Shackle Reversal Reversal Stability and Drifting Problems and Back to a Reversal Again?! Ha.

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Dec 26, 2017
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Morristown NJ
We reversed a reversal on my 78 40 and put a new Dobinsons suspension in with/ Bilstein shocks.

The truck now veers all over the road. Mechanic thinks perhaps the reversal was done for this reason - the need for stability. I always read or heard that a reversal doesn't do "that much" but now it feels like I have to go back. The truck is not safe > 20 mph and the mechanic is okay with the steering box and alignment.

Is there a simple shackle reversal kit that doesn't require welding and won't lift the truck too much? The Dobinsons has me at like 2.5-3" and my goal is to keep it stock height.

Tx.
 
Who did the reversal of the reversal?
There is something wrong with the setup.

Picture request of the current arrangment.
 
FWIW.

I have a "Reversal" done by the previous owner of my 1975. Stability is outstanding and I have caught myself going 80 mph on several occasions on our Interstate. (V8, Saginaw, NV4500).

That said, I had a 2" lift put in the rear to level things up and put 33" tires on.
 
Need to post some pics of the work that was done to be able to help you.
 
So, you went back to a stk setup with the shackles out front? Is your new suspension have lift springs or longer than stk shackles or both? What's your caster angle? Negative caster will cause wandering, and act darty, and feels like your chasing it when making slight corrections.
 
I swapped too much out at once to say the shackle reversal made mine stop wandering but high steer, Saginaw, and a a shackle reversal made it drive strait as an arrow. It wandered horribly before. The steering is a little twitchy with a 3 turn box but I couldn’t be happier with my current setup.
 
I’m currently running TBI 4” springs and going to switch it out with OME 2 1/2”. I just have 1 1/2 expended shackles but haven’t had it on the road yet since I’ve had the cruiser. Do I really need to run shackle reversals? Not playing on going off roading and I do it’s going to be anything extreme.
 
I’m currently running TBI 4” springs and going to switch it out with OME 2 1/2”. I just have 1 1/2 expended shackles but haven’t had it on the road yet since I’ve had the cruiser. Do I really need to run shackle reversals? Not playing on going off roading and I do it’s going to be anything extreme.
No
 
I still need to get with you on the tool bag straps.
When ever you're ready. I have some extra strap material set aside for your straps.

Steering handling has more to do with steering geometry and the condition of the steering components. Personally, I stay away from reversing shackles.
 
When ever you're ready. I have some extra strap material set aside for your straps.

Steering handling has more to do with steering geometry and the condition of the steering components. Personally, I stay away from reversing shackles.
Thanks for replying. As far as the tool bag straps I just need to get the OEM hardware plated in zinc and I’ll be ready
 
Go get an alignment to see how out of wack your current suspension is. As has been posted, caster is likely way off. Shackle forward is a fine setup as long as the alignment is set up correctly. SR if screwed up will 100% do the same thing.
 
Go buy a $5 angle finder at harbor freight and figure this out on your own and fire your "mechanic". Alignments are a total waste of time on a leaf sprung truck IMO. Your only adjustments are caster and toe, both of which are easily measured and adjusted with the simplest of tools in a home garage.
 
Go buy a $5 angle finder at harbor freight and figure this out on your own and fire your "mechanic". Alignments are a total waste of time on a leaf sprung truck IMO. Your only adjustments are caster and toe, both of which are easily measured and adjusted with the simplest of tools in a home garage.
When I finished the Rubicon last year. Came off the trail with a toe in of an 1”. Totally agree that you can do a solid front axle is a garage or a hotel parking lot. Had a new tie bar waiting for me at home - redid that process and wasted a $150 bucks to hear I had it spot on.
 
Another thing to double check is the spring center pin head diameter and ensuring it fits snugly into the spring perch. If it is smaller than the hole in the spring perch then it will allow your alignment to basically shift at will. If it is smaller you can make a bushing that will correct this.
 

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