ60]

10w 30 Mobile Synthetic blend

It is a cheaper than Mobil 1 full synthetic and you don't have to worry about causing leaks but get some added protection with the synthetic. I tried going to Mobil 1 at 120K and oil pan and rear seal started to leak some.

If I totally rebuilt my engine, I would go with full synthetic.


I never knew what real oil is actually made of until a few weeks ago. Real oil is mostly made up of plankton.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

10w 30 Mobile Synthetic blend

It is a cheaper than Mobil 1 full synthetic and you don't have to worry about causing leaks but get some added protection with the synthetic. I tried going to Mobil 1 at 120K and oil pan and rear seal started to leak some.

If I totally rebuilt my engine, I would go with full synthetic.


I never knew what real oil is actually made of until a few weeks ago. Real oil is mostly made up of plankton.

YOU ARE WASTEING YOUR MONEY! There are no regulations as to WHAT the percentage of synthetic IS in your blend. You are getting robbed.

Buy equal amounts of mineral and syenthetic and BLEND YOUR OWN!

That's the only way you can be sure you're getting any measureable amount of synthetic in your blend.


TB

 

[freebornred]

oil

allwright heres my 2cents, synthetic oils are great they offer great protection at all visc. grades. espescialy if your running a modern high compression multi valve ohc. 100hp per liter engine then the benefits outway the cost of these exellent oils. but come on guys were running a low compression ohv 2v 6cyl that was designed and tested to run 100's of thousands of miles on min. oils ! i mean the 2f will run on pure will if it had to, these engines are among the strongest toughest engines ever put in a paseenger veh. , youll be hard preseed to find a tougher more reliable engine than the 2f. so what do i use 20w50 every 5k the cheaper the better! yeah you can fork over the extra beans 4 the syn. stuff im sure it wont hurt but in my opp. it just isnt worth it. ill save the syn. 4 my M3 and as 4 oil add. i dont beleive in them !

 

[NocalFJ60]

YOU ARE WASTEING YOUR MONEY! There are no regulations as to WHAT the percentage of synthetic IS in your blend. You are getting robbed.

Buy equal amounts of mineral and syenthetic and BLEND YOUR OWN!

That's the only way you can be sure you're getting any measureable amount of synthetic in your blend.


TB

I don't think I am wasting my money. My coworkers call building up my cruiser wasting money. But they have not rode in it yet. I rather pay $.50/qrt. more to fill my cruiser up with oil that is better than regular oil.

The oil data shows it is better. Maybe I will blend my own next time. Good idea. But if you did 50/50 it would cost more than just buying 8 qrts of synthetic blend. The website states:

These products contain a mixture of high-performance synthetic fluid and quality conventional base stocks with premium performance additives boosted by 23 % which means more advanced detergent, dispersant, and anti-oxidants to help maintain or restore engine cleanliness.


http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_Drive_Clean_Plus.asp

 

[treerootCO]

my buddy runs mobil 1 in his camaro. He changes it about every 2,000 miles........

I take his used oil straight from the pan and dump it into the Cruiser

Free synthetic and I am recycling

 

[Jman]

my buddy runs mobil 1 in his camaro. He changes it about every 2,000 miles........

I take his used oil straight from the pan and dump it into the Cruiser

Free synthetic and I am recycling

Have you seen the "Who is the cheapest?" thread in Chat?

 

[treerootCO]

copy paste

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=285832#post285832

 

[hj60]

~225k mi on a 2F
Whatever the cheapest 15W-40 on the shelf is.
ValuCraft and Spectrum are my brands currently.
Change it regular and it don't matter what you put in your pan.
Hell, I'd be tempted to try used cooking oil if the viscosity were high enough.

 

[Lizrd]

it depends

At work, we run 100% Amsoil in our ford diesel vans, change oil at 100,00 and filter at 25,000. Except for some cams in 2000 models, we've had almost no oil-related failures. We usually retire the vans at 600k miles. We average well over 100k miles per year per vehicle. Of interest, we change to Amsoil (all lubricants) when we take delivery, usually 20 miles on the vehicle.

The ex-work van ('96) that I tow with has 705,000 miles on it, and the heads and pan have never been off. That said, I now run Rotella 15W40 in my van, because I only go around 3-4K miles per year. I change oil and filter annually. My van sits a lot, so condensation can build up, and the annual interval is almost universally recommended as a maximum time between changes.

Cruisers both get rotella also. DD 62 gets changed about 4K miles, my mostly trail/short trips fj40 gets 2 changes per year, and the oil is usually very dirty (Tellico dust, etc.). Synthetics at these intervals would be very expensive, so I go Dino.

I previously had a 97 fzj80 that I switched to 100% Amsoil, including the trans. MPG went up from 12.5 to 14 average. The lubricants were the only change. This was a staggering result to me, it's hard to believe that lubes can make that much difference! BTW, I used Amsoil's best oil, the 0W30. Oil pressure went up.

My 2 cents on synthetics,
Dave

 

[Dazza]

I've got a smoker, burns a bit of oil up. I started running 20w-50
mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with lucas oil stabilizer. cut my oil consumtion in half. still burns a fair amount though... what should I expect for a $300 motor.

 

[jvazquez53]

Mobil One synthetic 10W30 on the FJ60 (168,000 miles), the generator and the Yamaha TY350, 5W20 on the Caravan (110,000 miles) and the Isuzu P/U (255,000 miles), all running strong.

 

[Cruzerman]

Castrol 10-30. 2F with 330K on odometer (more like 350K since odometer was off for long time due to larger tires).

 

[forestdan7]

Valvoline 10w-40 year round.
174K on the odometer.

And no, I don't have any good reasons. Just that that's what I've run in my 4Runner for 12 years now. And it's a Kentucky company.

Several months ago on a thread just like this, somebody made the point that these old tractor engines (2F's, that is) don't care what kind of oil, just as long as there's enough of it. Sounds reasonable to me.