Seeking Experience with Front Range Fab / Diamond Axles (2 Viewers)

[dbransco]

Hello, I am taking my 76' FJ40 to the frame with intentions of building a reliable daily driver/"ultimate" off-road vehicle (I know this could mean different things for different people; I want the ability to beat on this thing, however, it will very likely never be beat on. Trails, backroad exploring, etc.).
I'm contemplating going with Diamond axles front and rear and was looking for other's experiences with Diamond Axles. I have received a quote of nearly $24k and although they have been fairly quick to respond via email, the responses are somewhat vague and no way of speaking with anyone via phone despite requests on email and voice-mail.
Sure would like to speak with someone and at the very least have an understanding of what I'm getting for what I consider to be significant funds.
Thanks!

 

[peesalot]

well IMO even if you spend 24K you still have 9.5 diffs, birfs, & steering to upgrade, I would assume the 24K gets you all that but ?
Just sayin for 24K you could build narrowed 6 lug axles of your choice , at that price why keep the 9.5, birfs, steering & hubs ?

 

[dbransco]

well IMO even if you spend 24K you still have 9.5 diffs, birfs, & steering to upgrade, I would assume the 24K gets you all that but ?
Just sayin for 24K you could build narrowed 6 lug axles of your choice , at that price why keep the 9.5, birfs, steering & hubs ?

This price is for 10.5" diffs, locked, 80 series knuckles, full float rear, rear 80 series type parking brake, upgraded axles, 6 lug, etc.

 

[peesalot]

Thats better. Maybe Hellfire knuckles.

 

[EWheeler]

This price is for 10.5" diffs, locked, 80 series knuckles, full float rear, rear 80 series type parking brake, upgraded axles, 6 lug, etc.

IMO, uless you juat have money to burn, your spending a ton of money just for the sake of spending money. You can buy or build 1 tons for half that cost, for starters, which will be faaaaar stronger.

-80 series rear parking brakes suck, so there is that
- 80 series knuckles will only allow so large of an innner axle shaft diameter, so your likley paying for a super expensive front diff, and stuck with the 30 spline inner axle shafts, same as the FJ80 runs. I wouldnt spend the money on the 10.5” front, unless you like wasting money of doing it because you can.
- if you absoluetly MUST have a 10.5” front diff, just say fck it and go all out - Dana 60 knuckles and outers and RCV axles. You can spend an extra 800 or so and put 35 spline side gears in the tundra 10.5 ARB to use the RCV shafts

if you are on instagram, reach out to user @4x4toyotatyler he is building the ultimate 10.5” diff axles. He can tell you what he has into them….

 

[EWheeler]

Thats better. Maybe Hellfire knuckles.

Diamond has their own keyed arm/knuckle design for use with the FJ80 balls

 

[EWheeler]

Over here, youre saying you dont plan to beat on it. Now youre spending $25k on custom axles?

1976 FJ40 Axle Mod or Swap

Hello, Just beginning to tear down my 76 FJ40. My intention is to tastefully restomod with Cummins 2.8l and 4 link rear, 3 link front. I don't plan to beat in this, just want a reliable daily driver that can comfortably handle the offroad. I am imvetween 33" and 35" tires; however, leaning...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[dbransco]

N

Over here, youre saying you dont plan to beat on it. Now youre spending $25k on custom axles?

1976 FJ40 Axle Mod or Swap

Hello, Just beginning to tear down my 76 FJ40. My intention is to tastefully restomod with Cummins 2.8l and 4 link rear, 3 link front. I don't plan to beat in this, just want a reliable daily driver that can comfortably handle the offroad. I am imvetween 33" and 35" tires; however, leaning...

forum.ih8mud.com

I said it's very likely I won't beat on it in the original post above. I'm having a hard time following you; you say I'll be stuck with 30 spline, don't go with 10.5" diffs, then you direct me to someone building 10.5" axles.
The axles I've priced are custom 36 / 30 spline RCV 300m axles. Not sure about your reference to 35 spline ?
I'm definitely open to suggestions, as I'm not all that up to speed on this. I've done a fair bit of wrenching in the past, but it's been 20 years and I'm taking on this project. What I end up doing with it is still up in the air and quite frankly non of your business; as I indicated, its my intention to over build this thing, most likely beyond anything I'd put it through.
I'm not looking to outright burn money, so I appreciate the suggestions; however, my main goal of the post was to gauge user experience with Diamond Axles.

 

[dbransco]

IMO, uless you juat have money to burn, your spending a ton of money just for the sake of spending money. You can buy or build 1 tons for half that cost, for starters, which will be faaaaar stronger.

-80 series rear parking brakes suck, so there is that
- 80 series knuckles will only allow so large of an innner axle shaft diameter, so your likley paying for a super expensive front diff, and stuck with the 30 spline inner axle shafts, same as the FJ80 runs. I wouldnt spend the money on the 10.5” front, unless you like wasting money of doing it because you can.
- if you absoluetly MUST have a 10.5” front diff, just say fck it and go all out - Dana 60 knuckles and outers and RCV axles. You can spend an extra 800 or so and put 35 spline side gears in the tundra 10.5 ARB to use the RCV shafts

if you are on instagram, reach out to user @4x4toyotatyler he is building the ultimate 10.5” diff axles. He can tell you what he has into them….


View attachment 3386225

I have contemplated dana 60s, but aside from just grabbing a junk yard set, by the time you go through them, it's still pretty pricy and at a cost of weight and ground clearance. I'm not saying a 10.5" diff is much different (I'll have to explore that a bit).
Any suggestions on direction for a set of 1 tons?
Thanks

 

[EWheeler]

N

I said it's very likely I won't beat on it in the original post above. I'm having a hard time following you; you say I'll be stuck with 30 spline, don't go with 10.5" diffs, then you direct me to someone building 10.5" axles.
The axles I've priced are custom 36 / 30 spline RCV 300m axles. Not sure about your reference to 35 spline ?
I'm definitely open to suggestions, as I'm not all that up to speed on this. I've done a fair bit of wrenching in the past, but it's been 20 years and I'm taking on this project. What I end up doing with it is still up in the air and quite frankly non of your business; as I indicated, its my intention to over build this thing, most likely beyond anything I'd put it through.
I'm not looking to outright burn money, so I appreciate the suggestions; however, my main goal of the post was to gauge user experience with Diamond Axles.

Diamond axle is top shelf stuff without a doubt, built primarily for the recreational type wheeler. Im sure they build some stuff for racers, but id venture more of their stuff is used recreationallly than for racing. There are ways to spend more money on an axle for sure, but youre talking ultra4 or trophy truck level stuff, which is fully unecessary.

I would need to go back and check some previous research, but i recall off top of my head finding that an 80 series knuckle ball would not allow sufficient diameter enlargement to accept the 36 spline diameter shafts of the tundra diff. I may be wrong. Obviously Diamond isnt going to quote you something that isnt possible, so maybe they have it figured out and the solution isnt widely avaliable to the public. You still have a diff that is SUBSTANTIALLY stronger than the axle shafts using 80 series RCV stuff. The 10.5 diff is expensive to begin with, i paid $750 for mine. Then you spend $1300 on an ARB plus ring and pinion and master install kit. Youre easily $3k into the center section alone. Bad ass and unique, yes. But its expensive to be bad ass an unique.

I referenced 35 spline because you can change the side gears in a 10.5” arb to accept the 35 spline inner axle shafts of a Dana60. Using dana 60 front axle shafts would not allow use of the 80 series closed knuckles, you would have to go to open knuckle design. Id bet the dana 60 outers and RCV’s are a good $5k add on top of your $24k quote, but substanitally stronger.

I have a complete 10.5” tundra axle i plan to build for the rear of one of my 40’s. Actually just bought the 4.88 gear set for it today from Nitros clearance sale. I contemplated building a front but just couldnt justify it, even by tring to poor boy it myself. I will likely do a full spool, which is about $4-500 now, and i can have it broached for whatever axle shaft splines i end up using. Im leaning towards welding unit bearing cups to the trimmed diff houising and going 8 lug unit bearings to get a full floating rear end. I can likely then use off the shelf factory axle shafts instead of something custom and more expensive. Easy upgrade to chromoly if i feel the need using standard off the shelf parts/lengths.

 

[EWheeler]

I have contemplated dana 60s, but aside from just grabbing a junk yard set, by the time you go through them, it's still pretty pricy and at a cost of weight and ground clearance. I'm not saying a 10.5" diff is much different (I'll have to explore that a bit).
Any suggestions on direction for a set of 1 tons?
Thanks

The 10.5” diff has a higher pinion centerline, which is an advantage. Its nearly a center pinion diff. The diamond housing will have more clearance than any common 1-ton housing, except for maybe a rock jock high pinion rear diff/housing.

Agree that youre spending lots of money on one tons as well, but not $24k, inless you want to.

I would personally buy something used. I never buy new stuff, always let someone else take the depreciation hit. You should be able to buy a good set of used 1-ton axles for well under $10k. Gives you some budget to go through them.

Here is the first example that came up when i searched facebook marketplace. Saw another set fully built for $10k earlier. If you want new, you want new. It will just cost lots more.

 

[EWheeler]

At this point in the build, driver drop versus passenger drop shouldnt matter unless you already comitted to your transfer case.

 

[dbransco]

The 10.5” diff has a higher pinion centerline, which is an advantage. Its nearly a center pinion diff. The diamond housing will have more clearance than any common 1-ton housing, except for maybe a rock jock high pinion rear diff/housing.

Agree that youre spending lots of money on one tons as well, but not $24k, inless you want to.

I would personally buy aomething used. I never buy new stuff, alwasy let aomeone else take the depreciation hit. You should be able to buy a good set of used 1-ton axles for well under $10k. Gives you some budget to go through them.

Here is the first example that came up when i searched facebook marketplace. Saw another set fully built for $10k earlier. If you want new, you want new. It will just cost lots more.

View attachment 3386235

View attachment 3386236

I appreciate the direction. I'll do some looking around. I found a set (60/14 bolt) local to me on FB that was new/never used, but they are asking $14k. They are a nice set, but I was thinking by the time I narrowed them (I'm going several inches wider than stock 40, but not full out crawler) and swapped gearing, etc. I wasn't far off of the Diamonds.

 

[EWheeler]

Ok, so if im spending $25k on axles, im going 8” toyota diffs with JHF portals. Cheap diffs. Expensive housings/portals. Bitchin ground clearance. Unique/cool factor is maxxed out.

But, im never spending $25k on axles, so this is all just mental masturbation….

 

[EWheeler]

@Mike Shull

What are you into youre 1ton axles for $$$ wise?

 

[dbransco]

At this point in the build, driver drop versus passenger drop shouldnt matter unless you already comitted to your transfer case.

Right, not committed at this point.

 

[Mike Shull]

@Mike Shull

What are you into youre 1ton axles for $$$ wise?

About $8500, which includes all new knuckles, brakes and fabrication parts. I picked up the axles (D60/C-14) for $3500 complete with air lockers, 5:13 gears and 35 spline axles. I searched for mid-80’s GMC military trucks as many of these came turn key with 1-ton axles, a Detroit rear and 4:56 gears. I lucked out when I found one that had been outfitted for crawling.

I had another rear c-14 bolt from an 80’s sand truck that was also ready to run that I picked up for $350. I finally sent it to the scrap yard after trying to sell it for several months, even after dropping the price to free. Nobody wanted it.

I looked at Diamond axles, but I switched gears (pun intended) when I realized that you could buy the builder parts and weld the housing together yourself for a fraction of the cost. It’s all of the pieces inside of the housing that made it hard to avoid high costs. 1-ton axles are out there in someone’s back lot. Take a drive. You might get lucky like I did and find an old jacked up military blazer rusting away in a field.

Something else to note, and this is in my opinion, is that I don’t need these axles for my driving style. Had I not found them, I would have installed built FJ60 axles with no question. In fact, I worry that the sheer weight of these axles and tire combination may not be any stronger than a built FJ60, even though the previous owner installed 35 spline axles. They might be the strong chrome molly, but we don’t know. They are rusty, so likely not, but CM rusts, too, and this truck appeared to be a swamp bog truck. With an NA diesel, I doubt that it had much stress. In fact, I’d guess that it got towed out more then it made it through the bogs, which were closed down in the early 2000’s, which I highly support. The engine was toast, smoking like a 1970’s Peterbuilt with 2 million miles. The owner was tired of trying to get it to start. Time will tell a different story, and hopefully it’s a good one to tell.

 

[White Stripe]

One guy I worked with ordered a custom diamond rear axle. From what he told me he had difficulty getting updates on the order. He often complained of lack of communication. It took 2 years to get the axle if i recall. It looked really nice though when he got it. Unfortunately they got the width wrong and it was 2" off on width. He installed it anyway. Without knowing your powerplant or drivetrain it's hard to make a axle recommendation.

 

[cruisermatt]

These threads always crack me up, it seems like these guys never actually ever do anything that would even break a stock Toyota shaft

 

[Mike Shull]

These threads always crack me up, it seems like these guys never actually ever do anything that would even break a stock Toyota shaft

I broke one. It wasn’t mine so we don’t know the history. 42”x16.5 swappers (or whatever height came in that width in 2005) at heavy throttle, bounced once. Snap.

Update: tbi sbc, sm420, 4:88 gears, Detroit rear, ARB front.