Build 94 Toyota Pickup on 94 80 series chassis
- Thread starter HiCruiser LandLux
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- Thread starter
- #82
Yep they do attach differently
The two mounting holes with bolts on the hyperflex arms are bushed, the front is just a solid spacer for the bracket. They use the OEM mounting holes on the axle
And again to reiterate my before and after comparo, the truck had 18" of FLEX before lifting the rear wheel. Swapped to the HyperFlex arms and gained 10" of FLEX before lifting the rear wheel, ending up with 28" of front end FLEX before lifting a rear tire.
- Thread starter
- #83
So back to progress instead of the arms, I started thinking about the cooling system. I wanna run a big proper double pass radiator with Spal fans. I measured clearance from the crank pulley to the front core support. It wasn't good, only 4" of clearance. Narrowest fans are 2" and narrowest radiator Id feel comfortable running is at least 2.5" thick. After Flexing the truck out I decided I could drop the engine quite a bit as well as push it back. So I cut the motor mounts and dropped it down
Easiest route for mock-up was move the transmission back by sliding the T case mount back one bolt hole, Will fix that properly later.
Top of the intake was above the Cab cowl pinchweld, now its comfortably below that.
Much much happier with the design if the new mounts, they look less stupid and are much much stronger. Engine still.has plenty of clearance to the axle and got dropped nearly 3" now I have a comfy 5 3/4" of radiator clearance
Easiest route for mock-up was move the transmission back by sliding the T case mount back one bolt hole, Will fix that properly later.
Top of the intake was above the Cab cowl pinchweld, now its comfortably below that.
Much much happier with the design if the new mounts, they look less stupid and are much much stronger. Engine still.has plenty of clearance to the axle and got dropped nearly 3" now I have a comfy 5 3/4" of radiator clearance
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Any new updates?
Impressive build so far.
More weight will make coils flex more.
Looking forward to watching the build.
More weight will make coils flex more.
Looking forward to watching the build.
- Thread starter
- #86
Alrighty gents after a year hiatus I have returned. Life gave me quite a few curveballs this year, career change from vintage car mechanic to building boats, schedule change, family drama, and all the other fun stuff life throws at ya. Unfortunately progress up to this month has been glacially slow. With the truck spending a majority of the year being in the corner used as a shelf
Over the summer I did ALOT of wheeling and camping in my 4th gen v8 4runner, and it had me second guessing some of my decisions. I liked the convenience of awd, So I ended up selling my r150f and built 4.7 mini truck t case. I want fulltime 4wd, no locking hubs and something beefier then mini truck parts.
After selling the drivetrain I went in to finally finish the body mounts, instead I ended up redoing all but the center mounts. Played with cab height, trying to clear the powertrain while also not looking like a redneck'd 6" body lift job
With the mounts, I went simple, 1/8" plate steel, simple shapes, all done in "cad" (I'm simple and use cardboard for all this if you couldn't tell)
At this point I said damn it all and ended up deciding to redo the motor mounts AGAIN, mainly because the new transmission t case will be an interesting fit. (They were ugly too)
For my cab mount bushings, I'm trying something interesting. 3d printed 85A stiffness polyurethane. 1/2" thick, 2.5" wide. Gonna use 2 of these with a large fender washer to sandwich the mount plates. Interested to see how it holds up.
Over the summer I did ALOT of wheeling and camping in my 4th gen v8 4runner, and it had me second guessing some of my decisions. I liked the convenience of awd, So I ended up selling my r150f and built 4.7 mini truck t case. I want fulltime 4wd, no locking hubs and something beefier then mini truck parts.
After selling the drivetrain I went in to finally finish the body mounts, instead I ended up redoing all but the center mounts. Played with cab height, trying to clear the powertrain while also not looking like a redneck'd 6" body lift job
With the mounts, I went simple, 1/8" plate steel, simple shapes, all done in "cad" (I'm simple and use cardboard for all this if you couldn't tell)
At this point I said damn it all and ended up deciding to redo the motor mounts AGAIN, mainly because the new transmission t case will be an interesting fit. (They were ugly too)
For my cab mount bushings, I'm trying something interesting. 3d printed 85A stiffness polyurethane. 1/2" thick, 2.5" wide. Gonna use 2 of these with a large fender washer to sandwich the mount plates. Interested to see how it holds up.
- Thread starter
- #87
Ended up selling the 4runner recently, and picked up a first gen Taco as a daily. Better yet it came with a flatbed I wanted for the project lol
Aluma brand bed in damn near perfect shape. Gonna change the headache rack and probably shorten it, but a major score and big progress. Only paid $50 for a dented up color matched bed for the tacoma too.
Went dummy simple for bed mounts, just cut, bend, weld. Waiting on some dies, but want to toss a dimple die or two on these so they look a tad fancier. Used the lift to hold the bed at a height I liked it at before cutting these out.
I was debating some reinforcements, either mount to mount or tubular back to the rail, but after welding em on I'm convinced they're as strong as the factory pickups bed mounts were so wont be spending time on that.
Bed fit, using a toyota bottlejack to make sure the rear is at the right height. Beyond happy with how its all sitting, plus the aluminum flatbed was always the dream for this thing.
Aluma brand bed in damn near perfect shape. Gonna change the headache rack and probably shorten it, but a major score and big progress. Only paid $50 for a dented up color matched bed for the tacoma too.
Went dummy simple for bed mounts, just cut, bend, weld. Waiting on some dies, but want to toss a dimple die or two on these so they look a tad fancier. Used the lift to hold the bed at a height I liked it at before cutting these out.
I was debating some reinforcements, either mount to mount or tubular back to the rail, but after welding em on I'm convinced they're as strong as the factory pickups bed mounts were so wont be spending time on that.
Bed fit, using a toyota bottlejack to make sure the rear is at the right height. Beyond happy with how its all sitting, plus the aluminum flatbed was always the dream for this thing.
- Thread starter
- #88
Back with another rapid fire update. Been working on this thing for at least an hour a day no matter what and that's been pushing me forward significantly. Did the rear bed mounts up quick. Finalized all the body mounts and, for the first time, THE BODY IS FULLY BOLTED DOWN!
Look at that Handsome face. Since this is where the body has ended uo height wise I decided to pull the springs to get measurements for the bump stops and check tire clearances.
Front shocks bottom out as pictured, rear has maybe another 1/2", I'll probably lower the shock mount 3/4" and move the bump down a 1/4" below that as to not bottom it out. Front bump extensions will be sizable, but it is what it is.
With 1" wheel spacers the 37s on 17x8.5 wheels clear full lock at full bump both ways. Less then 1/2" clearance on the cab but I'll take it!
Decided to flex out the front end without springs, to check clearance on both sides with it flexxed out. Pretty decent flex, especially for no spring to push the axle further down.
No rub either side in the front full flex/ full lock with the body mounted. Total win. Now onto finishing the rear then powertrain fitment.
Look at that Handsome face. Since this is where the body has ended uo height wise I decided to pull the springs to get measurements for the bump stops and check tire clearances.
Front shocks bottom out as pictured, rear has maybe another 1/2", I'll probably lower the shock mount 3/4" and move the bump down a 1/4" below that as to not bottom it out. Front bump extensions will be sizable, but it is what it is.
With 1" wheel spacers the 37s on 17x8.5 wheels clear full lock at full bump both ways. Less then 1/2" clearance on the cab but I'll take it!
Decided to flex out the front end without springs, to check clearance on both sides with it flexxed out. Pretty decent flex, especially for no spring to push the axle further down.
No rub either side in the front full flex/ full lock with the body mounted. Total win. Now onto finishing the rear then powertrain fitment.
- Thread starter
- #89
After finishing my bed mounts I kept looking at them and feeling like they weren't "professional" enough. I used that as an excuse to finally pick up some dimple dies I've been wanting forever. Drilled a crap load of holes out to 3/4" and went to town
I used the Harbor Freight punchout kit to press em, I'm too impatient for bolting and I think it would have been tough with the 1/8" material. Super easy to die these, but I had to continuously reapply the anti seize every other hole or the dies wanted to gall up.
Turned out much better then I hoped, I think it has that fancy touch now lol. I may get a larger die and do the inner sides once or twice, we will see. I didn't feel like getting under the truck to do bump stops so I decided to finally finish motor mount redesign #2
Went back and forth on how to get both sides perfectly offset then it hit me. 90 degree V8 means just use a 45 degree welding magnet. Genius level stuff lol
Finished product. Plan on having the frame rail side bracket be slotted to allow the motor to be slid and back forth slightly for easier mounting. Again, gonna be using the 2.5" round 0.5" poly bushings for these mounts so that every nounting bush on the truck is similar
Motor mounts are damn near perfect with each other. Itll make lining it up in the rig super super easy. Gonna use some grade 8 1/2" bolts and BIG fender washers to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.
I used the Harbor Freight punchout kit to press em, I'm too impatient for bolting and I think it would have been tough with the 1/8" material. Super easy to die these, but I had to continuously reapply the anti seize every other hole or the dies wanted to gall up.
Turned out much better then I hoped, I think it has that fancy touch now lol. I may get a larger die and do the inner sides once or twice, we will see. I didn't feel like getting under the truck to do bump stops so I decided to finally finish motor mount redesign #2
Went back and forth on how to get both sides perfectly offset then it hit me. 90 degree V8 means just use a 45 degree welding magnet. Genius level stuff lol
Finished product. Plan on having the frame rail side bracket be slotted to allow the motor to be slid and back forth slightly for easier mounting. Again, gonna be using the 2.5" round 0.5" poly bushings for these mounts so that every nounting bush on the truck is similar
Motor mounts are damn near perfect with each other. Itll make lining it up in the rig super super easy. Gonna use some grade 8 1/2" bolts and BIG fender washers to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.