So what kind of oil are you guys running

50k on newish 2F
Mobile 1 Syn 10W-40

 

Amsoil heavy duty (synthetic) diesel oil.

Amsoil remote mount dual filter (one engine oil filter one bypass filter) kit.

Amsoil preoiler. Turn the key on and the engine gets pressurized with oil. Avoids ever dry starting your engine.


http://www.amsoil.com/products/hdd.html


http://www.amsoil.com/products/bf.html


http://www.amsoil.com/products/amk.htm

TB

 

Amsiol 5-40 in my big V8. 15,000 miles between changes and changing my Amsoil filter every 7,000.
Ran Quaker 10-40 and added MOA from the 44k people in my 200k mile 2F.
All vehickles front to back run synthetic. They are far superior lubricants.
devo

 

valvoline 20w50 on two older engines.

 

199,347 miles on original 2f

Winter oil: Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 (Wal-mart $12/gallon)
Summer oil: Chevron Delo 15w-40 (Costco 6 gallons for $35)

 

shell rotella 15-40
the 60 has just over 200K
don't know about the 40, other than alot.

 

Castrol 10W-30, 2F motor w/ 133K

-db-

 

What would you all recommend for a Rebuilt 2F with 10K on it?

Motor actually has 220k But when rebuilt, the Pistons, Rings, And Rod Bearings were replaced.

I was thinking Mobil 1 Synthetic 20w50 but have heard from some not to run Synthetic in Higher mileage engines. Does mine qualify as high mileage with a rebuild?

Thanks

 

That's bunk. Run it. Todays synthetic is SO superior to dyno oil you really should use it.



TB

 

What about synthetic leaking past seals easier?

 

Is anyone wondering ...

Is anyone wondering if oil pressure is more important than what type of oil ?

More importantly ... how different oils, synthetics, blends, & fern juice may create different oil pressures in our engines ?

Or am I just over reacting on this ?

Cheers,
Cahil

 

That is the old argument.

If your engine is going to leak then you need to fix it!


If your engine leaks because of synthetic oil it is need of repair!





TB

 

Ok Thanks!

What visc is recommended for a 2F with 220k but 10k on a rebuild? 20w50?

 

You could go 20w50 in San Diego if you're not going into the mountains (ie: cold temperatures). If you're a skier I'd stick with 10w30 in the ski season for sure. Viscosity is dependant on the ambient temperature as much as on the age of the engine. Synthetic seems to get better mileage.

btw I run 15w 40 Shell Rotella when I can and I've got 400,000kM on mine. I've also run synthetic (tranny/transfer and axles are all synthetic ALL the time) with good results and straight 30w when I had a long cross continent trip to do. It kind of depends on the use you make of the truck as well.

 

I changed to that equivalent in Pennsoil. Rumor has it it's the same company. That oil has the proprietary molecular structure that Pennsoil has patented until 2008. Resists viscosity breakdown better than any oil except synthetic.

Had some oil on the spark plugs with Mobil One 15w-50. Now using Pennsoil 15w-40 "Endurance" or "Long Use" whichever one is for diesels.

Oil in your cylinders will make you ping like crazy.

To run synthetics corretly the engine has to be tight on bearing tolerances. Hence, most not recommending swithing to syn's on old non-use syn motors.

Cahil

 

Boston,

Was the motor rebuild for mineral or synthetic oil ? There is a difference. Find out if possible.

Rememeber, synthetics were not popular until early 1990's. Most of our motors were build with the intention of running mineral oils.

For mineral I would recommend:

Cheron Delo 15w-40
Shell Rotella 15w-40
Pennsoil ??? 15w-40

All are diesel certified oils and have anit-soot charactersitics. Interesting to note that all are 15w-40 weight too. Basically heavy truck oils.

If you run synthetics be careful of pressure, having enough of it. Synthetics are a lot slicker for the same weight oil, sometimes an advantage, but give up anit-soot characteristics, cleaning.

Cheers,
Cahil

 

I am 99% sure that it was rebuilt for regular mineral oil. What would be different? The rings? It was rebuilt using a Specter Rebuild kit, if that matters. Whats the difference?

 

Ugh, you guys are making this to complicated.

There is only ONE rule. A brand new motor, or a new rebuild should run dyno for the first 5000 miles or so. Synthetic is to damn slippery and the rings may not seat properly.

After that it's synthetic all the way. Engines werent built or not built with synthetic in mind. Today they maybe, but before they were not.

Synthetic is so good that you should run longer oil change intervals anyway. That way you make up the extra cost of the oil.



TB