Builds Scraps, My Slow 45/80 Build (1 Viewer)

[Tank5]

You could change the location of your hood drop down support and that might give you another inch or so.

That is a good ideah. I was considering doing that since the support rod falls out of the catch sometimes with rough driving. I would not want it bouncing around on the SC or hitting the belt.

 

[Delancy]

How's it happen that you've plotted a relatively unique build, nestled the engine in the chassis, body around, yet there's only 20 posts in this thread?

Hell, a clicking birf thread in the 80 forum will be page 6 in two days, and (semi-self loathingly stated) I can manage 10 pages before ever taking delivery of a project, none of which are as in depth as this.

Prolly too late to debate the merits of I6 versus V8, now....

That looks bad ass, perched on plywood..... but obligatory, so I'm getting out of the way, now:

You should've run a 1HZ, H55F, BF1A and been done..... ha!

Anyhow, semi continuation from other thread and messaging, although it'll seem out of place, since no previous discussion has been had, here.

Disclaimer- my expressions of knowledge are 'academic' in nature, loosely defined, having now spent a few years trying to achieve a very specific goal, that includes an H15X and/or HFXA.

The only deravitives I know of with the combination you're discussing (2UZ/H151F) place the shifter behind the intermediate plate, via 36107-60030, which Rick D confirmed to be 7" further aft than the common H151F.

(Disregard the base relation to the pan, as it's meant for H55F/BF1A, but note where shifter is in relation to intermediate plate.)

Certainly electronic implications, but the H151F equipped UZJ100 appears to have been HF2A equipped. As we know, any HFXA will bolt to any H15X, but I don't think will work with the HF1A you have, because of the shifter orientation.

If you keep what you've got,can swap the H151F shifter to 7X, which, I'm assuming to be more comfortable in a 40s driving position. Don't know about the transfer shifter, but betting it could be cobbled to work, or swapped for a 7X derivative, that's, again, nothing more than a more modern 40.

On the transfer case length, should that become an issue and you need to extend, an HF2A(V) housing will mate to the HF1A, output shaft will swap, and, removing the (V) and tossing in trash where they all belong, can extend the rear output flange by 5" for very little effort and/or money.

 

[cruisedeisel]

Is there anyway you can clock that throtle body via a custom clocking plate? I mean if its just 4 bolts and a hole. Should be easy?

 

[Tank5]

How's it happen that you've plotted a relatively unique build, nestled the engine in the chassis, body around, yet there's only 20 posts in this thread?

Are you suggesting I am not sharing enough of my build or that there is not much member comments?

Prolly too late to debate the merits of I6 versus V8, now....

The other motor options would not matter that much to me. I picked the 2uz because I have one in my tundra and I love it. I thought it would be cool in and 80 and cooler in a 40. The SC just adds some icing. I building it because it is what I want and think would be cool. I'm definitely not going to change my mind now. Although I did almost go with a 1fz because I was afraid of the wiring involved in making the 2uz work. Then I decided to man up and go with the 2uz.

 

[Tank5]

Delancy, I appreciate you posting that information here. I see what you are talking about with the shifter further back on the 2uz/h151. Do you know what series it came out of. I went back and looked at Woytovich's thread and see that his shifter is behind the intermediate plate also.

I took some pictures of where the shifter rests with my H151 in respect to cab positioning. I have not set seats in the cab to see what the fit relationship is like but I suppose I should. I think the shifters will work fine where they are but I do not want to move them back an farther. Looks like I will be keeping my H151 and replacing the input shaft and bearing retainer.

 

[Tank5]

Is there anyway you can clock that throtle body via a custom clocking plate? I mean if its just 4 bolts and a hole. Should be easy?

Cruisedeisel I am not sure I understand what you mean by "clocking." In order to get the throttle body to mount to the SC I had an adapter made that rotated it approximately 120 degrees. Is that what you are referring to? Here is a picture of the adapter installed on the SC.

 

[cruisedeisel]

That's exactly what I mean. Google the words "clocking plate".

 

[cruisedeisel]

Or maybe a clocking plate would have a ring of holes so you could change the mounting by 10 degrees at a time ish. Sorry If I my english was off.

 

[Tank5]

Or maybe a clocking plate would have a ring of holes so you could change the mounting by 10 degrees at a time ish. Sorry If I my english was off.

Your English is good. The adapter that I had made, pictured above, already allows the throttle body to sit as low and close to the SC as possible. I had to leave enough room for the plug that plugs into the throttle body and have it clear the SC. It is rotated as far as possible already.

What would be nice is if Bullet would make a new intake that angled away from the SC and direct it toward the airbox in the right corner of the engine bay. Wishful thinking. I believe what I have will work.

 

[Tank5]

The SC nose cone pulley changes the route of the drive belt which creates a conflict with radiator cross over pipe. I purchased a second cross over pipe and cut 2.75 inches out of it and had it welded back together. This is what Bullet suggested to fit the SC. I don't have it installed yet but here is what it looks like.

 

[Broski]

Nice build keep it coming

 

[Tank5]

I am waiting on body mount bushing before I can finalize the position of the front cross member. So I decided to cut up my drivers side header while I wait.

The power steering shaft appears to line up perfectly with the hole for the steering column in the firewall. The only conflict is the header, it will not let the steering shaft come up high enough to line up with the column. So I cut the tube of that was causing the issue. There is enough material in the pipe I cut that as long as get the angle correct i believe I can weld it back so it clears and not have to buy any pipe.

Some pictures of the destruction. I will add the finished product after I get it welded up.

 

[pocholin]

were did you find that belhousing for the tranny I wish to do the same want to replace the 1zf-fe for a 5.8 tundra engine

 

[Tank5]

I bought the 2 part bell housing from Partsoug. It shipped from the middleast somewhere but I received the parts in one week. Faster than I get parts from some vendors in the states. The part numbers and cost are below. Shipping was around $130.00

3101160010 HOUSING SUB-ASSY, Toyota 1 190.40$
3111160311 HOUSING, CLUTCH Toyota 1 338.02$

That Tundra motor is a big motor. Are you planing to your build in an 80 series?

 

[pocholin]

no in a fzj70 manual tranny that i building in venezuela

 

[Tank5]

I dropped the header off to get it welded up after cutting the original pipe into 4 pieces and playing with the angles I was able to piece it back together. The rough mock up looks like the steering shaft will have enough clearance to line up with the stock position on the 45 tub.

 

[Tank5]

Success, a little one anyway. I got the header back from getting welded up and it fits leaving enough clearance for the steering shaft. I will eventually clean them up and recoat them but for now on to the next fix.

Do you think the welds look substantial enough to hold up long term? Size wise they are not that much different than some of the original welds on header. Just curious as I would prefer to have them beefed up prior to coating if someone thinks I might have an issue down the road.

 

[boots4]

If that's been tig welded I'd be plenty satisfied.

 

[Tank5]

If that's been tig welded I'd be plenty satisfied.

It was tig welded. I appreciate the response. I would prefer to leave it alone so I like your answer.

 

[Tank5]

I gave the project a name, SCRAPS. If you want to know, I explained it in the edit of the first post.